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Trollerator
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
had to adjust my wastegate, lengthened 4-5 turns trying to get my new ECU to work. A mechanic did this for me....

Now that I know it was the ECU, not my hardware, I have to adjust it back to normal. I did 4 turns shorter to be on the safer side, but can anyone tell me if this looks right, is this stock or close to it? If you have a pic of yours that might help. i am trying to learn to do these types of things myself, it helps to have some help now and then. :wink: So now where the rod meets the little latch makes a 90 degree angle, i am hoping this is stock position....

see my crude illustration to see what I mean.

then later today it is off to the dealer to get a new retaining clip, it flew off during this operation and it was lost either in the engine bay, or in the grass next to the driveway. I searched both, it just totally vanished. and I somehow I knew with my luck that this would happen. The stupid clip costs 3 dollars. similar clips cost 1 dollar for 30 anywhere else. Sheesh! :roll: :roll: :roll:
 

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Trollerator
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Car has been feeling laggy so i adjusted it another two turns shorter. I don't know if this is too far, but i don't want to have too laggy response, either.

Anyone know a simple way to set base boost? I saw a procedure for a 9000 aero with basically the same turbo, but they require a boost guage, and they say take the end piece off, screw it on 3.5 turns, and then adjust from there after you determine the boost by reading a guage.

Or better yet, anyone have a few minutes and could snap a nice close-up high-res photo of the wastegate rod (if yours is still stock setting), so i could see how many threads are showing on the screwed on end piece?

I have no boost guage so i am just guessing here....and don't wanna have a big problem when I put my Maptun box back in if the WG can't open quick enough... i put my stock box back in for an oil service, good thing because they updated the software for free and it runs much nicer.

sorry for the rambling. can someone help a Saab brotha out?
 

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i wouldnt adjust it without a boost gauge
just because it feels laggy doesnt mean there is anything wrong..... unplug your negative battery terminal for 15 min then plug it back in and see what happens...... this changed my fuel map on my car until i drove around for a while.
also remember your car reprograms itself so dont think that there is something wrong...
 

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Trollerator
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is not so much because it FEELS laggy, it is because i KNOW it was adjusted too long.:!: I just don't know exactly how long... :shock:

the first time my maptun chip did not work, the mechanic thought it was my turbo, and he adjusted the wastegate )lengthened rod to decrease base boost) several (4-5???) turns...

then i find out it is definitely the software, So I turned it back 3 or 4, then another two. I have lost base boost completely. I don't know how many times exactly they turned it to lenghthen it, so I am guessing how many times to shorten it. :roll: i may just lenghten it a turn or so, to be on the safer side. But it would be great if someone had a pic so i could see how many threads are showing on the screw/endpiece on an unmodded 9-3 td04 turbo.... then I feel at least my guess would be a more "precise" guess....
 

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Do this for now. You won't need a boost gauge for this.

With the WG actuator arm disconnected, note the position of the WG lever in the closed position. This would be as far towards the actuator as possible.
Now, note the hole center position in relation to the pin. You should adjust the end piece 3mm(millimeters) shorter for the center-to-center distance.

This also means that you have to pull against the spring action of the actuator to get the end piece fitted. (I peeked in the SAAB manual at the dealership for this dimension). This is just the starting point.

Now, take the electrical plug off the solenoid valve, and go for a couple of runs. This will set the base boost. :)

Now put the plug back and do a couple of adaptation runs. This should get you in the ball park. :D

To get the best of the turbo, keep adjusting the WG rod 1/2 a turn shorter each time, and go for a run. When you hit fuel cutoff, back off 1/2 a turn and set it there. :idea:
Note that this setting is also dependent on the weather, as it gets colder you will find you may be hitting fuel cut-off and have to re-adjust again.

I don't have this problem here, it's hot :twisted: all the time in Bangkok. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks, Vincent.

what is the point of removing the electrical connector and driving around without it? and then doing some runs with it? Is that essential?

p.s. that solenoid id the valve with the three hoses coming off the front of it, right?
 

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Yes, the solenoid valve is the one with three hoses coming out from it.

When the electrical plug is removed, it is basically a LPT, that is, you're only running at base boost. It gives you a fair idea where you are in terms of boost levels without a (calibrated) gauge. If you have a gauge available, it should be 0.40 bar.

