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2.3l NG900/OG9-3 Swap Information

64K views 129 replies 55 participants last post by  charliesnike  
#1 · (Edited)
Since this is such a hot topic - here is the low down, every thing you need to know.

First off, if your looking to swap your 2.0l B204 motor in your NG with a 2.3l B234 motor, your going to want a list of parts to refresh/make the new motor work in your car...here is that list. The items in BOLD are items that are highly recomended to be replaced at the same time as the swap - as they are very common wear items.


From Eeuroparts (eeuroparts.com)
8822033 Cylinder Head Gasket Set
8822041E Valve Cover Gasket
9173576 Oil Pump Seal
9130600 Oil Pump O-Ring
9131145 Timing Chain (Endless)
9145376 Timing chain guide (tensioner)
32000421 Chain Guide

9113937 Turbocharger Gasket
9145418 Main Bearings Set

From the Saab Site

75-88-783 Thrust Washer Set
02-69-304 Rod Bearing Set (9145459)

From Saab
B234 Oil pump gears
B234 Piston rings

Second, the list of parts which you MUST use of your old B204 motor to make the swap possible.

W/ Complete B234 (block, head, manifolds,timing cover etc.):
B204 timing cover
B204 intake manifold (inc. throttle body)
B204 exhaust manifold
ALL B204 accessories (ie water pump, oil pump, oil pan, alternator etc...)
NG900/9-3 transmission
NG900/9-3 clutch and flywheel assembly
NG900/9-3 oil pan

W/ B234 Block only
B204 head
B204 timing cover
B204 intake manifold (inc. throttle body)
B204 exhaust manifold
ALL B204 accessories (ie water pump, oil pump, oil pan, alternator etc...)
NG900/9-3 transmission
NG900/9-3 clutch and flywheel assembly
NG900/9-3 oil pan

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is it a direct swap?
A:
Yes, as direct as a motor swap ever is. The B234(2.3l) and B204(2.0l) blocks are physically IDENTICALevery dimension, every screw hole, every mounting bracket, the two blocks are identical. The difference is in the internals, the B234 gains its extra .3l of displacement via a longer stroke than the B204 motors.

Q: Which B234 is the best?
A:
For a B234 swap in a NG900 you MUST use a B234 from a 93.5-98 9000. It must be the "short block" version of the motor, a term used by Saab to describe the physical length of the blocks, i.e. VS the older C900 long block motors. Also, not to be confused with short block (block only) and long block (block, head, manifolds etc...)
YOU CANNOT USE A B234 from a NA 9000!

Q: Which B234 is the Aero motor, is it different?
A:
B234R is the Aero motor, however its physically the same as any other B234. The differences are in the turbocharger and software. If your looking for a complete Aero motor for the turbo as well, you want the B234R.

Q: What transmission do I use? Clutch, flywheel?
A:
The drive train stays the same, you use the NG900/9-3 transmission, oil pan, clutch andn flywheel.

Q: Do I have to get it tuned?
A:
While it may not be necessary right away, its highly advised. The stock software, or any aftermarket software designed for the 2.0l B204 will not know how do handle the extra fueling required for the 2.3l B234, nor will it provide safe boost maps for the new motor; exponentially increasing the chances of leaning out and or hitting detonation.

Q: Will my stock clutch work?
A:
If you drive like your grandmother, this swap isnt for you...but if you drive like a true enthusiast - it wont last you to your local convience store and back.

Q: What else should I do while I have my engine bay out?
A:
Its the perfect time to clean up your engine bay and do any other modifications/updates you wanted to do. My top sugestions would be:
1) Full motor refresh.
2) Re-surface flywheel, replace clutch disc and pressure plate with an uprated version.
3) Hydraulic clutch swap for the NG guys
4) Updated shift linkage for the pre 97 guys
5) Replace slave cylinder and throwout bearing

Helpful Links

Dip's Site:
http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/

Specifically on Dip's site:
Engine Removal
Engine Install
Accessory Install
Engine Assembly
Crankshaft/Pistons
Cylinder Head

Parts:
www.eeuroparts.com
www.thesaabsite.com

Post Install FAQ:

Q: What is the best way to prime the motor after I have finished installing it?
A:
After installing the motor and ensuring everything is correct, coolant and oil levels are at where they belong, unplug the DI cassette and pull the fuse for the fuel pump. This will ensure that when you crank your car over, its not getting fuel nor spark, however the oil pump will run and prime the motor. Crank over 3-4 times in 8-10 second intervals to ensure a good oil prime.

Q: After I finished the install, I started the motor and it was smoking alot, is this normal?
A:
Chances are, yes its totally normal. Oil, coolant and other substances spill and get on the motor during an install like this. Typically the smoke is from such things burning off as the motor heats up. Obviously its a good idea to monitor the car for leaks, coolant and oil levels, but dont be alarmed by some smoke. This condition can last up to about a week depending on how frequently the vehicle is driven. Its not only limited to the exhaust, but the engine bay as well.

 
#2 ·
I think this pretty much covers everything - hopefully somone will sticky it so we dont keep getting B234 questions twice a day. If anyone does have a question, post it HERE, after you have read EVERYTHING! Ill add important/pertinant questions to the first post in order to keep everything relatvily neat/orgainized and easy to read.

And please try and keep this thread as managable as possible - its allready a long one with alot of good information, but we dont need 10 pages of "cool" or "w00t B234 swap" posts to make it an even bigger cluster fuck.
 
