Saab moved to a full synthetic spec for 9-5 oil in '01 or '02, IIRC

I'm using Amsoil Eurospec 5w40. Given the sludge issue, and the fact that 9-5's tend to run higher oil temps than typical, I think synthetic, or at least semi-syn, is very important. (The lower the viscosity, the thinner the oil gets at high temps -- and somewhere Saab recommends 20w50 !! if the car is to operated in climates of 60 degrees F or higher)

 

You need to run synthetic if you only want to change your oil every 3-4 thousand. If you're dead set on non-synthetic be prepared to change your oil every thousand miles. Yes, these cars are that hard on oil.

As for viscosity, I find 40 weights work well in our engines. Sticking with non-synthetic look for a 15w-40 diesel oil as that will hold up to the harsh condition inside the engine better.

Again, I advise strongely against a non-synthetic oil.

 

Agree with every ounce of this. Why would you even think to do that. I use ELF 5W-40 Excellium LDX. I would stick with any of the well know proven 5W-40 fully synthetic oils that have been mentioned in this thread.

 

fyi elf blows. search my old threads that i have made.

 

I took your advice and searched your old post regarding use of Elf motor oil. I see you used it for 800 miles and developed a noise that you felt was from the valve train. You ultimately discovered that you had a stretched timing chain. I don't blame you for wanting to associate the change in oil with your problem at the time. However, I would think now that you've had time to change your timing chain you might reconsider blaming the oil.

 

I run Mobil 1 15w-50 Synthetic and before anybody starts the whole Mobil 1 horror story comment its got the ACEA A3 spec and it holds great pressure on my oil gauge.

 

I just think it's too thick, both when cold and hot. I prefer M1 5W-40 TDT, if you haven't tried it, give it a go once.

 

Good point about the B2x5 series motors versus the B2x4 series. I have a 99 9-3 SE so I have a B204 motor. That is also where my number for test specs come from which I'll post up here. The oil pressure reducing valve opens at 50 psi on the B2x4 series but I couldn't imagine the B2x5 series being that far off of that number. I would also ponder a guess that pressure numbers aren't far off either for the B2x5 series.

Still doesn't hurt to check the owners manual to see what it says about oil weights to use depending on climate. I woulda never seen that had I not double checked mine.

http://www.geocities.com/ng900set/Misc/oilpr_sensor.html

 

European Car Formula
Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFL)

If it's good enough for Chuck Andrews...

 

Amsoil has a quality marketing department, how much do you want to bet that this formula performs no differently(possibly the exact same formula) than regular amsoil?

 

Why should I care what Chuck Andrews likes? :?

 

Because Chuck has spent more time trying to figure out the oil sludge issues than anyone, certainly anyone outside of GM/Saab.

Chuck and Steve Goldberger are doing another seminar at SOC this year on the oil sludge issue, after the first one last year generated so much interest. I would recommend that you go.

 

I'm running 5-W-30 castrol syntec on my 04 9-5, I'm in the Northeast it's approx 10 dgrees out today , nice and toasty any comments or suggestions? I was thinking of going to 0w-30 Mobil 1, but I believe Castrol is just as good or better. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

 

If your going to use a Mobil 1 oil for your 9-5 then goto auto zone and pick up the Mobil 1 0w-40 european blend. It meets the A3 spec that saab wants in there oil. I'm running that right now and my pressure numbers are good.

 

I run german castrol 0W30 in all of my cars. It satisfies my needs.
Check out bobistheoilguy.com for some in depth oil tech talk.

 

I getting my oil changed this saturday. I use mobil 1 synthetic oil. Can i switch from mobil 1 to something different as long as it's synthetic oil?

What's the difference between semi synthetic and synthetic? Could i switch between the two if i wanted to or do i have to stick with one type so i don't damage the engine?

 

Stay full synthetic. Doesn't matter which brand of oil you use as long as its synthetic.

 

all in favor of this statement say I
IF YOU SAY nay you will kick out of this site

Its common sense use synthetic

 

Automotion reccomended Shell Rotella 15w/40 for my car.


I was over joyed to find out that it was 10 bucks a GALLON.

 

Automotion reccomended Shell Rotella 15w/40 for my car.

I was over joyed to find out that it was 10 bucks a GALLON.

Same stuff is in my 900.

I usually run the 9k on 10w30 Amsoil since its a summer only car.

 

The reason for my post is to find out if by using Castrol Syntec 5W-30 in my 04 saab 9-5 2.3T will actually be somewhat harmful to my engine. Please note these 2.3T on the Saab are notorious for sludge. I tend to think that synthetic oil will work well with most engines unless the manufacturer specifies a particular oil and grade and voidance of the warranty. I will be changing the oil every 5000 miles period. I will try and pick up some 0W-30 which is the recommended oil. Any thoughts?

 

I will try and pick up some 0W-30 which is the recommended oil. Any thoughts?

Try to pick up the stuff that says made in germany on the back.

 

Okay cool. Thanks for the info NahumCC.

 

Any of you guys ever send a sample in for analysis? Who do you like to use?

I've been running 15w-50 Mobil One, changing around 4k mi. or sooner if I notice the valve train starting to get a little louder. Never tested a sample though and I'm curious if that's too often/not often enough.

 

Well I've been running M1 5W-40 for a couple year now and my top end sounds like a finely oiled sowing machine. Could be that you're just paying closer attention to it now, the mind can play with you sometimes.

 

Just picked up some 0w-30 Castrol and plan on using that on the next oil change. At $6 a quart it aint cheap but I rather use the good stuff. What kind of filetrs is everyone using. I've been using the Fram tough Guard, but just picked up a Bosch, I figure with changes every 5000 miles it should be ok, anyone one have any preference?

 

I'm looking for that in the German version. Do you know any McParts chains that carry that? I'm in the DC suburbs.

 

I started with 10W/30 Mobil-1 as recommended by the owner's manual for my 2000lpt.

Then I switched to 0W/40 Mobil-1 European Formula when it was introduced. I noticed oil consumption issues at this time, possibly caused by the PCV fiasco.

Then I switched to 5W/40 Mobil-1 and continued to use this even after the bottle was changed by the Marketing Dept to read "Turbo Diesel Truck and SUV". I updated the PCV around the same time as this viscosity change and my oil consumption problem disappeared.

I have used Shell Rotella-T 5W/40 when Mobil-1 was not available. Less expensive but a Group III base stock - maybe it doesn't matter.

I recently changed again to ELF 5W/40NF. Less expensive than Mobil-1 and a Group IV base stock.

215,000 miles on my car with the original turbo! Vote "YES" for synthetic oils.

 

noxben and I are shifting to Rotella T syn this coming week.

 

Anyone ever hear of auto-rx. Read about it somewhere checked the website , wonder if the stuff really works. Anyone use this stuff? Any feedback?

 

i only run redline and i change it every 3,000 miles. i drive my car very hard and often have my exhaust glowing red on the street.