[saabsbreakdown]

Possibly but I doubt it. Its probably something else. Like your warm up regulator. Make sure that has current to it when the car is running. You could try buying a new one, they suposidly run really great with a good warm up regulator.

Make sure its at operating temperature and set your mixture. Then rev it a bunch, drive it around town and if the idle drops really low its too rich, if the idle gets really high its too lean. If your happy with how rich it is and the idle is still high, you can turn it down with the air bleed screw. If the car drives, just keep your mixture adjustment tool in the glovebox and drive it everywhere, and just pull over and tweak it alot. Soon you'll master the ways of the force.

 

[JK]

The warmup regulator, as in the thing between the the #2 and #3 intake runners?

 

[saabsbreakdown]

No, thats the thermo time switch. That decides when to give the cold start injector power on cold starts. You should already have the cold start injector to a switch if you have any starting issues.

The warm up regulator is the thing screwed to the thermostat housing. It varies your control pressure acording to engine temperature, and they never work right

Rich when cold, leaner when warmed up. Because gas condensates on cold metal so you need more gas on warm up. Thats the idea but god knows what that thing is actually doing. A new adjustable one would be *so* nice.

 

[JK]

Hmmmm...I know exactly what you're talking about now. How do you test it? I can't find it in the Bosch FI and EM manual :-?

 

[saabsbreakdown]

To test the current just take off the connector (it will probably break) and hook a test light up.

To test the regulator itself you have to talk a saab shop into letting you borrow their fuel pressure guage. Score on the manual I wish I had one.

What the current to this warm up regulator does is help it warm up. The car can warm it up on its own, but it gets to its lean normal driving condition faster when its plugged in. If its not getting current you car will run like shit and be unpredictable, but when these things fail it can do the same thing.

More testing stuff and less reading! Get out there!

 

[JK]

Yes...blah! Testies!

 

[JK]

Update!!!

I spent about 1.5 hours fine tuning the car after buying a 3mm T-handle hex wrench this morning. After some substantial reading in the bosch K-Jetronic section of the Bosch EM/FI manual I took Quinn's advice and tuned it with the frequency valve unplugged. So right now my car is running essentially as a "K-basic" car rather than a "K-lambda" car. That's fine by me!

Results: I have the car idling at 900rpm (adjusted via the idle bleed screw), and the car seems to rev very well. I also cleaned the throttle plate and inside the TB; it was so gunked up that my presious idle adjustment became out of whack when I put things back together :lol:

So, I will go take a cruise in it and report back later!

 

[Palmer]

BURNOUTZ!~!!

REVLIMITERS!!!1!!!!UNO!!

Do it!

 

[saabsbreakdown]

I bet after a drive he will report his idle changed. This system is so sensitive to engine temperature. I think its because of the warm up regulator. I used to think it was the auxilary air valve but since mine is in the garage in a wine box I doubt it is causing any issues with my EMS

I'm glad you did it this way, it is the way of the true K-Jet master!

 

[JK]

I made sure the car was good and hot before I tinkered

BTW, the aux air valve on my car seems to do jack shit...any ideas? I mean, it works fine without it plugged in...it is supposed to actually do something on an 8v? It gets power and everything, so I assume it's "working" but unplugging the harness seems to do jack shit...

 

[saabsbreakdown]

It closes when it warms up. It opens when it is really cold. This is so you idle higher on a cold start. Your beginning to realise why my car has none of this original CIS shit on it, arn't you?

Suposidly, I do not believe this whatsoever, there is a vacuum powered dashpot (probably by your fuel filter) that senses when the car is going to stall and opens up the aux air valve to bring the idle back up. If this is what its for, it probably stopped working about 22 years ago.