the hardest part is probably gonna be getting a proper pump that isnt insanely priced. ive seen a few setups using Diff coolers from trucks, that seems to be a very similar application as far as oil viscosity goes. basically anything is better than nothing. i was thinking of trying to use the setup that later automatic 900t's had for their trans cooler. mounts just like the oil cooler does, but on the other side.

Paul

 

some people use the Bosch roller type fuel pumps too, those apparently work when you use them for trans fluid.

 

I know that GM has a trans cooler setup on his SPG track car...

I'd be interested in some info regarding a cooler as well. And bracing. When I get around to buying a rebuilt trans, I'd like to make it last.

 

I know that GM has a trans cooler setup on his SPG track car...

Ya, I was hoping he would chime in..

Maybe he can give an idea of a "budget setup"

 

I forget the Summit radiator I used, it was their generic one rated at 400 HP or something like that. It's probably rated for diesel trucks or something like that. Anyways, it was $50 ish for the radiator

I personally didn't want to skimp on the pump so I went with a Tilton pump from Pegasus racing. It was about $210 shipped if I recall

Plumbing wasn't very difficult & was pretty cheap to do.

Due to the skidplate that I use I mounted the pump on the skid plate

When I finally get a new digital camera I will take some pics

 

When I finally get a new digital camera I will take some pics

that would be awsome. i'm incredibly curious about this myself.

i wouldn't be surprised if i'm in palmers same situation soon.....

 

use that gas impeller pump with the 5hp motor!

 

hahahaha!

Gee, That would work...

 

I just didn't want to skimp on the pump because that's what makes the dam thing work. I thought it was worth the extra money for a Tilton pump which many feel are the best, also the only option that I found

I am shocked by how hot the trans oil gets! I have a thermostat whick allows the pump to kick on at 185 degrees & in about 15 minutes of normal highway driving (not more then 50% throttle & 70-75 mph) the pump kicks on. When at the roadcoarse I beleive the oil temp stays in the 240-270 degree area & I couldn't imagine what it was doing w/o the oil cooler. For $300-400, it's probably one of the best upgrades for these cars.

 

Probably a really good idea to find some way to monitor fluid level. With all the extra plumbing it would be a bummer to tear a hose loose and run it dry.

I am going to build one into the new viggen box if there is ever time. I like the idea of a filter too. Keep the "whoopsies" out of the bearings.

 

gm, did you use existing ports on the transmission? i had noticed a plug on the passenger side of mine, could easily be used for a temp/pressure sensor or the start of some plumbing. i had not seen another port to use though and i fear the structural damage that may be done by drilling and tapping a transmission casing.

the manual transmission, i believe, is designed so that the gearing works like an oil pump. lubrication needs to flow through the transmission, unless it is setup to work in some sort of 'splash-lubrication' (i just made that up) then i would expect parts of the transmission to be under (oil) pressure and parts to work as a sump. i have not yet had a Saab tranny apart, so maybe i am making all this up as i go.

what i am getting at is this - is a pump really necessary, or is it possible to use the existing port and existing oil pressure to flow sufficiently through an oil cooler. obviously, an external pump will increase flow and thus, increase cooling capacity.

also, where was the transmission tapped?

i had no idea that my tranny oil was getting so hot!

 

I seem to recall that the transmission just uses oil "flying" off the shafts to lubricate itself.

I also wonder where to port the box. I'm getting a rebuilt 89 transmission, and it should have the removable side plate with the filter in it as well instead of the drain plug. Maybe that would be a good spot to tap into.

 

If I'm mot mistaken the drain plug was eliminated in 1991 and everything from that point on did not have the plug but had the filter in the rear cover.

 

Hmm. I think I want a 1991 box then. I am thinking of tapping into the plate for the trans cooler setup unless there is a better place for it.

I will know about the trans at noon on monday!

