It's not that it's an incredibly difficult job, it's just that it can be frustrating. The only real piece of advice I can offer is give yourself plenty of time; platonoff walkthrough is awesome in that it lists out tools etc, so make sure you have everything you need and twice as long as you think you'll need to get it done. Nothing worse than needing the car back on the road the next day while its in pieces. While you're in there I'd replace the slave and maybe the diff oil seals, etc. Anything that's normally a pita to get to, is pretty easy when you've dropped the subframe.

Good luck!

 

Yep, plenty of time. The first time I did one, i got so frustrated when I had everything apart, i thought about parting the car out! (oh wait, you wanted encouragement)

Make sure you bust those axle nuts off first. They require a big socket that most people don't have. Do it with the car on the ground, with the wheels on.

Some people debate on whether to take the passenger side intermediate shaft off, i say do it.

Make sure you have ALL the bell housing bolts off. The instructions you found have the information you need.

Try to find a helper to get the box back into the car. Its input shaft has to fit perfectly into the clutch assembly. This can be tough if you are laying under the car with the transmission on your chest trying to do a bench press.

The first time I did it, I forgot to re-attach the ground wire to the transmission, so nothing happened when I tried to start the car. It took me a day to figure out what I forgot. Give yourself time to walk away and come back fresh.

Good luck, it's not terrible, but it can be bad. Consider doing a rear main seal too while you're there.

 

Don't psyche yourself out, it's not that hard. I've done about 9-10 now, in my driveway/garage on jackstands, getting faster each time.

Probably the most useful thing I've learned is something NickT pointed out to me. He told me to "sag the engine". After you have the subframe off and the engine/trans is being supported by your engine-suspension setup and the passenger side engine mount, put a floor jack under the engine/trans on the drivers side, to slacken the straps, and then make them longer to let the whole thing sag so that you can get at everything from the drivers side wheel well using sockets with extensions, double extensions.

The other thing is to make sure that everythings lined up when you're putting it back in . Pre-fit the driven plate onto the trans input shaft while it's outside the car, make sure it slides on smoothly, put a little moly grease on it. Then make sure the driven plate is centered correctly under the pressure plate, the plastic tools leave a little slop. Then when you're lining things up, have a screwdriver handy to advance/roatate the flywheel a tooth or two if the splines aren't lined up. Likewise for the passenger half shaft. If you force it, you can damage the splines, and then you have to pull the whole thing down again and file down the splines.

These trans are heavy but not crazy heavy, 110lbs I think. I put a rubber floor pad on my chest, put the trans on top of that, say a small prayer thanking God that I'm financially in a position to have a car that has a clutch problem and physically able to even think it's possible that I'm about to try lifting this stupid awkward thing, and then do a combination bench press, back bridge to get them in place. Not too hard, but you do have to be a little strong if you're going to try it w/o a trans lift.

I can do one complete in probably 5-6 hours, first couple took 2 days or so. I've heard of guys doing them in under 4 hours.

 

on the ground i left the intermediate shaft in, if you do it this way it is pretty hard to get the trans back in by yourself. if you pull it out and you have a lil muscle you can prob do it by yourself pretty easily. IMO

 

Thanks guys,
I've got 4 weeks holidays after Christmas. I'm going to give it a go then.
This is my shopping list so far:

Viggen Clutch & PP
Dummy shaft
Genuine clutch cable
Rear main seal
And I'm also going to replace all my engine and trans mounts to GS.
That's about all I'm going to need (I think)

Is there Anything else I might want to think about while I got the box out?

 

First time I did my clutch, I took the intermediate shaft off.
Second time, I left it on.
Either way, two people are helpful.

If you have that much free time, you should swap to the hydraulic setup as well.

Might as well do the rear main seal while your there.
Don't forget new flywheel bolts if you remove the flywheel.
Also, don't forget new pressure plate bolts and axle nuts.

 

Rear main seal, for sure.
At the risk of sounding stupid, What the "intermediate shaft"?

Replace all the nuts and bolts huh. Probably not a bad idea.

I thought about doing the Hydraulic conversion but I've got that much going on now that I don't need to make extra jobs .

