they should drop right in, but a tune will take full advantage of them.

nice score!

 

nice! $?

how long does it take to change cams?

 

not long... the time is doing the timing, gotta get that right!

Rafal you gonna come get your parts or what?! lol

Casey

 

not long... the time is doing the timing, gotta get that right!

Rafal you gonna come get your parts or what?! lol

Casey

yeah, in your case it might take a very short time ;p

i'll try but i guess wont be able to go there by next tuesday. unless they are open late on saturdays, which they are not.

 

u wanna meet somewhere? i can bring them with me and we can meet somewhere on sat if you want

 

Pull the 12 mm bolt on the spring tentioner, ziptie both gears to the chain and unbolt them via the 14MMbolt holding them in, then pop all the 12 mm bolts holding the camshafts in... insert new cams, align cams to sprockets, which cannot jump any teeth because they are zip tied. Torque the cam caps down, torque the 14 mm bolt on the sprocket to 63nm, and turn the motor over 2 times to check your timing marks.


This method makes it just about impossible to time the engine incorrectly!

 

Pull the 12 mm bolt on the spring tentioner, ziptie both gears to the chain and unbolt them via the 14MMbolt holding them in, then pop all the 12 mm bolts holding the camshafts in... insert new cams, align cams to sprockets, which cannot jump any teeth because they are zip tied. Torque the cam caps down, torque the 14 mm bolt on the sprocket to 63nm, and turn the motor over 2 times to check your timing marks.

This method makes it just about impossible to time the engine incorrectly!

What he said.

Its pretty foolproof. I would say the hardest part of the whole thing is messing with the tensioner.

 

My body shop wants to see my car on Wednesday so I don't mind coming on Tuesday, unless your dealership doesn't want to store them for me ;p

 

well might be doing this, this coming weekend. tensioner shouldn't be a problem at all. the one thing thats gonna annoy me is the valve cover gasket. i put a new one in after i bought the car. a year ago now. damn thing is leaking once again. i used some rtv along with the gasket. so i was wondering what everyone else has used and what luck they had with keeping it from leaking. i hate oil leaks!

Casey

 

Absolutely DO NOT FORGET to torque the Camshaft sprockets.... it will bite you in the ass if you dont!
JP

 

sounds like you had a bad experience..

 

you could say that!

 

oh dont worry everything is gonna be torqued! i dont need to replace my engine anytime soon.

Casey

 

Best way to solve the leaky valve cover gasket is to use a new one and clean both surfaces.

You will like the T5 cams. They will make a good improvement in mid-range grunt.

 

see thats the thing. i cleaned both surfaces to a shine and put a new gasket AND rtv so i dont understand why it leaked so soon.

Casey

 

If you want to do belt and suspenders you could try this stuff: http://www.hylomar-usa.com/

Works great!

 

share the wealth and find me a set of cams?

 

I've always been told to never use RTV with a fresh SAAB valve cover gasket. I used a few dabs every few inches just to keep it attached to the cover.

 

Saabkid I've got a set of T5 cams from a 9000 b204 and 900 b234i

 

well im still confused as to exactly what they need to come out of but...i dont think either of those cars are t5...so the cams would need some adjustment to hit the correct mark on install i believe.

 

all t5 cams are the same 900 9-3 or 9000

 

werent the N/A 900 cams different, the ones from the b234i?

Casey

 

Ive heard the N/As breath even better than the turbo ones. But dont take just my word on it.

 

i believe all the cams are interchangeable, but there are some in there that had settings that require you to have to find the centerline when you install them etc, making them not so "drop in and get the gains"

that is what makeyousaab is offering i believe.

any "T5" cam is a direct swap and go.

 

did you get them in yet?

 

thats what she said.