Vented Valve Cover Project *Pictures*

why not replace the piston rings to reduce crank case pressures?
cool concept though, looking forward to see if this works out for you

isn't replacing the piston rings much harder to do than this though?

2 things.

1 - the fittings you have are not the weld on type, you will need to buy the proper ones.

2 - have a picture of the underside of the valve cover by any chance? i cant recall if they are baffled, but i have a funny feeling they arent...which will pose another large issue for you.

the rear one is baffled i believe. why does it have to be baffled? Pretty sure not too much oil will get in the fittings. And my performance shop uses these on all their high hp cars. They weld on fine..?

Nice one, man !

All that for a breather, my lord!

lms said:

All that for a breather, my lord!

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seriously - and all because the original setup was doing it's job too - catching oil blow by....

I think you have gone overboard here - are you pushing 400+ whp? A setup like that should be good to about 1500whp give or take a few 100....lol

Curious to see final result - I think 1 of those fittings would have been enough of an upgrade, why do you do when you take turns hard and the oil leaves the engine and fills the larger catch?

On a side note - isn't the catch supposed to be mounted upright - thus the drain on the bottom, not the side? Seems like all this work is going to be for nothing

saabkid37 said:

2 things.

1 - the fittings you have are not the weld on type, you will need to buy the proper ones.

2 - have a picture of the underside of the valve cover by any chance? i cant recall if they are baffled, but i have a funny feeling they arent...which will pose another large issue for you.

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It is not baffled. Only the rear is where it has the 2 J shaped tubes.

9k aero said:

the rear one is baffled i believe. why does it have to be baffled? Pretty sure not too much oil will get in the fittings. And my performance shop uses these on all their high hp cars. They weld on fine..?

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Because the baffle impedes the flow of oil through the vent. If you drill just a hole the pressure will cause large amounts of oil out since it has a direct path.

This is almost like the time when I thought that if I drilled huge holes in my dads muffler, at the age of 14, that the car would sound super cool. All I got was more work in the back yard as I paid to have new mufflers installed, a good verbal thrashing and it sounded like absolute shit!

9k aero said:

the rear one is baffled i believe. why does it have to be baffled? Pretty sure not too much oil will get in the fittings. And my performance shop uses these on all their high hp cars. They weld on fine..?

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you have nothing to stop oil coming out the front two hoses if it is not baffled. i would use a clear reinforced hose so you can see how much, as i have a feeling its going to be a problem.

earls fittings makes specific weld on bungs.

lms said:

This is almost like the time when I thought that if I drilled huge holes in my dads muffler

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it works if done right. on my other car, i made 1 whp by getting pressure out of the valve cover and 3whp by venting to block ports. probably a combo of getting waste gas out of the head that was getting back in on reversion, and relieving pressure.

now of course thats a motor that had no venting otherwise. on a stock car, meh no benefit.

BurnsSide42 said:

On a side note - isn't the catch supposed to be mounted upright - thus the drain on the bottom, not the side? Seems like all this work is going to be for nothing

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picture caption.

And I will be adding a baffle when I have time. Car won't be driven any time soon since I'm still looking for a replacement turbo.

Instead of welding, why not tap the valve cover and use thread-in fittings?

i went to pep boys, sears, and any other place, they dont sell taping kits lol. That was my first plan, but no one seems to sell them so the next best thing is to weld them on.

If you are going to run it that way you need to make some changes. At least swap to a t7 oil pan /or/ weld a return fitting down low but above oil level. Run this to the drain on the can and mount the can vertical on the firewall. You could also drop it into the dipstick. (Easier is to use all the factory oil separator from the T7 cars and be done.)

Venting from the end cover works better. Also a super simple one is to machine an adaptor and use the "distributor hole"

9k aero said:

i went to pep boys.

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oh boy.

GenuineSaab said:

If you are going to run it that way you need to make some changes. At least swap to a t7 oil pan /or/ weld a return fitting down low but above oil level. Run this to the drain on the can and mount the can vertical on the firewall. You could also drop it into the dipstick. (Easier is to use all the factory oil separator from the T7 cars and be done.)

Venting from the end cover works better. Also a super simple one is to machine an adaptor and use the "distributor hole"

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Or go to a junk yard, buy a valve cover without the holes and go back to stock.

lms said:

Or go to a junk yard, buy a valve cover without the holes and go back to stock.

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the method works thats not the issue, the issue is his plan is not very good.

9k aero said:

i went to pep boys, sears, and any other place, they dont sell taping kits lol. That was my first plan, but no one seems to sell them so the next best thing is to weld them on.

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BULL - I KNOW they all sell tap/dye kits! Could have bought a used MAC/MATCO/SNAP-ON from e-bay too....

they only sell a tap if he bought a non ridiculous size.

this plan was just not thought out.

ie - using screw in fittings to weld (which no shops around here will do), when they sell weld on bungs.