addendum to above

One thing I was wondering. Given the car has K-jet and each injector can connect to any one of the 6 ports on the fuel distributor, how possible is it to re-shape the braided lines using something like a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the areas that need to be straightened out?

I think three of the four lines will be fine but one of them will be a bit of a problem. It might need to be flexed too much from it's present shape to reach where the injectors fit into the intake manifold.

I suspect that when I drive the car the bends would 'un-bend' themselves somewhat due to the heat in the engine bay resulting in lines that are more straight-lined.

Here are two pics of what I did yesterday:

flickr page

flickr page

Craig.

 

Wow, those look great.

 

Those look great! Next time I'm at the wreckers, I'll have to investigate some VW for their fuel lines!

Could the one line that requires more bending come over the engine near the oil cap? I wouldn't think bending braided lines using a fuel line bender would be an issue (however, I'm not expert on the matter).

 

Those look great! Next time I'm at the wreckers, I'll have to investigate some VW for their fuel lines!

Could the one line that requires more bending come over the engine near the oil cap? I wouldn't think bending braided lines using a fuel line bender would be an issue (however, I'm not expert on the matter).

I tried a few different configs where various lines go to different injectors and came up with what I think will work.

BTW the lines I bought come from the Ebay seller 'moogie2498' and I decided to try the ones sold as 'VW Mk2 85-88 Golf Jetta 1.8 8V CIS Fuel Inj. Lines NEW!'. The same person has some others which look straighter (less pre-shaping bends) but I wasn't sure about actual length as the seller couldn't tell me.

Same seller has new banjo's (which you can see on my fuel distributor) for attaching the lines, and quite a few other braided lines so I am probably going to replace the WUR and CSI lines as well as the one from the fuel filter to the intake port of the fuel distributor. I also got a replacement gasket for the air metering assembly (to replace the cork one) and a couple of sets of copper washers as I'm replacing all those as I go too.

BTW I found that when I looked as turning the air filter box around to position the air intake port to the box at the back, the line from the fuel filter to the fuel distributor gets in the way and the standard snorkel pipe won't fit as the housing for the air metering unit blocks it.

So I haven't repositioned the air box yet (necessary to look at installing a T16 intercooler later on).

Craig.

 

Keep in mind, that stainless is an over-braid. There is still some sort of plastic/rubber line under it. The stainless is not what is keeping the liquid in there, so although they are flexible they can certainly still break and leak if bent too far.

 

I believe they're braided teflon.

Craig.

 

Ok well I'm happy to report that the engine runs now that I've connected all the fuel lines and re-assembled the air metering unit with a new gasket. Alternator is complaining (I think it needs a rebuild or replacement) and there's a stack of smoke coming out the exhaust (not really sure if I'd call it blue or white but we've had a lot of rain and the temp is very low) so the engine itself might need attention.

However the car is now drivable again. I've got pics of the braided line config which will be uploaded in coming days as I tried two different mash-ups to get the new lines connected as 'appropriately' as I could to make them neat and also cater for the fact each one is slightly different.

Next step is to replace the lines to the WUR and cold start injector but I haven't purchased those yet and sort out why the brake pedal feels 'soggy'. The master cylinder was replaced two years ago with what was then a known good one.

Craig.

 

update?

 

this is gonna be my answer for replacing the fuel lines on my 84 i've already broken 2 and ya...

 

So I just checked online and you got the vw jetta mid 80s ones. I think the other set the seller sells might fit better? (of course I haven't tried, I'm going to hit up the junkyard this week and if I can snag a set for cheap, I'll test them out).

 

I think the other type might be better but I've got the set I purchased to fit with a bit of trial and error to work out which line should go to which injector to give them the best layout.

Fortunately for K-jet it doesn't matter which injector connects to which port on the fuel distributor, and even more fortunately for me, the 6-port fuel distributor in my 81 turbo had real blanking caps in the two spare port outlets rather than fully-blanked off outlet locations which the one I pulled from an 82 turbo sedan in late 2007 had.

I'm still searching for the right WUR as a re-man or new part. That might take a while.

Craig.

 

c900, Just a thought on your soggy brake pedal. Maybe the previous master filled up the brake booster with brake fluid? Seen it before. I like to update to a '87-'89 master and booster (years may not be correct for your market) if available.
Is that a Porsche fuel distributor? Always heard that was a good upgrade, never had the chance to try it myself.

 

Isn't that just a cis distributor? I picked up the lines today, from an '85 golf, there was an c900 '84 turbo automatic that i picked up 2 lines from as well (the other two broke the second I started touching them...o well). Got the fuel pump. On just a pre test, they are about a foot long, if I take them around like you did they seem to work just fine. Since I don't need them yet, they'll probably sit in a box in the back with the spare fuel pump.