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Opinions on buying a '87 9000 Turbo?

12K views 163 replies 16 participants last post by  hondafanatic17  
#1 ·
Okay so I've been looking into buying a c9000 for a while now and i recently came arcoss a 1987 9000 Turbo with a spoiler, sunroof, leather, automatic, and wih only 92K miles for 995 dollars. I haven't seen it in person yet just pictures. Its grey and I don't know what the interior looks like. What do you guys think? Should I get it, upon a test drive and seeing if it is mechanically sound. What motor would be in a '87? I have been dying for a stick shift 9K, but I know the older ones are harder to find now so is it worth getting to stick a stick shift in later? I just needs some opinions to make my decision.
 
#2 ·
Those have the 2.0 liter motors opposed to the 2.3 liter B234 that's in the 91-98. They also have distributors instead of DIC's. The ones I've seen of that generation have the 3-spoke steering wheel if that does anything for you... I'm not a fan. The trans swap is possible, But I'd go for the 91-92's in terms of C9000's. (prettier front end, B234, etc.)
 
#6 ·
Hmm.. I might like the distributor and wires more than the DIC, I have been having a really hard time locating a new spare one. Yeah it has the 3 spoke wheel, I dont care for it much either but I have a steering wheel adapter and a Momo wheel laying around that fits a 9000 somewhere in the garage!

The 1991/1992 is more desirable as far as c9000s go, but a 1987 would be a nice classic to have. Not as much potential to make it fast, but more "classicy" too. If it runs and the body is in good shape I say go for it! Mechanical stuff can be fixed, and interior parts swap from different years.
Yeah besides a few minor mods I'd prolly leave it stock, just keep it a clean 9000. As long as its not a dog on the road I'm fine with it usually(I used to drive a Metro so if its faster than it, I'm cool)

Don't know where you are, but up here in the great northeast the back half of the early 9k liked to basically rot right off. Biggest weak points were rockers under the rear door area (poke them with your finger, the undercoating is real thick, looks good outside but no metal left underneath) and basically anything behind the rear wheels. Don't get me wrong, I'd love a clean 86-90 9k, you just need to closely inspect the underneath
THANK YOU! For that tip to look for rust!, The two newer body style 9000's I bought where rust free except near the windshield. I will check it carefully for rust.
You posted this at SaabCentral, too, right?

If it's not rusty, do it.

Automatics have a bad reputation, but many of their problems can be easily fixed. Replacements are generally easy to find, and often cost less than a clutch kit you'd need for a manual trans.

That said, I did an auto-to-manual swap on an '87 9kt about 10 years ago. It's straightforward.

If you decide against it, please share details here so that somebody can save it!
Yes I will let you all know if I decide not to get it, but I'm 90 precent sure I want it. I reallize that older 9000's are getting harder to find so it might not be my dream classic but a manual swap would make it so. Question you might be able to answer do I need a manual from a classic 9000 or one from a newer body style work?

Thank You guys so much for your input on this its really helping me make my decision. I'm excited to go look at the car here this weekend!
 
#3 ·
The 1991/1992 is more desirable as far as c9000s go, but a 1987 would be a nice classic to have. Not as much potential to make it fast, but more "classicy" too. If it runs and the body is in good shape I say go for it! Mechanical stuff can be fixed, and interior parts swap from different years.
 
#4 ·
Don't know where you are, but up here in the great northeast the back half of the early 9k liked to basically rot right off. Biggest weak points were rockers under the rear door area (poke them with your finger, the undercoating is real thick, looks good outside but no metal left underneath) and basically anything behind the rear wheels. Don't get me wrong, I'd love a clean 86-90 9k, you just need to closely inspect the underneath
 
#5 ·
You posted this at SaabCentral, too, right?

If it's not rusty, do it.

Automatics have a bad reputation, but many of their problems can be easily fixed. Replacements are generally easy to find, and often cost less than a clutch kit you'd need for a manual trans.

That said, I did an auto-to-manual swap on an '87 9kt about 10 years ago. It's straightforward.

If you decide against it, please share details here so that somebody can save it!
 
