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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i will be beginning to put an upper motor mount on my 9-3 tomorrow.. using the 9000 upper mount i have posted pics on the last post here and on my website as well
 

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the benifits are quicker shifting with a manual car... and in some cases (like mine) the torque is just too massive for the original mounts to handle... therefore you need it just to keep the engine in place and to not stress the other mount too hard.. (they'll brake)

The negative part is that sometimes the stress of the cylinder head gets too big. Wich can result in broken gaskets and leaking.
 

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i belive MP is in the process of making one of these for our 9-3/ng900s most likely cheap and easy install...cant wait...
 

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I think Eric had a good write-up on his page for any of those do-it-yourself type folks out there.

I believe it comes off the 99 9000's with some slight modifications...

But if MP does one.., that's where I'm buying mine. Was wondering if Nick has addressed this on his car yet.

regards..
 

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We explored that option when developing a mount upgrade for my Viggen, and later offering it to our customers. You will notice that most of the 9000 people still have to upgrade the trans mount and the 9-3/900 is even softer than those. The main problem is that the gearbox (actually the end where the shift rod enters the gearbox) can move longitudinally away from the lever in the factory soft rubber mount. Tying the belt end of the engine down helps the rocking of the powertrain but does little for shifter precision since the gearbox is still free to move away from the lever. But you are free to do whatever you want. Just sharing what I have learned.
 

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I like that car's engine, I have all his pics. Battery is re-located and same with the air intake.

Where does the mount attach to the motor? Is there already a pre-drilled spot or do you have to make the holes?
 

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rcmdesign said:
Where does the mount attach to the motor? Is there already a pre-drilled spot or do you have to make the holes?
The cylinder head is the same as on the 9000 wich means the head has the mounting holes there already. The question to solve is how to mount it to the chassis. To make it as firm as possible...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
on a 9000 there is a bracket or maybe 2 that come off the strut tower.... but these brackets are welded on to the car... so in a 9-3 or ng u need to put one bolt to the strut brace and make a bracket for the bottom
 

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genuinesaab said:
We explored that option when developing a mount upgrade for my Viggen, and later offering it to our customers. You will notice that most of the 9000 people still have to upgrade the trans mount and the 9-3/900 is even softer than those. The main problem is that the gearbox (actually the end where the shift rod enters the gearbox) can move longitudinally away from the lever in the factory soft rubber mount. Tying the belt end of the engine down helps the rocking of the powertrain but does little for shifter precision since the gearbox is still free to move away from the lever. But you are free to do whatever you want. Just sharing what I have learned.
Agreed. Once you get under the car to instal a nice new Poly version it's pretty obvious where the failings of the stock one are. Now I just need a new rear mount. :oops:

Adrian~
 

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Rear mount is in compression and has not been a problem. If you put a top link on the 3 stock mounts will absorb more shearing force causing more likelihood of failure. This is not the case with running our upgraded trans mount. We have been able to tune out all but just a little of the vibration, it is not a problem. The stock right mount is not a problem either. We are only changing the left mount (the trans side) A new stock mount is $100 so the price difference for a mount that will last the lifetime of the car vs the stock rubber that will fail a few times is a pretty good value to me. It is also a simple 20 min job with no cutting or other silly stuff.
 

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genuinesaab said:
We have been able to tune out all but just a little of the vibration, it is not a problem. The stock right mount is not a problem either. We are only changing the left mount (the trans side) A new stock mount is $100 so the price difference for a mount that will last the lifetime of the car vs the stock rubber that will fail a few times is a pretty good value to me. It is also a simple 20 min job with no cutting or other silly stuff.
Yeah, it took me 15 minutes ... in pouring rain. ;) It's easy. When I combined that with a fresh set of plugs (at least in my case) I couldn't put my keys away! I've been having too much fun. :oops:

It also makes the engine feel more responsive because it doesn't "wait" to catch leverage on the mounts before accellerating. It feels like it's more directly connected to the wheels.

The only drawback so far is that dreaded wheel-hop which, without a subframe brace, is just as bad if not worse. But I only noticed that because it was 40 degrees, pouring rain, and I was trying to go much faster than I should have. :wink: :lol:

Adrian~
 
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