The other purpose of running it with the plug off is that it gives the ECU an idea as to the baseline for the boost. So, when you put the plug back and go for your adaptation runs, the ECU has a starting point.

One point to remember is that if your base boost is set too high, the ECU will go into negative adaptation, so you may not get full boost at WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so then, it would be better to have it set too low than too high? The ecu will adaprt upwards if it is set too low? But it sure felt laggy before!
 

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The 3 mm of spring tension is to hold the WG shut. Any less than that and it's probably half open already, you won't make much boost.

A quick test: remove the hose that goes to the WG actuator, and go for a run. By removing this hose, the WG is closed all the time.

You should get wild, almost uncontrollable boost, and can hit the electronic fuel cut-off.

If this does not happen, your WG is either open, or you have a leak in the turbo plumbing.

Don't forget to put the hose back after the test!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't know guys.

I put my Maptun box back in and did not adjust the wastegate. I took it for a spin and it feels out of control. no lag, just pulls so hard i almost wet myself. Like it felt BEFORE the mechanic fiddled with my wastegate, when I had the first Maptun chip where the fuel cut was not raised. then he turned the WG down to try and fix it. but he chip was the problem, and I got the new chip and forgot to fix the WG, and i was like "at least it doesn't hit cutoff, but it is a bit laggy and does not pull like the first stage 1, oh well...I guess this is normal..." (sounds like the WG was slightly open or something like you say, Vincent???)

now it is back to that "wet your pants" boosting. I did not hit a fuel cutoff, but then again I could not find enough traction to really push the car anyways. It was 50 degrees, a bit damp from last nights rain, felt more like 40 something degrees, and the car was boosting so hard in Sport mode (silly fast mode) it really scared me good.... :shock: :shock: :shock:

I kind of like it. If i am in no danger of hurting the engine (even upgraded ECU has a fuel cut, just raised higher, right?) i think I will keep it like this. :lol:

(ok, for real though, does it sound like it needs a turn down? maybe to be safe I should turn it down a half turn or 1 turn?) it is just a PITA to adjust the thing, the car takes too long to cool down enough to get in there! :evil:
 

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I missed your post.....cause I'm always in the performance side.

If you haven't finished adjusting your wastegate, Locate your base boost information. Typically what I'm seeing for t5, t7 is about 5-6psi (actually what Maptun seems to base their tuning off for t5's at your stage, not sure about t7)

try buying one of those radiator pressure pumps or a bike pump with a meter that has small enough increments/gradiated levels for psi readings relative to 5psi. disconnect the wastegate linkage, and the hose for the actuator off the boost controller. Connect the pump to the line.

watch where the arm ends up; with the flap closed, center of eyelet is where you adjust your linkage to connect to. That ought to be a rough start.

you could test drive, and watch the boost gauge in your car...I think you have to accelerate hard around 1500 or so for max boost, then hit the brake while keeping your foot on accelerator, and you car drops to base boost you can read. Something like that.

You might be able to find something on a web search, for SAAB's preferred method..but then again it may be time for a dyno run.

I believe turning in raises, but turning out lowers...but located the following.
if it helps.
bar/ PSI per full turn
2.3 Turbo (except manual Aero) 0.03/ 0.5

Aero (manual) 0.05 / 0.75

2.3 light-pressure turbo 0.03/ 0.5

2.0 light-pressure turbo 0.03 /0.5
('92-'93)

2.0 light-pressure turbo with
intercooler ('96-on) 0.03/ 0.5

2.0 Turbo (non-Trionic) 0.02 /0.25





good luck..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks, DC.

What I have done is set the wastegate so the rod just slips on to the lever/latch with no pulling against the spring action of the WG arm. then, I shortened it (added preload) 3.5 turns. that seems to be the consensus as to how it is set factory.... or the closest to it without using gauges... I unplugged the boost control solenoid and drove the car about 30 miles, did all the hard acceleration, and boost was just about center of the orange/yellow, and the car got a chance to adapt a bit. Then I plugged the solenoid back in and it seems to run well. I guess that will have to do.

when I can decide on what guage I want, I will "do it right" :lol:
 
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