I would say changing the tranny had something to do with it, if you "sagged" the motor. Which you pretty much got to do to get the tranny off.

The standard engine mount has a lot of movement in it (being rubber) but the GS mount is solid. If you were to do it again with the GS mount I would undo the two mounting bolts 1/4 of the way so that when you "sagg" the motor there is not so much pressure on the mount and the movenment will be in the loose bolts. If all that makes sense !

Changing the mount is a piece of cake.

place a jack under the sump with a piece of wood between the jack and the sump.
Jack it up , taking pressure of the mount.

Undo the two top bolts (attached to the chassis) and the "allen key" bolt, Attached to the motor.

Wallah, mount is now removed.

 

I figured the tranny job put a lot of stress on the bolt. The problem I have is half the allen bolt is snapped off in the bracket that holds the a/c compressor to the engine and the engine mount to the engine.

 

Is there enough of the bolt sticking out that you can get a pair of "grips" onto it.

If not you will have to use a tool called an "easy out"

 

Who did the tranny job? Something's fishy here. If it's the correct undamaged bolt in there at the proper torque there's no way that it would just break. Sagging the trans properly shouldn't be able to damage the bolt either.

Something was changed or damaged.

 

I did the tranny job per the WIS. The mount has been properly installed for 2/3 a year now with no issues. The mount was never touched during the job and the engine was properly supported with an engine beam.

 

Sounds like you either had a bad bolt from the factory or it was mixed up with another bolt or maybe over torqued. Did you use a torque wrench originally? Depending what order you do things it would be pretty easy to get in the situation where a 1/2 breaker bar and allen socket would be the combination that gives enough clearance and length to get on it, which would make it pretty easy to overtorque. It's a weird failure, if everything's right that bolt should be more than enough.

 

Bolt was torqued per installation instructions. Can I limp the car with the oil pan resting on the subframe?

 

You could, but it will put a lot of stress on the two other mounts and on the subframe.

I wouldn't for more than a couple of miles.

 

I usually undid that mount when doing trany jobs out the bottom anyway just for the extra play.

 

 

That bolt looks very suspect to me.
It's like it's corroded on the end of it.
Something has been eating away at the metal and caused the failure.

High tensile bolts like that don"t just snap.

I smell sabotage!!

Or you used battery acid as thread locker

 

I was joking with the sabotage thing

But the bolt looks suss all the same.

 

You can joke here... but if you were at the airport in the USA we'd have to turn you over to the TSA for a cancer causing dose of x-rays, a pat down, and an underwear check.

That's our policy.

 

What is the org grade on the stock bolt used and what is the grade of that bolt? Since the poly causes more stress i would think that you would need one that is way stronger then the org.

 

Pretty sure the mount from GS comes with a new bolt. Which he used.

 

I actually had the same bolt snap on me about 4 years ago. First I drilled it out and put in a larger heli-coil but it never felt right. Eventually ended up changing out the AC bracket, really not that bad of a project.

 

Stock bolt or replacement?

 

Mine was a stock bolt, eventually ended up buying the GS part and haven't had a problem since.