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9000 anti-theft system trolls

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7.8K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  JZW  
#1 ·
If you know the saab 9000 anti-theft system pretty well, then you may be able to help me. If not im going to bury my head into a saab book for a couple of days until this gets sorted out.

I haven't ever had a problem with any wiring in my car yet, so hopefully its an isolated mistake on our part somewhere.

Known issues so far:

- Door locks acting up. If you put the key in to unlock the car, it unlocks and then locks again automatically. Works the same the other way.

- Power to ECU being cut. When you put the key into the ignition and turn it on, the power goes to the relays as it should and gets to the alarm and then the alarm system cuts power out to the ECU.

- Once we run a direct power to the ECU, the ECU refuses to properly ground the fuel pumps. If we ground the fuel pumps and run power to the ECU, the car runs fine.

- When we ground the pumps, the cooling fans come on and wont shut off until we pull the battery.

- At first I wasn't in the shop and they called and asked what to do. I suggesting checking to see if the steering column had locked - it had. I told them how to unlock it and then it sent power back to the ECU and TPS etc. Then they let it sit over night before attempting to start it (it was late when we finally talked) and then in the morning it had no power again. Now it doesn't matter what we do, nothing works.

Suggestions?
 
#5 ·
Do you have the diodes on the relay wiring? Sounds like it is feeding back. Or maybe the diode you had was not capable.

You should have all those notes from the manual.
Actually its funny.... My NIRA didnt come with that manual on the CD and I didn't know that it was supposed to. We had my car running before I found out about it and then I recieved it VIA email.

I asked multiple people about the diod with the fuel pump relay and no one could tell me what negative things could happen by not doing it. I even asked one of the guys I met that helped develop NIRA and ran it on his saab before it was even released. The answer I got? "I haven't ever heard of having to do anything like that"

I know its to prevent any unwanted feedback to the ECU, but what happens without it? Does the ECU just not ground it if its getting feedback? I just dont like doing things because im told to, so I like to find out why. :) Maybe thats causing the fuel pump grounding issue?

Any idea on the theft system? I know it has to be something stupid that we just messed with while doing the intake manifold/ throttle cable/ ALS/ modifying my injector wiring.
 
#8 ·
Theft system should only interrupt starter.. I have to look on the 97 though. Depends on how it is wired. On my 95 nira car I built a harness to keep the stock wiring.
on 9000's the ingition/ steering column lock will cut power to the ECU until you unlock the steering column with the key. I need to grab my book and see exactly how this all works...
 
#7 ·
Yeah mine is a direct plug and play wiring harness so none of the stock wiring was affected. The only things we did were:

- extend injector wiring to easier install and uninstall the intake manifold and fuel rail

- wire in a resistor box to run low-impedence injectors

- run wires for ALS

- splice in T7 BPC

- Splice in and add a new end for a 3bar map sensor

- EGT + Wideband were added
 
#10 ·
Sorted out my fuel pump problem and it is actually unrelated to the fans. That should be fixed shortly too.

I believe my alarm system problem to be related to the door handle locks not functioning properly, the hood switch, and the previous fuel pump relay issue. I would go fix it today but im being lazy. Im going to clean up my 900 EMS instead and get it ready for daily driving! :)
 
#12 ·
Id love to just go put it on the dyno but this alarm thing is messy. I think in the morning im going to go molest a parts car so I can do a process of elimination of a couple things. It shouldn't be difficult but I really don't want to deal with it right now!

K
 
#13 ·
Okay so I went down and tested some of the alarm system today. These are the area's I have eliminated from causing the problem:

Hood switch
All door switches
Glass breaking sensor
Remote
Remote sensor
Lock switch
Door lock cylinders in two front doors
NIRA system completely eliminated by returning to my stock ECU.

The locks work normally when locked/unlocked from Remote or button in the center consol, but work out of normal operation when you use the key in the door handle. I changed the door handles and keys out with ones from a parts car and it did the same thing. I believe this to be a RESULT of the problem and not the CAUSE. Anyone have any insight into what would cause this?

Thanks
K
 
#19 ·
Okay so I went down and tested some of the alarm system today. These are the area's I have eliminated from causing the problem:

Hood switch
All door switches
Glass breaking sensor
Remote
Remote sensor
Lock switch
Door lock cylinders in two front doors
NIRA system completely eliminated by returning to my stock ECU.

The locks work normally when locked/unlocked from Remote or button in the center consol, but work out of normal operation when you use the key in the door handle. I changed the door handles and keys out with ones from a parts car and it did the same thing. I believe this to be a RESULT of the problem and not the CAUSE. Anyone have any insight into what would cause this?

Thanks
K
Have you tried pulling the fuse for the entire central locking system? See if that eliminates the issues and if it does, you know its related to that system somewhere. My central locking system in my ng900 stopped working, that is if you try and put a fuse in it, it blows the fuse. Have not had it operational in 2 years!

John
 
#14 ·
Have you tested the lock actuator it self? Or is it called something else in that list.

Also, does it happen when you manually lock from both driver and passenger doors, or just one or the other?
 
#15 ·
The lock cylinders in the door handles have been tested by replacing the door handles and lock cylinders with ones from a parts car and it didn't change anything... Door locks work normally when locked any way other than the key in the door. Manually hand locking and unlocking the doors from either side works just fine. ;)