I left the shafts in and plugged the tennisoner hole with that GS thingy.

 

you need to leave the shafts in other wise you will have no oil pressure. Just cut the chain and plug the tensioner holes with the GS plate. Just cut and plug

 

What I believe my dad did with his engine was that he removed the balance shafts and plugged the holes. Not sure if oil pressure is affected... since the engine is not in the car yet...:mrgreen:

 

tell him to put them back in now lol

 

shafts are usually left in. Moreboost, is your motor done yet?

 

Ya ok. I am going to be starting my build. I don't plan on making a thread because I am going to be taking my time. Aka saving money and just buying parts when I can.

Thanks guys

 

I just did this. Just want to repeat what everyone else has said. Remove the balance shaft chain/tensioner and plug the tensioner hole provided by GS. Leave the shafts in, its the rotational weight you're gaining from this.

Tensioner plug: http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/...atalog/product_info.php?products_id=524&osCsid=ad16b3cc62249ae6431ed2268b1b4b9e

 

Im pretty sure Ive read around of people actually removing the shafts and plugging the holes without any issues. I dont think how removing a solid piece of steel that is doing nothing in there there would adversely affect oil pressure.

Edit:

Ok... now i remembered what he did. He used some engine caps(or something like that) to plug all the holes inside the engine that lubricate the bearings and stuff.

 

if its a 93- engine i wouldnt reccomend it! 94+ go for it!
JP

 

You could remove the shafts if you wanted to. If you do you just have to knock out the bearins and fit new ones but make sure the the oil feed doesn't line up with the bearing. The bearin positioned wrong will block the oil flow

 

On my 900 we cut the chain, tapped the hole in the block and plugged it with a grade 9 bolt. 5000 miles and no hiccups.

 

ya i just plan on leaving the shafts in is there a oil feed to the idler sprocket or whatever that other sprocket is called

 

so i went to get my block hot tanked, honed and shit and they told me i should bore and hone the cylinder walls and said i have to wait till i get pistons. so my new question is if i were to get the je pistons from nick are the standard size 90 mm and if i were to get my cylinders bored would i go for the 90.5 or the 91. Im not sure what a standard bore is but im guessing i would just have to get the 90.5 if the 90 is the standard

 

If your boring and honing youll most likely need to go up in size. Decide what you want to go to and get the corresponding pistons. Wossner pistons are also another option as they have a speced piston for a 9000. Is that my old motor? Also leave the shafts in and plug the hole w your own or nick's plug. If your getting your motor balanced anyway it will not be an issue.

 

no i got a tranny from you not a motor. i just picked this motor up from VI009DZ. when u say getting motor balanced u mean like the lower rotating assembly right.

and what the JE pistons are not "speced" for a 9000. Can u give me some more info on this mvadenais

 

Im just saying that Wossner has a piston for use w/ 9ks. Mike C. from Conntech said he preferred the wossner to the JE as he has build motors w/ both. And yes a motor balance is and including the crank and flywheel and pressure plate and drive pully. What are you looking for power wise?

 

number wise im not really sure i was thinking of doing a holset build so idk maybe like around 400 to the crank or more.

im going to look into the wossners where did u gets yours local or offline.

 

my local engine builder has had a couple engines in nextel cup. he says theres little to no point in balencing a inline 4 cyl engine....
i have no experiance in the matter so ill just throw his comment out there!
JP

 

ya from what i have read on other peoples builds i did not plan on balancing it

 

I got mine (pistons) through ConnTech in RI. Call up and ask.

My local engine builder works on Saabs and has since the 70's. He recommended the balance which he does on all higher HP builds. I bet if you did all the same things to 2 identical 2.3 motors except balance one, the balanced one would run smoother.

 

ehhh i dont know i agree with what you saying but at the same time many people dont balance them and are fine. i guess its just all in how i feel when the time comes. do u remember how much u paid for ur pistons mvadenais

 

http://wossneronline.com/forged_pistons/

i found that site but it kinda seems sketchy idk there like 600 bucks

 

just giving my opinion on balancing, my motor is very very smooth. I payed right around $550-575. I had the first true 9000 wossners in the states. Most people before me were using 9-5 pistons. The site says $550. Thats even cheaper than JE. Again I chose to balance because I was going for higher HP

 

ok ill keep that in consideration. i think im tryin to rush my build to much if i just wait and take my time i will balance it. im about to sell my cs that ur tranny is in and i was going to buy pistons with that.

i gotta get my crank flywheel pp, and crank pully all ready if i want to balance

 

I noticed you are talking about 1993 and 1994+ blocks. Are you building this 1994+ block for a 1993 car? Jes' wunderin', 'cause it won't work. Blocks were changed in '94.

 

no i am just building a 94 block but i have a full 93 spare engine 2. i still dont know what car this is going into yet so i still have plenty of time to wait on this build lol

 

Ok, just in case you decide to remove the balance shafts while you're there. Here's what my dad did, following someone's write up at a forum or webpage... not sure where...

First he removed the balance shaft and left the bearings inside the engine. Then he went and bought a huge socket that fit through the balance shaft's hole. He had to take the socket to a friend's machine shop to have it fixed so it got to the bearings and did not get stuck in the engine. He measured the final position of the socket + balance shafts when in the engine against the bearings. He then added about 6.25-6.50 mm to that, and then pushed the bearings that much, so that the bearings would block the little holes where oil goes through. He used the same caps from the balance shafts and got them filled and soldered in order to plug the holes, the one in the pic was one that broke though. I included some pics, but they kinda suck. Any questions just let me know.