 

The output of the transmission is not in the center of the car, it is over on the drivers side (actually, the whole transmission is really on the drivers side). The intermediate shaft lengthens the passenger side driveshaft. Effectively, the passenger side driveshaft is two main pieces, the intermediate shaft, plus the outer driveshaft which contains your CV joints. You'll know exactly what it is when you see it.

 

Not all the nuts and bolts.
The flywheel and pressure plate bolts and the axle nuts are "one time use".

 

Thanks,
: Noted on "to buy list"

The output of the transmission is not in the center of the car, it is over on the drivers side (actually, the whole transmission is really on the drivers side). The intermediate shaft lengthens the passenger side driveshaft. Effectively, the passenger side driveshaft is two main pieces, the intermediate shaft, plus the outer driveshaft which contains your CV joints. You'll know exactly what it is when you see it.

I know what you mean now,Thanks.
By the way I'm in the southern Hemi,My steering wheel is on the "RIGHT" side

if your removing the trans fill your own trans mount with polyurethane. its messy and takes time but you can do it if you can do a trans swap. you can fill the front mount too. i have pics of mounts i filled if you want them pm me. i can sell you a filled one i have already filled for $30 but shipping might kill it. plus if mine is too stiff you can drill out some material to soften it up. and just to let you know your car is going to shake like craazy if you do all the mounts. fine for a race car but not as good for street/daily. i did the trans mount and i can feel it a bit on start up and idle

also check out arp bolts for the flywheel

and i i like the cable clutch better than hydro. simple is better

Pitman, These home made mounts of yours, Are they as hard as race mounts ?
Are the GS "SPORT" mounts a bit softer than yours?

Good luck. It's not that hard, just a bunch of bolts.

I think that's how I'm going to approach it . One step at a time.
Do one procedure than move onto the next.

 

if your removing the trans fill your own trans mount with polyurethane. its messy and takes time but you can do it if you can do a trans swap. you can fill the front mount too. i have pics of mounts i filled if you want them pm me. i can sell you a filled one i have already filled for $30 but shipping might kill it. plus if mine is too stiff you can drill out some material to soften it up. and just to let you know your car is going to shake like craazy if you do all the mounts. fine for a race car but not as good for street/daily. i did the trans mount and i can feel it a bit on start up and idle

also check out arp bolts for the flywheel

and i i like the cable clutch better than hydro. simple is better

 

its worth noting that the cable will stretch faster and probably have a shorter life span with the heavier viggen pressure plate.

ive been thinking about a custom external slave hydro setup that actuates the normally cable driven arm that sticks out the tranny. that way its the best of both worlds, hydro consistancy with the ease of replacement since you wouldnt have to drop the tranny to replace the iffy slaves these cars can have.

 

thats a good idea. motorcycles use that and some dirtbike/quads. if you made this for decent price it would be worth it

 

Take pictures.

I did my 9000 transmission (have done it several times now) and took a shit-ton of pictures, because no one ever posted a photogenic walkthrough of the procedure. I don't do well with manuals that have all the steps listed but no pics.

Good luck. It's not that hard, just a bunch of bolts.

 

Hey guys,
when I take the sub-frame off, I'm hearing the bolts are real arseholes.
Can I use an air powered rattle gun? Or would that possibly break the bolts.
Would I be better of just using a breaker bar and my "massive" guns.
What do ya' think?

 

Air gun is fine for subframe bolts, remember lefty loosy, rightly tighty and you'll be ok.

 

Are they rusted, if so spray the crap out of them with pb, kroll or whatever you have and let them sit for a day or two, and keep spraying them. Breaker bar works fine, but if they are stubborn use heat.

 

Use an air gun. I've never had one break, and I break a lot of bolts.

 

Air gun is better. I break more bolts using a cheater pipe and leverage then I do with an air gun.

 

Excellent,

 

*Update*

Hey there guys,

O.K, All my clutch gear is due to arrive next week.

And I'm getting nervous, as "gearbox day" edges closer and closer. (early March)
More excited than nervous. I keep telling myself "the first time is the worst".
I'm sure I'll be an expert the second time round.,....... Anyway,

Do you need to "break in "a Viggen clutch or can I stand on it straight away.

I know you need to break in a paddle clutch (1000 klm) not sure about the Viggen.

