I had to remove the rear seats, removed all fixings for the door panel then pulled the panel away from the bottom rear of the door and reached up inside to pull the "arm" thats connects to the locking motor, have fun..

 

I know this is stupid... but any chance you just aren't pulling hard enough on the outside? the inside could have child locks on that would make it not work but on the outside i know on my gf's 9k the right side rear door requires a real hard pull (almost think you will pull the handle off). Don't worry about pulling it off though as if you do that will at least allow you to pop the latch manually. or take the latch on the inside apart and try that way..

 

Its the little plastic clip holding the linkage to the door that normaly breaks so the motor cant pull or push the lock open.

As for pulling the handle off its bolted from the inside so would need some effort to do this.

 

Love those 9000 handles / locks. Of all the great stuff designed on those cars, the handles and locks suck wicked haaad.

 

When the door handles go bad on the 9000, I've found that pushing in on the door and pulling out on the handle will help.

 

Agreed...My driver side door wont open unless I push on the frame directly above the handle.

 

I took the rear passenger door handle off my parts car with a hammer to get the door open. Took bout 30 mins to beat it off those things are solid metal

 

Doors stuck

Had the same problem- With the window down, remove the outer window seal on the door and look down at the mechanism with a flash light. You'll have to snag the arm on the little gizmo that releases the door latch. My mechanical child proof lock "switch" on the door near the latch was frozen between the two positions. That Parts Blaster PB kinda liquid wrench stuff works pretty good. Loosen it up with that, then white Lithium grease.

 

alrighty, i finally got around to looking into this: i spent 3 hours yesterday afternoon in 20-degree weather with a -10 windchill fixing the problem. i had to pull all the crap out of my hatch area and lay it on a pallet in my driveway. I then crawled in the hatch and over the back seats to remove the lower portions of the seats. then I pulled out the seat backs, and put all of it in another heap in my yard. I then was able to yank off the door panels and I pulled out the stupid foam sheet so i could see better. i was stunned at how much dust there was accumulated inside the door itself! looks like i'll have to get some baby wipes or something and clean everything down before i put it back together. on the passenger side, i found a pivot point on the lock linkage had broken (just a little plastic rivet) and the linkage had jammed, so that it wouldn't unlock anymore. i just yanked out that part of the linkage, since i didn't have an extra rivet. so the passenger side rear door can't be manually unlocked, but the power locks still work. the driver's side was weirder. i had everything pulled apart, and couldn't find anything wrong, but the door still wouldn't open from the inside. i had my brother yank on the door from the outside and it sprung right open, like nothing had ever happened. wth? i didn't even do anything to it, but now it opens from the outside, so no big deal. i guess something's screwed up in the child safety latch, so it won't allow me to open it from the inside. oh well. now im trying to decide if i want to put my rear seats/door panels back in, or strip everything down? any ideas how much weight i'd save by stripping everything from the back of the front seats back? except for the headliner, of course, which i will hopefully have pulled and sueded this week. thanks for all your help!

 

anybody know why my sab 9-3 estate rear hatch or fuel filler wont open on the key i have checked the fuse

 

Friends used to say you have to open it like cj from San Andreas. Pulled the back seats once with the doors shut also. I believe it was Mike who said it ..push the door hard by the latch and pull the handle. Wd40 in the latch makes it work so easy it will blow your mind