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#21 ·
amish_geek said:
Current tires have less than 3000 miles on them. I got brand spanking new rubber with my brand spanking new wheels last summer.

Brakes were redone last summer (OE pads/rotors).
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Prior to the track day, I would put new pads on, non-oe, something like a EBC or Hawk pad. FLUSH, not just bleed your brakes with 5.1 fluid.

And please don't tell me you are going out on the track in all seasons, especially if you are going to be pushing that much power.

It's going to be real embarrassing for you when I pass you with 100 less horsepower. :D

Edit: also, you better not be one of those pricks who is slow through the turns but crazy fast on the straights, but doesn't let people pass you.

There were a couple guys in SRT-10/ACR Vipers, I was on their ass and had to slow way down to go through the turns, but when it got to the passing zones, they would just take off and not let me pass, even though Champ and I were running faster laps.

Fair warning. ;)
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
^ I have never bought All seasons since I've owned a Saab. Performance Summers + Dedicated Snows = WIN!


Will there be a ritual brake flush/bleed party again in May like there was last time? EBC Reds are what I'm thinking of.. I have PBR Ultimate Ceramics on my NG900, but I can't stand the brake squeal.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
oh, I retract my previous statement.. you're right. I did buy a set of used Bridgestone Potenzas for $40 for 4 tires to mount on my fondmetals for the NG900. That was because I spent $500+ on new tires for the SPG, and I didn't want to spend another $500 just then on the NG900.

I consider those tires more "free" than actual purchased tires though.

They are also bald, and will be replaced this spring once I bring the fondmetals out of storage.


But we go Off Topic
 
#26 ·
Not off topic at all. I know for a fact that Topher will be embarrasing you and I wish better lap times in a much "slower" car.

What sort of tires does the SPG have on it right now?

What has been done to the suspension? Stock shocks and your car is going to look like a schooner in the storm, tipping back and forth through the turns...
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
JK said:
Not off topic at all. I know for a fact that Topher will be embarrasing you and I wish better lap times in a much "slower" car.

What sort of tires does the SPG have on it right now?

What has been done to the suspension? Stock shocks and your car is going to look like a schooner in the storm, tipping back and forth through the turns...
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Well, this thread is a checklist to get the engine back together and the car driving under it's own power.

The SPG will be getting either Bilstein HD's or Koni Adjustibles. Not sure if I will need/want the adjustibiltiy on the SPG since it's not a daily driver.

Current rubber on the SPG is Fuzion ZRi's Definitely not the best rubber, but better than all seasons.
 
#32 ·
Nate said:
You'll need an aluminum side cover with the mini dipstick to use the BF! header.
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did you see the pics i posted in the difference in how thick the different side covers are?

also, i see that you are doing all gaskets and seals, it might not be a bad idea to go a step further and check your bearing oil clearances and signs of wear. how many miles are on the piston rings? i know, i know, c900 engines last a long time... you've seen what happened to me in my project thread? there were less than 5k miles on that supposed 180k engine that i completely resealed before blowing it up.

do check your flywheel while you are in there. i am sure i have pics of a badly worn out flywheel around here somewhere.

i would highly recommend upgrading the pressure plate, but do stick with the stock friction disc unless the car is going to be a track only car.

do you plan to setup a transmission oil cooler w/ pump? now would be the time to do it. i did not only due to finances... and going from broke and into debt trying to get around in a 12-15mpg (empty) suburban.

new plugs/wires/cap/rotor... would be silly to use old at this point.

i love my Bilstein HD shocks (and strongly recommend using poly bushes on the front) and am under the impression that the Koni adjustables are not necessarily something that can be adjusted in 10 minutes. i think the rear shocks have to come off the car? someone correct me if i am wrong.

do you have anaerobic gasket sealer? TSL members have me sold on it. I wont use anything else now.
 
#33 ·
also, intake manifold bushings. you dont want to be popping stuff out of when you boost.

new copper washers for the fuel line fittings.

gasket scraper tool to clean everything before it goes back on. you do have all the gaskets, right?
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
#35 ·
you're going to want 3 of those intake manifold bushings.

also, if resealing the entire motor and putting on a much larger turbo, why not do rings and bearings at the same time? (probably because you know it will drive you nuts as much as it is driving me right now.... wee! 210 miles on the new motor!)
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
xassh said:
you're going to want 3 of those intake manifold bushings.

also, if resealing the entire motor and putting on a much larger turbo, why not do rings and bearings at the same time? (probably because you know it will drive you nuts as much as it is driving me right now.... wee! 210 miles on the new motor!)
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Budget constraints.

Rings can wait to go in with a new transmission. I'm confident the current rings will do a good job of blowing out my pinion gear.
 
#37 ·
save yourself a few hundred in the long run then... dont bother with the rings.

i just dont want to see you spending $300 on gaskets and seals now, and again very soon. just dont do what i did, and go blowing up a motor within 5k miles of spending a few hundred on the motor and a few hundred more to seal it up.
 
#39 ·
That list looks great, i would sell the seats and get some reclinable bucket seats. I replaced the seats on my viggen cause of the weight and i know the aero seats are more then the vig seats.

I would also add to the list some lightweight wheels sell the aeros.

Can wait to see the dyno results when you get it tuned. Wish i lived near you guys i would be at the track all the time.
 
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Discussion starter · #40 ·
snow4_1man said:
That list looks great, i would sell the seats and get some reclinable bucket seats. I replaced the seats on my viggen cause of the weight and i know the aero seats are more then the vig seats.

I would also add to the list some lightweight wheels sell the aeros.

Can wait to see the dyno results when you get it tuned. Wish i lived near you guys i would be at the track all the time.
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It's not about the lightweight seats... I want comfort.

Plus, I got the seats for silly cheap from Palmer.

My wheels are lighter than Aeros.. I have the Konig Viggen "replica" wheels, which I think are right around 19-20lbs each. Which isn't too bad.

If I was to replace the Aero seats, I'd go for the recaro sport topline power/heated/vented seats... but those are $1600 :shock:

In all reality, I don't think 100 extra lbs from the seats/wheels will make much difference.
 
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