#87 ·
rebuild

Great write up.... very informative.

Ok here's the million dollar question.... if the Blocks and heads are the same and the only difference is the crank,rods and pistons then why not stroke the 2.0 motor with 2.3 internals in lieu of swapping the whole block out?
rods and pistons can not slip out the bottom not enough room. a rebuild/ upstroke would have to have 2.3 crank,rods,.
 
#10 ·
Why take the motor out to stroke the block? Pull the subframe and the oil pan, oil pump etc and do the bottom 1/2 of the motor. That is a super common practice in most of the domestic street racing crowds....its just a re-ring and light hone with a bearing journal polish.

I see the point to pull the motor if your motor is totally shot but I still cannot see it if you are just upgrading to upgrade unless I am missing something.
 
#11 ·
You can do that - but new 2.3 pistons and crank from Saab cost an arm and a leg - people who arent doing a full refresh often buy just the block, a low mileage one like myself - and simply swap it in. For the every day back yard mechanic - pulling a motor is a much less daunting task than pulling the crank and pistons from a block.
 
#12 ·
I suppose so... I guess I am just from that old school of small block hot rodding where you have to rebuild a motor over night so you re-ring it and slap a refurb crank and rods in it so you can get to the track the next day.

I also suppose the availability of reground SAAB cranks is pretty limited too. oh well... just had to ask the question.
 
#14 ·
I suppose so... I guess I am just from that old school of small block hot rodding where you have to rebuild a motor over night so you re-ring it and slap a refurb crank and rods in it so you can get to the track the next day.

I also suppose the availability of reground SAAB cranks is pretty limited too. oh well... just had to ask the question.
how do you put new rungs in from below tho? i dont see anyway a ring compressor would work. and you would have to take the tranny off anyway which is a pain to do.
 
#20 ·
you cant remove the flywheel without removing the clutch plate, you cant get to all the bolts without moving the trans alot....to slide teh trans you have to disconnect everything like your going to take it out...so its pointless...ive done it trust me. you have no room to work.
 
#18 ·
Notice the end of the block in the picture.. the flywheel can be removed with trans in place once the guides and bearing caps are removed and out of the way. It should be necesary to slide the trans back slightly to gain full access from what I can tell.

I will say I have done an in car service on a Saturn 1.9L and it uses an almost identical block as the B2x4 series and I did not have to pull the trans so I assume (although having not done this on a SAAB) that it would be very similiar.

Image
 
#22 ·
Excellent information, Ryan. You may want to edit and include the Vaseline in the oil gears for priming, once you run the engine for several minutes the oil can be changed. This removes all of the dirt from the engine being open and the vaseline to prime the pump.

For the record, here is what I used. There were a couple of things I think you may have not included that are wise to include. Just a few seals, o-rings, and coolant hoses! As coolant goes through millions of times the hoses have a tendency of weakening and they'll break spontaneously. Ask me how I know this.

1 Drain Plug Kit (magnetic) (9132929K) - $5.99
1 Crankcase vent hose (9189465) - $5.30
1 Cylinder Head Gasket Set (8822033) - $64.90
1 Upper Radiator Hose (4964789) - $8.99
1 Expansion Tank Hose (to engine) (4961363) - $8.90
1 HEATER CORE INLET/OUTLET HOSES (4961074) - $16.90
1 O-ring (9146598 ) - $0.99
1 Water pump O-ring (9146614) - $2.29
1 Water pump O-ring (9146606) - $1.49
1 Oil Pressure Sensor (9112459) - $3.99
10 Head bolt (5955794) - $3.60
1 TIMING CHAIN (with master link) (9321845) - $43.90 - - - - GET ENDLESS NOT WITH MASTER LINK!
1 Timing chain guide (tensioner side) (9145376) - $19.90
1 Timing chain guide (exhaust side) (9145350) - $19.90
1 Upper Chain Guide (8859324) - $6.59
1 Rear crankshaft seal (behind flywheel) (9174202) - $12.90
1 Selector Rod Seal (8741878 ) - $10.00
1 Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring (9138009) - $4.80
1 Oil Pump Seal (Front Crank Seal) (9173576) - $4.19
2 Differential oil seal (5spd) (8749046) - $14.90

Also oil pump gears, as you mentioned. There are also a couple of hoses not in the list I didn't replace accidently. They're still on the list. Also, make sure PCV check valve is in good working order. That's all I can think of off the top of my head.

Edit: If you're going to leave the balance shaft system, all components should also be replaced - this includes guides, sprockets and the chain itself.
 
#28 ·
Seems trivial, but don't you also need the crank pulley from the original b204? I know the b234 uses a different crank pulley.

Also, anybody manage the swap without dropping the trans?
 
#29 ·
Yes, you do need the original crank pulley, as well as everything that bolts on to the timing cover.

And I imagine it should be possible to pull the engine without physically removing the gearbox from the car (if you can find a way to suspend it there), but I don't see why would anyone do such a silly thing. It's neither natural, nor convenient ;]
 
#31 ·
ok so i have a 94 ng900 with a 2.0l turbo if i bought a 2.3l NON turbo motor from a 96 ng 900 could i just swap the block into my motor and boost it, or are the compression ratios different in the 2.3 na and 2.3 turbo blocks? which block do i need to covert to a 2.3l i know the heads are the same please someone help i am confused :( -Jeff