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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I'm going to use this thread to ask some questions and maybe get some documentation down on how you can setup your 9-3 to take some track days down.

First: If anyone is serious about taking it on the track, DO THE SUSPENSION because it makes a world of difference. 90% confident a stock powered 9-3 with proper suspension will beat a staged 9-3 with stock suspension around a track.

TIRES!!! Proper tires are huge. This is a main point of this thread. I am most likely going to buy a set of slicks for the track, and am curious if anyone has done this before for the 9-3.

What is the optimal size? 225/45/17? 215/45/17? 235/40/17? or do I step down to a 16" wheel and run a taller sidewall? If I use a 16" wheel do I run the risk of suffocating my brakes? As it is now the caliper barely fits inside the 16" snows I have.

Thoughts?

Feel free to post questions if you are curious about tracking your own and I'll try to answer with the limited knowledge I have.
 

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FWIW: Keep the 17s. Hoosier makes a 215/45 that's legal for most classes but actually is as wide as a 225 at the tread.

Your stock pads should be the first to go. Upgrade your pads to a street/light race compound like Hawk HPS. The difference is huge, especially with repeated stops. I watched Topher's video and there was a high-speed right sweeper followed by a tight right and a couple of esses that probably gave the brakes a real workout... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
FWIW: Keep the 17s. Hoosier makes a 215/45 that's legal for most classes but actually is as wide as a 225 at the tread.

Your stock pads should be the first to go. Upgrade your pads to a street/light race compound like Hawk HPS. The difference is huge, especially with repeated stops. I watched Topher's video and there was a high-speed right sweeper followed by a tight right and a couple of esses that probably gave the brakes a real workout... :)
Yea I also planned on getting different pads.

HOWEVER, I want it to be normal for street, so swapping pads for the track then back again is the only way to do it. Do I need to get a second set of rotors that match the pads? Or is it ok to use 1 rotor and 2 sets of pads?
 

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Yea I also planned on getting different pads.

HOWEVER, I want it to be normal for street, so swapping pads for the track then back again is the only way to do it. Do I need to get a second set of rotors that match the pads? Or is it ok to use 1 rotor and 2 sets of pads?
get rotors to go with pads. so imprints will match. But i would just go with riding track pads on the street to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I need to do some research on tires, there is a lot of info and choices!

Is there a place somewhere that has good discussions about different tires? Reading the user opinions on tirerack is ok but I'd like a little more depth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
get rotors to go with pads. so imprints will match. But i would just go with riding track pads on the street to.
That's what I was thinking. I might take that opportunity to get some nicer rotors as well. My instructor at the SOC track day was a rep for a company that produces performance rotors - they looked like they had their isht together.
 

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You can and probably should use the same rotors for street and track. Our stock rotors are vented cast iron that can absorb a shitload of heat. If you already have slotted rotors, then even better...

If you go with racing pads, only the pad composition changes, not the size, so the imprint issue doesn;t really factor in.

Most guuys I know who track their Bimmers and Porsches just carry extra sets of pads and wheels to the track.
 

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Yeah, but I think it would be a good way to save a few $$$ so you can spend more on the tires...


Anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, but I think it would be a good way to save a few $$$ so you can spend more on the tires...

Anyway.
Truth.

After looking at tirerack there are a few sets of wheels that are under 21lbs for under $150 each, some like $110 so that's not that bad.

*edit :D found one under $100 each for 21.5 lbs!!
 

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Not stupid at all, IF you can get a big enough diameter and a width. Usually works for smaller cars, i.e. Civic's or Miata's as they already came with relatively small wheels.
+1....the only problem would probably be getting them in 16x7, and lighter than the stock wheels at that size....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
+1....the only problem would probably be getting them in 16x7, and lighter than the stock wheels at that size....
Ya I think I'll just stick to the cheapies on Tirerack, looks like some good deals to be had for a little over $100, which is reasonable.
 

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Truth.

After looking at tirerack there are a few sets of wheels that are under 21lbs for under $150 each, some like $110 so that's not that bad.

*edit :D found one under $100 each for 21.5 lbs!!
Yeah, I bought some Tire Rack "House Brand" wheels, Sport Edition F2's...17x7.5, and they weigh about 21lbs a piece....certainly not light, but not terrible either.
 

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http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ great magazine, great forum on their site as well. last months issue had a review of racing tires, they always have great articles about tires and the like. as for the wheel issue, 21lbs is pretty darn heavy if you are serious about the car handling well. i'd probably either step down to some 16's, since theyll be cheaper and lighter, and tires will most likely be cheaper, or spring for some good light 17's.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ great magazine, great forum on their site as well. last months issue had a review of racing tires, they always have great articles about tires and the like. as for the wheel issue, 21lbs is pretty darn heavy if you are serious about the car handling well. i'd probably either step down to some 16's, since theyll be cheaper and lighter, and tires will most likely be cheaper, or spring for some good light 17's.

Paul
Unfortunately the price difference between 20/21 lbs and 17/18 is huge (usually).
 
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