#9 ·
Hated this era of 9000 after owning two of them.

If the rust doesn't kill them, the electrical gremlins will.

The 91-92 cars are far, far better in build quality....
What kind of electrical issues have you run into when you owned those 9000's? I've dealt with my fair share of puzzling issues with my newer 9000's, none of them stopped me from driving the cars, but all at once would have been enough reason to scrap the cars. I also understand that I am dealing with a 25 year old car so I know there are bound to be issues that pop up.

93 or older trans only. 94+ are all GM pattern transmissions
Okay thank you for clearing that up, just wanted to make sure.
 
#13 ·
Same here, well never owned a classic before, but I know what you mean. Reason I got into Saabs was my Uncles mint condition Aero 9K with 80K on it and he even gets the usual antics of the 9000's electric system. It's like buying a older Chevy/Dodge Truck and expecting it not to rust or have rust.
 
#14 ·
I've had 4 9ks and they've all had electrical issues. Brake lights that won't shut off, brake light fuses that keep blowing, short in the headlight housing, power lock issues, etc. Mechanically they've all been quite good.

Also, you're not risking much for $995 and with that low mileage I'd bet its in decent shape.
 
#15 ·
Dunno.. I LIKE the early 9ks I've had ALL 9000 variants the early 2 l engine ones were the most agile/ quickest.. By Far. Worst 9000 I owned was a 91 just junk, but then it could also have been that particular car.. wasn't willing to risk another one though
The early autoboxes were a bit fragile but then so were the 5 spds. There's NO stop light drag racing .. unless you like fixing transboxes.
I've had to rebuild both trans types.. more than once. It's a toss up as to which is more 'reliable'
Electrical issues are a Basic Saab Right. No news there,.. seriously.
My 100k mile 97 has ongoing electrical issues.. fix one, another 'pops' up.. never ending story.. If I had any hair left I'd be pulling it out.
Buy it and enjoy it.. or don't.
 
#17 ·
I'm going to test drive it this weekend. If it runs good and had a solid motor and body it's mine. I can't pass up a Saab for under a grand. Eventually down the line a 5 speed swap may be in mind. Just as long as the body is rust free or at least if there is only a little fixable rust I'm okay. I enjoy fixing cars up to their former glory so it shall be a project for me to just get this one in a true restored condition. Mods will prolly be just new radio, steering wheel and light window tint. I never owned a car that I haven't gotten the windows tinted.
 
#19 ·
my 91 9kt has been a nightmare. i've replaced everything on it. turbo, motor, trans, even broke a cam gear which messed the timing up. now i'm dealing with electrical problems. the only reason i haven't given up yet is because it's a rust free car up in the new england area and that would just be shameful.

but i still say do it
 
#20 ·
Yeah as long as it's mostly rust free I'm getting it. This weekend will I'll just be having a look and drive, i can't actually get it this weekend cause my buddy who said would give me a ride down to get it has to work. I'll take some pictures tomorrow of it so you guys can see it. The ones in the listing are really shitty quality. Yeah I'm pretty stoked for a classic 9k, I'm just hoping the interior isn't red or blue. I can really tell from the pictures what it is cause it's dark, I'm hoping it's grey or black. I have had two tan interior 9000s and I'm hoping for something different. I keep on forgetting to ask the guy what color the interior is.
 
#21 · (Edited)
#22 ·
Is the car in Michigan? There is a very similar post at Saab Central -- '87 9kt <100k <$1000.

I wonder if the two of you are looking at the same car...

Found an 87 9k - SaabCentral Forums
Nah it's in Red Lion, PA. I live up past Harrisburg. I went to see it today, it runs pretty good. Turbo seems strong, transmission shifts well. Looks like shit though, very dirty. There is not massive amounts of rust but there are little spots here and there that I can easily fix. Paint is shot in most areas but not surprised for a '87. Surpisingly there was quite a lot of service records through out the glove box(oh the wonderful glovebox) and the owners manual pouch. I'm pretty happy, we settled on 860 for the car due to it needing tires, battery, tune-up, and a major cleaning. I have some pictures I'll post later, I'll be bringing the car home next weekend. I dunno if I'll drive it or haul it. It ran good but I have to drive a hour and half and don't k ow if I wanna tempt it.
 
