I just stuck mine in the freezer and tapped them in with a big ass ball pein hammer.
Tools for rear suspension bushing replacement
I'm going to replace the rear trailing arm bushings in my 9-5, the cross-stay to hub and front trailing arm bushings. What would be the best tool to press them in?
I was thinking about getting this:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...o?itemid=38335&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=
Any tips would be appreciated.
I was thinking about getting this:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...o?itemid=38335&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=
Any tips would be appreciated.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
I did the upper bushing in the hub using the freezer trick, 36mm 12pt socket (it fits over the dust shield and catches the outer sleeve) and a dead blow hammer. Front trailing arms got replaced with urethane kits and slid right in
UPDATE
I completed the renewal of all trailing arm bushings today.
The front rubber bushing was removed by pushing out the rubber portion with a two-jaw puller, cutting a slot in the housing with a hacksaw, and then chiseling the rest out. It's the same procedure as seen on Dip's saab site. Installation with done with a cold bushing, heated trailing arm, and a big hammer.
The cross stay-to-hub joints were pressed out with a two-jaw puller and a 32mm socket, since we don't care about the boots on the old joints. To install, I used a 36mm socket, per seriks advice, and the two jaw puller. The bushing was chilled and the arm was heated. I found it easier to start with a hammer and finish with the puller. The 36mm socket avoids pinching the dust boot and manages to put the bushing flush with its mount hole. It won't go through the mount hole, at least not the Craftsman 12-point I had).
Lastly, I remounted the trailing arms with the front mounts slid all the way towards the center of the car. It's easier to understand if you look at the bolt slots on the bushing mount. This should give maximum toe-in until I get an alignment.
On a side note, I think eeuro sent me the wrong front trailing arm bushings. The bolt hole was too small, so I had to drill it out with a 31/64" drill bit.
It went smoothly, but it was time consuming. I didn't even need the expensive Vauxhaul Rosebush tool everyone keeps talking about.
I completed the renewal of all trailing arm bushings today.
The front rubber bushing was removed by pushing out the rubber portion with a two-jaw puller, cutting a slot in the housing with a hacksaw, and then chiseling the rest out. It's the same procedure as seen on Dip's saab site. Installation with done with a cold bushing, heated trailing arm, and a big hammer.
The cross stay-to-hub joints were pressed out with a two-jaw puller and a 32mm socket, since we don't care about the boots on the old joints. To install, I used a 36mm socket, per seriks advice, and the two jaw puller. The bushing was chilled and the arm was heated. I found it easier to start with a hammer and finish with the puller. The 36mm socket avoids pinching the dust boot and manages to put the bushing flush with its mount hole. It won't go through the mount hole, at least not the Craftsman 12-point I had).
Lastly, I remounted the trailing arms with the front mounts slid all the way towards the center of the car. It's easier to understand if you look at the bolt slots on the bushing mount. This should give maximum toe-in until I get an alignment.
On a side note, I think eeuro sent me the wrong front trailing arm bushings. The bolt hole was too small, so I had to drill it out with a 31/64" drill bit.
It went smoothly, but it was time consuming. I didn't even need the expensive Vauxhaul Rosebush tool everyone keeps talking about.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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