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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 95 ARC Sedan, 133K When I start the car(no problems starting) and I put the shifter from park to drive or 1,2,or
L, I have to wait 2 or3 seconds before it goes into drive and it bangs like a u joint is gone but they are not. I had them checked out. I keep my foot on the brake petal when I do this. Very rarely it doesn't bang. It never bangs in reverse. When I get going it shift very smoothly like nothing is wrong. When I come to a red light it down shifts the same way. (smoothly). Would changing the fluid help or is it not the transmission at all??? Thanks again.
 

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2002's had valve body problems. They can be changed out w/o removing the transmission. However, the 1st stem is to do a 3x drain and fill with the right transmission fluid. the 02's began with the use of Mobil 3309 or Toyota Type IV I believe. Do not put in the wrong fluid. Of course I am assuming you have checked your motor mounts and they are all ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Changing ATF

I'm going to put in Royal Purple ATF SYN 3309. I'm going to remove the feeder line, put a 5 foot hose on it, put that end into a bucket, let the car run until the new fluid shows new. I will be putting in new fluid as the car is running. That way I can change all the fluid at once. I did speak to the RP rep and you can use it in my 2002, 2004 95's instead of the Mobil 3309.
 

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The Toyota Type-IV fluid is also much cheaper...

I would not try to change it with the car running like you are planning, if something happens and the pressure pump gets a big gulp or air it could damage the pump. It's not that hard to drain it, fill, run the engine for a few mins and shift it through the gears, and then repeat.

Even the blackest fluid drains clean after the 3rd flush.

The factory literature all says to use mineral based (NON-synthetic) 3309 spec fluid, but if the newer 3309 compliant fluids use synthetic base stock they should be fine since it is tested to meet 3309...

....But the Toyota fluid is cheaper....

;-)
 

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Second/Third using Toyota Type-IV, its about $6-7 (Carquest) a quart where the RP is ~$13 retail (Summit racing). In fairness to the RP rep, they claim that its a replacement for about everything, ie everything looks like a RP solution.

No need to run the car, it will drain out the plug just fine. If you want to change the filter, it will drain faster. As Drew said, fill run thru the gears, rinse, repeat. Which is also why Toyota fluid is cheaper to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know what your saying. My wife bought me a case (12 qts) of RP ATF last year. It's been in the closet. I did buy a case of Mobil 3309 off Amazon recently. I have three Saabs: 2002 95 ARC, 2004 95 Wagon and a 2006 93 AERO sedan. As I said in my first post with the 2002 banging when I put it in drive from park. I thought the RP would help. Does anybody know why it bangs. All the mounts are fine. Thanks again. 95 95 93.
 

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It's usually a sticky solenoid in the valve body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Change ATF Fluid

Thank you. I will use the Mobil 3309. Everyone has got me scared to use the RP SYN 3309 ATF. I'll get back when it's done. 95 95 93.
 
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