both instances that I had problems with my ebrake, replacing the cable fixed it. Now my NG has the ebrake locking up in reverse, so i sprayed pb blaster on the lever and it unlocked it. I will have to replace it at one point, but I'm pretty sure the cable will do it.
why did my e brake die?
so when my dad owned the car like 2 years ago, he got stuck at work one night because the e brake locked up.
we added an extra spring which helped for awhile, but i really just never used the e brake.
today, it got so damn stuck it wasnt even funny. after releasing the handle in the car the drivers side cable was still absolutely taught to the point that if i tried to back up the tire would just drag.
i hammered and pulled on the cable and the piece the cable connects to with no luck and wound up just cutting it so i could drive.
is this all a function of a cable binding or is it something in the shoe and release spring behind the rotor? or do i need rear rotors?
id like to just replace the cables, but im afraid this will still happen, yet dont want to just replace every damn part in there.
we added an extra spring which helped for awhile, but i really just never used the e brake.
today, it got so damn stuck it wasnt even funny. after releasing the handle in the car the drivers side cable was still absolutely taught to the point that if i tried to back up the tire would just drag.
i hammered and pulled on the cable and the piece the cable connects to with no luck and wound up just cutting it so i could drive.
is this all a function of a cable binding or is it something in the shoe and release spring behind the rotor? or do i need rear rotors?
id like to just replace the cables, but im afraid this will still happen, yet dont want to just replace every damn part in there.
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i would love to just do the cable since its only 50 bucks and i dont think it would be too much work.
the mechanism on the actual wheel that the cable attaches to appears to work well enough.
the mechanism on the actual wheel that the cable attaches to appears to work well enough.
There you go! If the ebrake functions downstream of the cable at the hubs, then your problem is in the cable itself. There are rubber guards that prevent moisture from entering the cable ends but its my experience that these freeze in the winter slush and the first time you pull the cable you rip the ice and the rubber at the same time, then it's only a matter of time before the water wicks up and... given the length of the cable, rusts solidly in place.
My solution for the NG / 9-5 ebrake woes is to either not use the ebrake at all (which has its own problems) or to just drive my 9000.
My solution for the NG / 9-5 ebrake woes is to either not use the ebrake at all (which has its own problems) or to just drive my 9000.
On mine the issue was also the small arm inside the wheel as well as the cables. Both were rusted solid. New cable and some sandblasting fixed it.
on our 99 9-5 the problem is the cable. as stated above the rubber on the cable where the metal inner cable comes out of the sheath.. it degrades over time. E-brake works fine in summer, but in winter water gets in there and freezes!!! The cable will not budge until the car is really warmed up, then it works fine.
I also had to rebuild both sides with new shoes and hardware, but that is a whole unrelated story.
I also had to rebuild both sides with new shoes and hardware, but that is a whole unrelated story.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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