The automatic transmission can cause a stall if the fluid is low, Or the throtle body could be on the way out. Is the chech engine light on? & is the throtle body in limp home? The Chassis ground or the ignition switch maybe?

 

Thanks for your help.

The trans fluid is spot on, but this hole thing started with that the "warning trans" lamp come on.

The first time it happend, the engine stalled, then it happend 2 times after that I think. These last 2 times, the trans lamp come one, but no stall. The lamp went out after about 20 seconds.

I think it happend in bad, rainy weather, not 100% on that, at least 2 times in bad weather.

After this, the new thing with "no start", and dying while driving started.
No lamp is on right now, and it is a 1995, so I cant read any codes.

Throttle body is the old style, completely mechanic.

The ground wires are new. I have checked the basic power feeds wires and fuses. They seem to be ok. I checked the relays under the dash, no one seemed to be the main ignition relay? According to my schematic there is a main ignition relay. Its marked in the schematic, realy no: 36?

I took out all relays under the dash, but none killed the ignition? Are there more realys hidden somewhere?

Im thinking ignition switch to, since a shut off, and a turn on, of the ignition switch, always! makes the engine restart. All the maybe 8 to 10 times this has happend.

 

Check to see that the alternator isn't Overcharging also. I've seen alternators on 95 900's in particular jump up to 18+ volts, Light up the dash & stall the car. It wasn't to hard to figure out. The dash lights got really bright when the voltage reg in the alt started to randomly fail.

 

same thing happened to my 93 it was the ground wire to the transmission

 

what exactly is your car? if it's a '95 900se turbo it is obdII and you can hook up a scanner to read the codes.

 

Its a 2,3 Bosch Motronic. I been fighting like crazy with different OBD2 readers, and some Snap on readers, with no luck. It seems like only a Tech 2 can read this car.

I havent tried the cable from one of the sites, (dont remember which site) that supposedly can go in on the ALDL line in the connector, and read it on a regular computer.

I was hoping someone had tried that, and had some experience, because its like 25 different program you can download, and then you have to try and see which one works. (if any works?)

I will check the voltage and check one more time the ground to the trans.

One time both lamps "check trans" and "check ABS" come one. Speed sensor in trans?

 

People a while ago were having trouble with the ground in the BACK of the car, near the taillight. I'd check that too.

 

People a while ago were having trouble with the ground in the BACK of the car, near the taillight. I'd check that too.[/QUOTE

I just read under a thread that the ground for the fuelpump is located there.

Come on SAAB!!!!

The intelligent place for a pump ground is: close to the pump (prone to corrision though) , or close to the pump relay, close to the ECU, or anywhere in the hole freaking car except in the trunk!

An engineer that never worked in the "real world" can do such stupid things.

Im going to clean that ground, since I have corrosion holes at the side of the trunk. (The car has been running like 10 years in Philadelphia)

 

Update.
The car run fine for weeks. Then standing at a light it just died. Before it has always started up immidiately, but not this time.
Luckily it was downhill, so I rolled slowly over the intersection while trying to start it. I find a spot to stop out of the way of traffic, and after the 5th attempt to start it finally started again.

Run fine home, until I went in and bought some food, come out and the starter spun fine, but no start. Open the little lid under the back seat, and took a hammer and gave the tank a couple of blows.

Started up hesitating, and then the funniest noice, loud and clear like a ratteling/klicking something.

So I changed the fuelpump today, and it feels like the engine has more power at low rpm's, also most of the hesitating when I pushed the gaspedal hard is gone.

But here is my Question: What is the valve at the bottom at the fuel pump assembly doing? Overpressure safety valve? Feeding the bottom of the pump? I tried to blow thru it and it was not completely closed. Never seen anything like that before on all the cars I changed pumps on.

Well since there was no parts or new hoses for that valve, I just cut the hose at the valve, and left the valve in the hole at the side of the unit, since it has a shape of a little pickup "strainer".
Then I connected everything like an old car without this valve. One hose that goes straight to the pressure line.

But of course it doesnt feel good to leave it like that.

 

Ok I found the answer to my question in WIS

This is what WIS says:

"The design and principle of operation of the pump is basically the same as in earlier fuelpumps, having a main pump and a feed pump. However, in the Walbro pump the feed pump has been replaced by a positive ejector which is driven by the flow of fuel through the pressure line via a T-piece.

(My comment: This is strange. I havent worked with SAAB in tank fuel pumps before, but no other car maker has had the need of 2 pumps in the tank! The purpose of moving the pump in to the tank was to get rid of the " pre pump", and saving money ((and Noise))
I remember when Volvo moved the suction hose to the top of the tank in 1976, and got extrem problems with no start. In 1977 all Volvo injection cars, had a prepump in the tank that pushed up the fuel to the outside high pressure pump. End my comment)

The purpose of the ejector is to ensure that the pump is continuosly supplied with fuel. Owing to the location of the pump in the reservoir, the supply of fuel to the engine is maintained during cornering, and acceleration even when only a small quantity of fuel remains in the tank."

So me bypassing this system, means that I can be out of fuel temporary while accelerating hard, or cornering hard, if I have little fuel in the tank.

I can live with that!

 

Final fix! The fuel pump didn't help.

But I started more and more to suspect the ignition switch. So after founding out that position 15, on the ignition switch feeds the dashboard and the ignition coil. I realise that when the car dies, the dash goes dead too.

It also feeds power to the transmission, that is probably why I had trans warning lamp issues in the beginning of this problem.

Today I hoked up a switch that bypass 30 (power) and 15 on the ign.switch, and luckily the car was acting up a lot driving around during my break.

So when the car died I flipped the switch, and the dash come to live, and I could start the car again.

Just have to buy a ign.switch, and I think I like my SAAB again.