Very nice! I have always wanted a Beryl Green SPG.

 

ok

 

mmmmmmm green "real" SPG

 

Very cool. It's a good looking car and uber rare.

Welcome to the rehab club.

 

Thanks for the support! Any ideas on the following:
Got a CEL, so I built a fault code reader but am unsure about the Bentley directions. I have the 10 prong connector under the rear seat. Am I supposed to stick a spade-type connector into one of the holes or a female connector onto one of the prongs. Either way, which location in the connector? TIA

 

Check engine light for c900's are usually just a dummy light. They are generally triggered by vaccuum leaks.

 

I have already fixed 1 vacuum leak (broken line coming off the PCV) but I can't find any diagrams for the proper routing of the lines. I know about the 1 on the fender, but it is a little to "basic". My vacuum lines have been hacked by previous owners/mechanics and even have the washer fluid T connectors in-line. Any one got a got diagram or a link to one?

 

For the CEL reading, just squeeze a wire around the spade (male) with a plier, I believe it's second from the back to the right side of the car. Then either ground or 12v the other end (can't remember which). I believe I just sat in the front seat so I could read the codes, and touched the wire to the cigarette lighter socket until it went. I did manage to blow a fuse, though.

 

ps - chk engine light on lh 2.4

isnt just a dummy light... for 2.2 (up to and including 1988 turbos)... yes... but 2.4, the codes are legit most often

 

yep, LH 2.4 and 2.4.2 cars there is real info there. If you check the CEL codes, you have a good chance of actually being able to diag the problem

 

Yeah, guess it's just because each time I had the check engine light come on in the 90 900T was due to vaccuum leaks...

Check the one to the charcoal canister (it's a little elbow piece)... it is almost always torn or off. (every c900 I have bought).

 

FPR vac line now fixed. Found the proper connector in the 10-pin for fault reading and it returned no faults :roll: Not even the "no engine RPM" one Ran the car for like 10 minutes after that and no CEL. Did the Green Machine fix herself?
I will keep trying to sort out vacuum line issues. So what is this (see pic)? It is located on the drivers side interior fender in the engine bay just behind my stock intercooler. It looks to be some kind of junction/valve box for vacuum lines. Is it necessary? What's its purpose? TIA

 

Do you have cruise control? It looks similar to the vacuum pump unit in my 91 Turbo. If so it is the control pump for the cruise control system. Also, depending on the CEL system (referencing many vehicle types here) an intermittent fault that does not occur after X starts will dissappear. Most of my experience in this area has been 10 starts with no further fault. If your CEL was due to a vacuum fault, it may have cleared it self due to your repairs.

 

Do you have cruise control? It looks similar to the vacuum pump unit in my 91 Turbo. If so it is the control pump for the cruise control system.

The car has cruise control but I thought the cruise control vacuum system was located directly on the other side of the unit in my pic. I think it has 2 "y" type vacuum hose fittings of the bottom of it. :???:

 

that looks like an EGR component

Which I'd be really surprised to see on a 91... where are you located again? do you have a black vacuum tank above your left / drivers (in US) side radiator fan?

 

Which I'd be really surprised to see on a 91... where are you located again? do you have a black vacuum tank above your left / drivers (in US) side radiator fan?

At the moment I am located right in the path of tropical storm Fay and yes I do have the black vacuum tank above the radiator fan. The build spec sticker on the driver's side fender says US50 so I think the car has extra emission stuff for the California regulations. Here in Florida, we don't even have car inspection so I am wondering how to test this equipment for functionality and also what can be removed if need be.

 

I'd say it also a ERG system. All SPGs had them.

 

My 89 did not have EGR.

 

If your marker said US50, You do not have anything unique in your system to CA. Until the CARB (Ca Air Resources Board) got permission to impose tighter standards for a given model, the federal rules at the time were adequate, hence the "US50" tag. Dump your CEL history if you can, and if you have a Bentley's ( the other guys only give you guidance for the least restrictive states) look for the emissions system under exhaust. Also, if all your original engine bay decals are intact, they should have a diagram of the vacuum routing and listing of the emissions tune up spec they are following. "Soft" fails for the CEL are degraded components that still perform, but have a problem. Without an actual reader for the system, you will only get the indications of the "hard" failures. The soft fails will not be displayed.

 

Alright, the latest news is that I have installed a new fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor and gapped and installed new spark plugs. I looked through the service records and could not find any mention of replacing the timing chain (Green Machine has 158K on the clock) so I bought one of the masterlink ones and am holding off on the oil change until I change the timing chain.

So my question is: Do I need to have anything else ready to do a timing chain job other than a new valve cover gasket? TIA

 

A beer would be helpful....

 

might want to make sure you don't need a gasket for the valve/timing cover interface. Also make sure you run dabs of sealant where you have surfaces meeting with no filling seal.

 

So, I am still getting ready for a timing chain replacement. Got to order a new valve cover gasket and I was told I should replace the timing chain tensioner too. eEuro has 2 kinds of tensioners (Genuine Saab or Scan-Tech). Can anyone make recommendations on either?

or a recommendation between the VC gasket (Elring or Scan-Tech)
Thanks

 

For rotating components (chains, gears, etc.) I have seen no evidence for DD's to not use the less expensive scan-tech parts. For people who are pushing their vehicle hard, like Iron Joe and others, they will probably look for original, or racing upgrades to their engines. Please make sure you change the timing chain gasket and use a form in place seal in the corners where there are mating edges as opposed to mating surfaces. Good luck and remember, a little patience will pay off much better for this task. Beer/tea/soda breaks when you start getting irritated for some reason will save you trouble later.

 

Please make sure you change the timing chain gasket and use a form in place seal in the corners where there are mating edges as opposed to mating surfaces.

I purchased a timing chain with the master-link so I didn't think I needed to take off the timing cover. I could be wrong...I have never tried this task before. Can't I just take off the valve cover and feed it through there?

As always, much thanks for your advice.

 

Phantom sound from rear end.....

no...not my ass making phantom sounds!

My rig has a sound that appears to be coming from the driver's side rear wheel. Its repetitive nature increases with RPMs. I jacked up the rear end, took the wheels off and inspected the brakes. Thought maybe it was a warped rotor or a sticky caliper. All seemed to be fine. My question is, do wheel bearings make noises like this when the go bad? Any way to test them? TIA

 

Jack up the rear wheel, parking brake off (later 900's). only have to have daylight under the wheel to do a gut check. Rock the wheel like you would to check for ball joints and A arms. If you feel a 'click' or 'pop' when you rock, have someone else look to male sure nothing else is moving. If you are familiar with the sound of pads dragging over disc, you can rotate the wheel and listen for any other sound. If you have the noises/movement, it's more than likely going or gone.

 

So the latest chapter in the saga is that I took a drive up to Jacksonville, FL saturday afternoon. I got off the highway and was just getting into town when I lost my clutch at a traffic light. People were yelling and cursing me as I was holding everyone up. After 3 cycles at the light, I found first and limped the green machine about another mile into an apartment complex in a rough neighborhood. I called Ted at AIT (an indy saab shop in Jax) and said I needed some help. Within about 15 minutes Mike from the shop showed up in his c900 and rescued me any my green machine. We went back to the shop and they dropped everything and rebuilt my slave cylinder right then and there. I had never met these guys but they went out of there way to do me a "solid". We ended up chatting for a while and they showed me their saab racecars and then we went out to dinner. Great guys and a solid shop, not too far off route 95 if you are ever in the area I highly recommend them.