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JB weld? Thermostat housing?

10K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  adshaft  
#1 ·
So this broken stud for the thermo housing isn't budging; my vice grips just keep slipping off. I wanted to know that since theres enough stud left to use a guide to make sure the housing is lined up and I still have the bottom bolt could I put a dab of jb weld around the housing to seal it up? Ive heard of people using this stuff to seal up cracks in tranny cases so it should be able to handle this right?
 
#4 · (Edited)
It'll sound wierd but....the few of us with old british cars will recognize the trick (at least TR7's). you may have to repeat a few times.

Heat up the stud hot...real hot
Press a candle - yes a candle - on to the stud.
Watch the wax drip down all over the stud, hopefully seeping in to the block.
Try again to remove the stud.

Again, i didn't believe it until i tried it. Triumph TR7 studs, steel, are known to stick in the head - aluminum. This worked for me, but as I recall I had to do it a few times before it would budge.

If it doesn't work...well what have you lost but some time.

Andrew
 
#8 ·
The jb weld would not work in my opinion. You need to drill a hole and use a stud extractor, you can use a 90* adaptor or the flex line you mentioned. Then extract it with the extractor.

Can you get two nuts on it? Have you ruined the threads? You could have cut the head off with a dremal cut-off wheel and tried the double nut removal method, but if the threads are junk, that wont work.

Have you tried heating up that section with a torch? The aluminum should expand faster than the steel bolt and then it might come out.

Stuck studs suck! Good Luck,

John
 
#9 ·
yea I've been heating with the best I have - propane; I'm once my buddy gets heres I'm most likely shell out for a flex line and metric stud extractors.



I want my loan already my sanity needs another car
 
#10 ·
yea I've been heating with the best I have - propane; I'm once my buddy gets heres I'm most likely shell out for a flex line and metric stud extractors.

I want my loan already my sanity needs another car
you could prolly get away with some good liquid gasket maker and call it a day in all honesty. jb would would seal it up most likely but it would also seal it on there forever.
 
#14 ·
I'd prob secure the housing as best you can and then I'd go to a very close by garage and have them weld a nut onto the remaining exposed stud so they can remove it. They'll have better luck in heating the bolt and the housing to remove it than you with your propane torch. JB weld is great but not for this application, you need a bolt to securely fasten your housing. You'll eventually have to change that T-stat anyways so better nipping it in the butt now and get it over with. Just my opinion.
 
#17 ·
this is most likley true, should I possibly chisell the stud of then drill the hole so that I can tap it out? it seems the only way I could it the stud out would be to heat it red hot and I cant do that with the cars location
 
#18 ·
Get a dremal and cut a slot into the head and try a large screw driver. If that does not work, you could cut the head off and drill a hole for an extractor. If you could get two nuts on the stud, you could back it out that way.

Sounds like its really messed up and you are going to need to drill it and use a extractor or possibly even drill the entire bolt out and re-tap it.

You might want to take it to a shop that knows what they are doing as stud extracting is an art and sometimes better left up to the professionals.

If you destroy the head, you are screwed! good luck,

John
 
#19 ·
what the hell...I go out start drilling with a regular bit to get a pilot hole going and what happens? The fucking flexable extention for my drill breaks. I'm having a real hard time working being sick+diabetes is making my bloodsugars all over the place. saabkid37 are you sure that some RTV would seal it up enough for a temp fix?
 
#20 ·
Sorry to hear about your problem, I don't come baring good news. So I take it you cut off the remaining stud? If it is now flush with the head, forget about using an extractor. If it broke your bolt head initially and vise grips wouldn't turn it, extractors will certainly not work, it will only break the extractor tip into the bored hole. Extractors are efficient when seized studs are temperature heated properly. A propane torch won't cut it. Take it to a qualified mechanic. Don't mess around with your head. (engine head that is) :( Just what I would do.
 
#22 ·
no theres still some stud sticking out but I cant work anymore right now :(

Buy a dremal! They make bits for it too, no flex line would be needed, maybe, get the part warrantied or buy a new one.

That is why we said you might want to take it to a shop, stud extracting can be a difficult job at best! Good Luck,

John
I hear what your saying john and tomorrow I'll be talking to my shop of choice and seeing A. avaibility of getting it or B. having one the mechanics that I know well coming to housing to see what he can do.
 
#21 ·
Buy a dremal! They make bits for it too, no flex line would be needed, maybe, get the part warrantied or buy a new one.

That is why we said you might want to take it to a shop, stud extracting can be a difficult job at best! Good Luck,

John
 
#23 ·
Just a tip to the wise, if you break the tip of an extractor off in a bolt, the only way to remove it without it being super costly is with a dremel and a ceramic tile cutting bit. This has happened to me on a couple occasions and you'll go through a couple bits like 6.99 a pop, but it is the only thing that will burrow through that hardend steel.