 

I think if I would break a line at the track I would know it due to either me being somewhere off into the grass &/or every car behind me doing the same I would probably see the oil temp gauge drastically change

I also was able to use a full gallon of fluid now

 

If you are going to run a pump any way how about putting the return line where the up shift light swich is and then drilling a hole in the lower part of the rear case by the ring gear for the pick up? That would give a pretty good circulation. Also becarefull to look at the engine oil drain plug area on the newer transmissions. As the molds got older the hole for the plug ended up getting off centered and would crack real easy. It was very important to have the correct plug and washer

 

Hmm, that could work. It would also get rid of the stupid shift light.

How thick is the case back there?

 

I'm going to guess about 1/2 to 3/4 thick. I would try to drill and tap a fitting into the caes between the webbing of the case

 

personally if were going to do this i would make a rear diff cover plate out of some 1/4" steel plate, probably with reinforcements to the inner drivers like those pics that were posted recently. then tap into the steel diff cover plate for the intake, probably returning it into the shift light hole wouldnt be a bad idea, since you would get the cooler fluid higher up in the trans, might not make that big of a difference though.

Paul

 

gm, do you have pictures of your setup?

 

Scanwest drilled their upgraded rear diff plate cover on my trans for the oil line fittings. I beleive they sell these covers as well as Davesport for $90 ish, at least that's what it was a year or so ago.

I unfortunantly do not have any pics because I do not have a digital camera. Hopefully in the near future I will finally buy one, my x-wife took it with her

 

Scanwest drilled their upgraded rear diff plate cover on my trans for the oil line fittings. I beleive they sell these covers as well as Davesport for $90 ish, at least that's what it was a year or so ago.

Hmm, I can't seem to find it on the websites...any links?

Or should I just call?

 

I wonder if a trans cooler would work for the 9000 too.

 

Yes it would. Paul @ Automotion has one on red bull.

 

The oil cooler will help because gear oils contain specific high pressure additives so that the oil can provide good lubrication between the meshing teeth of the gears. The additives start to brake down at elevated temperatures the same as motor oils do, and then they coke, and get abrasive, and wear out tranny parts.

According to Torsen, "....gear oils should not exceed 250 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time, or they risk thermal viscosity breakdown." from hwww.torsen.com/

Best,
Drew

 

The oil cooler will help because gear oils contain specific high pressure additives so that the oil can provide good lubrication between the meshing teeth of the gears. The additives start to break down at elevated temperatures the same as motor oils do, and then they coke, and get abrasive, and wear out tranny parts.

According to Torsen, "....gear oils should not exceed 250 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time, or they risk thermal viscosity breakdown." from hwww.torsen.com/

Best,
Drew

 

Flexing of the shafts is what kills our trannies, well the 9k's. I dont see how a oil cooler would "fix" the problem. Is it heat or torque that causes the shafts to flex?

 

The c900 tranny's entire casing will flex under high torque loads, which obviously ain't good for anything, putting stress on a lot of the internals, especially the beloved pinion housing. Boxes like the chillcast 4 speed reduce this flex by bulking up the casing with thick ribs. The shafts flex as a result of this, not any sort of rotational flex (at least not that I've heard of, they can't be that toothpicky!). The oil breaking down just allows more friction between the metal goodies.

 

Torque.


But, having an oil that is in it's proper temprature range will help regardless.

This is not a fix-all, but every little bit helps.

 

I've seen many 9k transmission failures that were not due to layshaft flex. The last three I've seen were: differential failure, differential failure, and differential failure.

 

and the flex of the casing with improperly placed holes cannot be good either. cracks, cracks, and a big old oil leak will surely seize everything sooner than thermally broken down oil.

i did have an idea to solve this flex problem, but it turns out that carbon fiber and aluminum don't match up well. apparently, the aluminum will start to break down, after time, at the points where the CF is touching it. i was thinking to wrap the casing and thus reduce flex. i was hoping for an inexpensive way to help my tranny last longer once i get my built engine and new turbo together.

 

Well, I found this pump:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TIL-40-524&N=700+115&autoview=sku

And this kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-1012&N=700+115&autoview=sku
I picked that cooler because it's cheap. The only thing that worries me is the temp range of the pump...It lists it's max temp at 275 degrees.