Seeing the problems Saab had with the 6 updates, I'd stay away from the catch can and figure out the PCV system. I can go look at my hoses tomorrow and see which way the check valves are going. Can't remember off the top of my head.

Do you have all new PVC parts to install?

 

I didnt order another PCV kit, as my update #6 is "only" 40kmi old. Now that I think about the actual mileage... Maybe it is time for a new one. However, this one didnt appear to work when new..

The hoses feel pretty stiff still, and last time I blew through the check valves they worked ok. I was planning to clean and inspect this one and re-use. But you're right, 50 bucks is a small price to pay for this whole effort to work out properly.

Or buy a big electric vacuum pump and catch can, plug up all the holes except for the valve cover pcv and the dipstick tube, and just overkill the heck out of this thing.


Thanks for checking yours out for me. These things are soo complicated, especially considering the old school versions where it's just a hole and a filter.

 

 

That's a good start, sally, but the updated version has 2 more check valves and a 'T' fitting.

Oh, BTW, I am hoping to remove the coolant lines to the throttle body as well.

The pcv update involves running these coolant lines and one of the pcv hoses through an insulator. Perhaps I should reinstall these afterall?

 

If I can remember I'll have a pic tomorrow if you still need it. Had a wedding today.

I never installed the insulator, looked like a huge PITA.

 

It sure was!

Much easier with the engine out.

 

Any confirmation on this?

-The way I think it's supposed to go is that the checkvalve that goes to the new "T" flows from the case ventilation oil reservoir on the back of the engine towards the "T", and eventually to the turbo inlet piping. Reservoir--->new T--->turbo inlet

-The other new check valve I think flows towards the dipstick tube. Turbo inlet--->new dipstick tube port.

Setup this way, it looks to me like when there's vacuum on the head, the only inlet into the system is via the drain pipe to the sump from the vent system reservoir, which would suck oil into it. (?)

Here's a link to the official instructions courtesy of Nick over at Genuinesaab.com: http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files2/tsb210-2418 ed4 en.pdf

Unfortunately, the direction of flow isn't specifically marked (as stated earlier in this thread).

Right now I'm having an issue with a fresh rebuilt forged/balanced/blueprinted Viggen engine that shows low oil pressure after high rpm running and a long coast down...like it's sucking all the oil into the head, or holding a vacuum up in the top end that's starving the pump; reviewing the vent system.

 

do you even need band-aid #6 if you're running forged pistons? I've skipped the pcv system completely when using b2x4 blocks in t7 cars, never been a problem (plug the tube in the pan and the dipstick, run the valve cover nipple to the pipe just like t5 cars) My understanding is that the real need for the pcv kit was due to the cheesy b2x5 rings. But I focus more on daily driver cars, sounds like you're building something that's gonna get pushed a bit harder

 

I really don't know. I'll have to dig around and see if I saved any of the old original hoses.

The thing is that there's no problem as long as it's driven like a normal daily driver.

Yesterday I tried some things, reversed the checks, let it idle with the dipstick off, a bunch of stuff. I'm not convinced anymore that there isn't a real issue elsewhere. The only thing I didn't double check from the machine shop was balance shaft internal bearing clearances because they put them in, also had the shafts polished...so I'm not sure how much metal they took off. *sigh* So I may just pull it today/tomorrow and redo that. I posted a Wanted add to see about getting some new shafts already.

Btw, reversing that top check valve to allow flow out of the dipstick tube made it build up a lot of vacuum and actually made it sort of hoot, while sucking air past the dipstick seal.

 

Interesting. Maybe PCV #6 is too effective if you dont have the b235 piston rings allowing lots of blow-by. The large hose leading to the pre-turbo piping probably sees a lot of vacuum when boosting; maybe there is not enough blow-by to feed it. Maybe a restriction could be put on that line?

Thanks for checking the direction of that check valve for me. My theory is that it is to be a secondary path for oil to flow to the oil pan so the check valve should face torwards the dipstick tube.

I'm beginning to think that the dipstick tube line should be capped.

 

No problem.

What I'm thinking, the internals sometimes are higher than outside pressure and sometimes lower. A plain old breather like original is okay with that, but adding the checks, they're specifically allowing outside air into the system only via the dipstick port, and allowing gas to leave only via the oil canister on the back of the block. I wonder if it has to do with condensation? What would that change, cold air condenses in the dipstick tube instead of the oil canister?

Anyway, I gave up and pulled the engine again yesterday. The balance shafts were scored, I think there was just too much clearance after the polish (thinking about it, I never gave the shop specs and they never asked, heh, tiny little oversight) so I'll be replacing shafts. I don't think my issue was PCV related.