when i did it i had a hell of a time both disconnecting the half shaft as well as getting the trans to reconnect to it.

i think i may have wound up unbolting it and removing it instead of trying to leave it on the block and pulling the trans off of it, or i left it connected to the trans and unbolted it from the block and disconnected it once it was off the car.

 

Shit, I just realized that I overlooked the right half shaft. How in the hell does that come out? I'm glad you said something, since I've been wondering what I'd forgotten. Doh!

 

The halfshaft and tube can stay in the car. I'm in the process of that job now and the tranny came away from the halfshaft. Of course, it was still lubed up pretty well because it's only been 2 years since I did the same job. Make sure all of the bolts are out of the tranny. Depending on the year I think, there is a 15mm bolt going in from the starter side near the oil pan.

 

There is 1 pita bolt a little bit above the axle tube that holds the engine and trans together. it goes in from the opposite direction as the other ones so you can hardly see it unless you are looking from the perfect angle. I always forget that one.

 

Got that one, and all the other bolts as far as we could tell.

 

On one of the doh moments, just realized that I have the Saab 9000 hardcopy manual transmission manual with the removal procedures and bolt layouts.

 

Haha, now you tell me this. Well, at least now we have yet another resource at our disposal. I still think its got something to do with the right side axle at this point in the game.

 

Got the starter unbolted?

 

That was unbolted, yes. Figured out it was just in need of a good bit of persuasion as I recall. Its out now. The next challenge is getting it lined back up, which we did not accomplish last time. Not entirely sure what killed the old trans (perhaps lack of fluid, as it felt lighter than it should have), but there were heat marks on the old pressure plate, so swapped in a better one that was on hand.

 

Bump for additional info. The new trans is in, but there is a gap at the bottom of the trans and the top part is fairly flush. The intermediate shaft also has 1/2 inch of the spines exposed. We have not put the subframe on, so its being held by the support beam.

Any suggestions or are we on the right track and just need to button things up?

 

Bump for additional info. The new trans is in, but there is a gap at the bottom of the trans and the top part is fairly flush. The intermediate shaft also has 1/2 inch of the spines exposed. We have not put the subframe on, so its being held by the support beam.

Any suggestions or are we on the right track and just need to button things up?

To add to that, the intermediate shaft does turn the companion shaft when you spin the right wheel. What else could be going on here to prevent a clean install?

 

lol. sucks don't it? Lining up the clutch input shaft, the engine to the tranny, and the stupid intermediate shaft all at the same time is a nightmare.

THIS is exactly the reason that every single time I do a tranny......the engine comes out with it and I do the separation / bolt-together on the floor of my garage.

I have done it ONCE with the engine in the car and to get it, I had to find another set of hte long bolts which hold the engine to the tranny, cut the heads off, notch them for a flathead screwdriver and thread them into engine to use as guide posts for sliding the tranny into place.

Make sure the dowel pins that are pressed into the block, are seated fully in the aluminum bellhousing; they will keep everything from seating fully.

 

lol. sucks don't it? Lining up the clutch input shaft, the engine to the tranny, and the stupid intermediate shaft all at the same time is a nightmare.

THIS is exactly the reason that every single time I do a tranny......the engine comes out with it and I do the separation / bolt-together on the floor of my garage.

I have done it ONCE with the engine in the car and to get it, I had to find another set of hte long bolts which hold the engine to the tranny, cut the heads off, notch them for a flathead screwdriver and thread them into engine to use as guide posts for sliding the tranny into place.

Make sure the dowel pins that are pressed into the block, are seated fully in the aluminum bellhousing; they will keep everything from seating fully.

Funny you should mention pulling the engine. We briefly discussed it, and then didn't do it that way. Now sort of wishing we had. I like the idea of the bolts. Might have to try that.

 

I've done this several time by myself on the floor of a garage. Sucks, but I feel like a god when I'm done.

There is a dowel (or a minion of Satan, as I call it) located at about the 9 o'clock position ( as looking at the clutch straight on). It will be binded up and cause a hell of a time. You'll need a large breaker bar to get it undone.

 

I've done this several time by myself on the floor of a garage. Sucks, but I feel like a god when I'm done.

There is a dowel (or a minion of Satan, as I call it) located at about the 9 o'clock position ( as looking at the clutch straight on). It will be binded up and cause a hell of a time. You'll need a large breaker bar to get it undone.

Those stupid things didn't cause a whole lot of trouble on the way out. Its getting it back together that is being a PITA.

 

Ok so we sort of solved it, although I did (like a moron) manage to crack the oil pan. Now another problem to be solved.

Anyway, VI009DZ, we used your idea of bolts. Although we did modify slightly and just run them through with the heads on, with enough bolt length to pull the trans straight back and off the engine. Then it was back on evenly from there, but I somehow managed to crack the ear on the oil pan that attaches to the trans. Stupid mistake, but I think we have another to put on.

Even though we had a tiny oil leak, we did manage to get the car to a point where it could be test started and checked to make sure the rotating assembly was good. Car hadn't run in over 2 years and needed persuasion, but it coughed to life with a puff of nasty smelling smoke.

Now we have to modify the line for the clutch. The trans we got came with a hose we could not remove (stuck to hard line), and it didn't look anything like the original, which is crimped onto the master cylinder hard line. There is a solution though, involving NG900 hydraulic clutch conversion parts. Oliversexpedition found a bag of parts in a box, and with a little ingenuity it can be made to fit. I'll post a photo of the final product.

 

Ok so we sort of solved it, although I did (like a moron) manage to crack the oil pan. Now another problem to be solved.

Don't feel bad, dude. I did it last summer when I replaced the trans. I think it's a critical rite of passage for DIYers.