I'm sure I'll take it easy anyway , but was curious

Cheers

 

Every clutch requires a break-in period; just try not to slip it too much and don't hammer on it for a couple hundred miles.

 

My viggen clutch kit just arrived.

 

Warning: Possible stupid question

Ok,
As the day draws closer I just want to make sure I know as much as I can,SO
I was reading somewhere that I will have to mark the sub-frame spots to make sure it goes back in exactly the same spot.

Is this correct?

I would imagine that the sub frame could only go in one spot because it is guided by the 6 bolts holding it.

Or is there a bit of "play" where the sub-frame mounts up and it can move around a bit.

:signs065: Have I got any idea what I'm talking about?

 

There is play when it comes to putting the subframe back on. I took a really small punch, or you can use anything, to score the outline of the subframe on the car.

It's not 100% necessary, but it helps with the alignment and stuff.

Also, with the subframe off (including control arms), the strut assembly will be able to move. There is enough play to carefully pull the halfshaft out of the trans without touching the axle nut. Just be sure to support the weight of the halfshaft with some wire so it's not just dangling.

Be sure you have a good ball joint separator. That was the most annoying part of the job for me.

I don't know if you have it, but replace the release bearing (the "slave cylinder" on cable operated transmissions).

Try to get another set of hands to help if you are alone. They don't have to be skilled but someone who doesn't mind getting dirty. Doing it alone is frustrating but possible. I've done it alone the last few times now.

 

There is play when it comes to putting the subframe back on. I took a really small punch, or you can use anything, to score the outline of the subframe on the car.

It's not 100% necessary, but it helps with the alignment and stuff.

Also, with the subframe off (including control arms), the strut assembly will be able to move. There is enough play to carefully pull the halfshaft out of the trans without touching the axle nut. Just be sure to support the weight of the halfshaft with some wire so it's not just dangling.

Be sure you have a good ball joint separator. That was the most annoying part of the job for me.

I don't know if you have it, but replace the release bearing (the "slave cylinder" on cable operated
transmissions).

Try to get another set of hands to help if you are alone. They don't have to be skilled but someone who doesn't mind getting dirty. Doing it alone is frustrating but possible. I've done it alone the last few times now.

I'll mark the sub frame with a metal scribe before I start.

Gee, that release bearing sleeve sure is expensive ($170). Its about the only part I don't have. Would I get away with not changing it do you think. Or is it a "must do". I'll get one if I have to

Edit: Sorry Mark,
I think I got mixed up with a release bearing and a release bearing sleeve
I have the release bearing (SKF) but was going to use the old sleeve.
What do you think?

I also have one of those "forked chisel" type ball joint splitters.

 

forked chisel isn't too nice to the rubber boots sometimes. I actually use a small 2 jaw gear puller. You can also get specific ball joint pullers.

On the frame alignment, don't sweat-it too much, if it's not alligned correctly 1st time there's nothing stopping you from putting it back on jack stands, loosening the bolts, and then prying the subframe to readjust it until you're happy.

If you're still on a cable clutch you might consider going hydraulic, it's sweet.

 

forked chisel isn't too nice to the rubber boots sometimes. I actually use a small 2 jaw gear puller. You can also get specific ball joint pullers.

I wholeheartedly agree with Drew. I used to always tear up the boots with the forks. Even a cheap puller is worth the investment unless you already bought some new boots.

Something like this:
Steering Suspension Ball Joint Separator Removal Puller | eBay

 

Thanks guys,
I'll get one of those gear pullers

 

Hey guys,
What about this style of puller? Its real cheap too.

Ball joint seperator by BERGEN AT583 | eBay

 

Yep, that's the style. Don't know if that partcular one will fit but that's the idea

 

I just watched a u-tube vid where the hits the ball joint with a hammer.

Has anyone had any success doing this ?

 

I just watched a u-tube vid where the hits the ball joint with a hammer.

Has anyone had any success doing this ?
The Easy Best Way to Separate a Ball Joint Tie Rod End How to - YouTube

Yes...thats how I always do it. Hit the spot where the spindle goes through the steering knuckle then use a large pry bar between the subframe and over the top of the control arm to free the joint.