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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks! The best automotive investment I've ever made was this shop! Definitely makes things easier. Hey at least you guys don't get snow in Alabama.
 

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If you're interested, I have two black 1988 SPG doors for sale - $200 - what I paid for them. Bought them from Jim Miller about ten years ago for a 1978 99T I was going to restore. Sold the car, but kept the doors - stored inside a barn out of the weather. I haven't personally laid eyes on them since I put them away, but I'm sure they're right where I left them.

Jim had a drunk driver pull out in front of him sometime back in 2003 and totaled his car, but he saved the doors for a rainy day.

Located in Lorain, OH 44052.
 

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The SPG's got sway bars starting in 85, but I don't think the turbo models did until 88 maybe? I like my 85 w/o them for the windy back roads here in NH. If I did more high speed/highway driving I'm sure I'd wish I had them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Dougsaab, you have PM!

Thanks Cark, I may see about a retrofit at some point, but after I can evaluate it with all new parts.
 

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Looks like the doors have the mirrors with glass intact, outer window scraper seals, door seals, wiring which was unplugged and not cut, exterior trim pieces around the door glass, door handles and lock mechanisms. No window glass, motors or regulators. No rust at the door bottoms and no visible dings/dents on the exterior sheet metal.
 

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If this car was to ever get dropped off at my place, i would cut it a "back in the day" type deal on T5ing it,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Wow, Look at all of the OGs! haha

I've been anxiously waiting to be able to do this resto for way too long. It certainly does deserve it!

Drewz, I've got a complete SPG kit plus a few pieces already, but it's good to know that there are still some floating around out there.

And Mike, T5 is definitely in the plans for it. Probably won't be until next year with all of the work already going on this year. I would love to have you do that work as wiring is not my not my forte. All in due time.

Also, it looks like I'll be getting those doors and patch panels from Dougsaab this weekend! While it's going to be much easier to use rust free doors than fix mine, it does pose another issue.. I was hoping to avoid painting much of the blue. Since most of the rusty areas are under SPG panels, I was just going to fix them up and paint them black.. But now I'm looking at black doors and potentially some fender/hatch areas that the repair will be visible. I can only assume that there is a 0% chance of paint matching these doors to the rest of the car. A friend of mine (who paints cars professionally for a living) was over last night and tossed around the idea of just painting the entire car. The hood, roof, and quarter panels don't really need it, but freshly painted areas would never match right. And he made a good point that if I was ever going to paint this car, now would be the time since it's all apart. Definitely got me thinking.. So much for a quick "get the rust fixed and get it back on the road" kind of project :rolleyes:

So opinions... If (and it is a big "if") I end up having the whole car repainted. Is it worth doing it in Admiral blue and keeping the original color? It's not my favorite color but it has grown on me. I don't know what the value of these cars is going to do in the coming years, but I don't want to potentially ruin it by painting it a different color. Since it's not factory original in many other ways, and not a true SPG or some other rare model it may not even be a factor but OCD it a bitch and makes me question every little choice until progress stops. The dark blue has definitely grown on me, but I would probably go with something with more pearl or metallic. Idk. Just tossing around ideas at this point. Maybe something like Lexus "indigo blue" from an SC430 would be nice.

I am already planning on doing the SPG kit, wheels, and possibly quarter panel vents in the same color that in on the bottom of my LS400. Sometimes it looks grey and sometimes it looks black depending on the light. Would look sharp with dark blue too.

 

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Awesome work here so far! Glad to see you're not letting a little rust scare you off. I've always liked this car and followed along with it before you bought it.

On the paint, I would lean towards getting it re-done in the same color. That way you may be able to get away with not doing a full repaint of the door jambs and under the hood and it won't look like a $200 job.

I used to have an 85 sedan in the same color, so I might be biased.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Rust free doors are back at home! Also very nice patches for nearly all of the rusty areas on my fenders. Much thanks to Dougsaab!

My wife was out of town all weekend, so I was in charge of the toddler. Besides the impromptu road trip to Ohio I didn't get a whole lot done, however I managed to finish removing the rest of the front suspension and all of the wiring harness that goes around the left and across the front of the car. Holy crap there is a lot going on under the hood of these cars! Much more complicated than the basic Toyotas that I'm used to working with anymore. Every plug is labeled so that I might be able to put it all back together.




I was hoping to be able to remove the fuse box or at least loosen it up enough to paint around, but it seems that there is a harness that comes out of it and enters the cabin behind the dash. I'm hoping that I don't have to remove the entire dash to remove this, but not holding my breath...

Also removed the Oil cooler housing and the oil cooler itself.. There was quite a bit of rust on the housing, and one hole. I think it is salvageable though. I'll throw it in the pile of parts going to the powder coater and see what happens. The oil cooler also looks kind of shabby. I may look into sourcing another one.

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Has anyone removed the fuse box (or at least got it loose enough to paint around) without completely removing the dash? I assume that there is no simple disconnect but you have to remove the plugs from every single component under the dash? I'm finding little to no info online about the topic.

Also I think I decided on a color: Porsche Dark Blue Metallic from around 2013

 

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Has anyone removed the fuse box (or at least got it loose enough to paint around) without completely removing the dash? I assume that there is no simple disconnect but you have to remove the plugs from every single component under the dash? I'm finding little to no info online about the topic.

Also I think I decided on a color: Porsche Dark Blue Metallic from around 2013
I seem to recall that harness leading to a number of connectors mounted together just inside the firewall under the left side of the dash. Can't say for certain though.

Nice color. Looks close to the current blue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Thanks, I'll dig into it a little more when I get home.. I'd really rather not pull the whole dash.

That is what I was going for. similar to the stock color, but nicer looking. It still looks blue in the shade (whereas everyone always mistakes this car for black now), but doesn't turn super bright in the sun either. I'm having my painter quote it now.
 

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I am currently in the process of relocating my fuse box. There are a few slide lock connectors that run through the driver side quarter panel. Removing them is the easy part. The more difficult part is removing the engine bay side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tip! I was looking right past them, but there are 3 plugs that go right into the side of the fuse box. popped them off and it came right out.



I was then able to remove the entirety of the left side harness. I think I have a fairly decent handle on the wiring and where everything does when reinstalling. Also figured out why the locks probably weren't working. The connector that plugs onto the door for the locks was corroded to the point that it fell apart in my hands. Hopefully replacing that plug will fix the locks.

Driver's side/front harnesses.. There is so much going on under the hood of these cars!



There is where I hit a snag and stopped for the evening. There is a harness that comes out of the passenger side. It goes from the injectors and top of engine and hooks up to the ECU and other stuff in the car. Besides the ECU, there are no plugs on the other wires. I may end up buying some universal connector plugs and cutting/installing them on the other wires to make removal/install of this harness easier.. Then again the more I thought about it, maybe I was going about it all wrong and need to pull the whole thing inside of the car..




If I can get the remainder of the harness out tonight, I'll work finishing up the removal of the tar from the interior and trunk floor.. That's the goal for tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Also, does anyone have a diagram/breakdown of the vents/ducting under the dash? I think I'm missing a piece, but I can't find a good diagram that matches this car.
 
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