#23 ·
good deal. trailer it just to be safe. i've towed my 91 home twice this week for a grand total of 145.00 and that's for like 4 or 5 miles only. take the safe bet.
 
#24 ·
+1 on trailering it.

If the paint is just oxidized, you'll be surprised at how nice it can turn out.

Start making a list of stuff you need to fix and/or complete it!!
 
#25 ·
Yeah I just arranged to use a truck from my work next weekend and my friend who is going with is letting me use his trailer. Yeah I've still got my check list of stuff I need to get from when I bought my 96 CS, so far I interior/exterior wise I need a turn signal stalk, possibly floor mats the drivers side turn signal is broke so that give me a excuse to get the clear ones. Once cleaned it should be a very sharp 9k, the leather has no rips and the drivers seat is still very puffy. Running wise, I need a battery, and tires. Which I have already. I think I have two sets of wheels that will fit. A set of 15s that where on my CS and u don't know if they will fit or not but a set of 15 inch Soccer Ball rims.
 
#26 ·
So finally got sometime to upload the few pictures I took of it. Its not to bad of condition, needs some fixing up but I see potential.
Image

Image

The drivers door in the only one that has a messed up panel, headliner is still in good shape too, dash isn't cracked, and the leather just needs a good clean.
Image

I pulled up the window seal and the surface rust stops at the seal. That's the biggest spot of rust. There are a few bubbles here and there but are totally fixable.
 
#29 ·
Flush all the fluids, check over all the hoses, vacuum lines. Basically get it ready for inspection. Extreme interior detail, and start attacking the rust spots. Prolly roll with a couple primer for a month or so while I save up a 100-200 bucks for paint and clear. Dunno if I'll just repaint the whole car grey again or if I'll just do the spots that need new paint and reclear it. And gotta figure out what rims I wanna do. I really dislike the 15 spokes it currently has.
 
#30 ·
Good work; thanks for saving it! Interior seems to be in good shape. I do see some Leatherique in your future, though. :)

In summer 1998, I bought this cars twin brother. Got it for $2000 with a bad automatic trans; converted it to a 5-speed... put on a ton of miles over the years. Parked it in '05 with 280k+ miles, hoping to make it a race car "someday."

It was one of several 9000s that I scrapped it last summer. :(
 
#32 ·
Good work; thanks for saving it! Interior seems to be in good shape. I do see some Leatherique in your future, though. :)

In summer 1998, I bought this cars twin brother. Got it for $2000 with a bad automatic trans; converted it to a 5-speed... put on a ton of miles over the years. Parked it in '05 with 280k+ miles, hoping to make it a race car "someday."

It was one of several 9000s that I scrapped it last summer. :(
Anything wrong with it when you parked it? Yeah dude the leather need a cleaning but it's like brand new under that dirt. Drivers seat doesn't have even a single crack. I'll keep posting updates of this car to this thread. Gonna take it over to my local upholstery shop after it's all cleaned to have them do the drivers side door panel cloth. I'd do it myself but its pretty faded and should just be replaced with new material.
 
#33 ·
Yeah it's solid underneath, here and there are a few spots of rust but totally fixable. It's gonna be a sharp car in a few months. Hoping to do this one in the same amount of flip time that I did my 96 CS. I should prolly go into Saab-Flipping business. I'm pretty good at it lol.
 
#40 ·
some people on here have some kicking around. seen them for sale. 15's are easy enough to find but not so much the 16's. just speak up. im sure somebody will come up with a set if you show interest.
 
#41 ·
Thanks, by any chance would you be able to tell me what fog lights I need for this car? It has the little mounts for them installed on bumper but no lights. I think they are Hella brands but when i do searches on ebay or thesaabsite it brings up quite a few. I'd like to get the ones that came with the car from factory. Or in your opinion what would prolly be the best replacement for them since there is currently none on the car. It has the switch in the dash for them.