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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my SPG had a bad habbit of loosing charge over a few hours.

Today I tested for current draw when the car was off. Sure enough I found that it was ~300millamps. I know it should be much lower, around 50mA or so. So I starter popping out fuses.

When I took out the central locking/domelight(iirc) fuse, the current draw dropped to around 100mA, then with that out, the draw dropped to 50mA when I took out the clock/radio mem/antenna fuse.

How do I go about fixing these draws?

After I left the two fuses out, I then proceeded to take a trip around the block.

Oddly enough, I found that the car would kinda die out, but pick it self back up. But also every time I put the car in first gear, with foot on clutch, not moving.....she would stall out. She never did this before.

What the hell??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This was going on before the t5 swap too, right? (the draw) If the fuse is in, do your power locks work?
Well, after....but this just started over the past few months. When I did the swap over the summer, I had no problems like this. With fuses in, the locks DO work.

Try checking the rear/cargo/hatch switch and the grounds in that area.
Will do.

Also I'll add, I just let the car sit over 24 hrs withOUT the two fuses in, and of course she was able to start right up. I also figured out that the odd stalling/shutting off problem was the ignition switch. I'm hoping it was just a bad connection(popped in and out the interior light switch just before it started happening), as the upper half of the switch is new(POS scantech, never worked right).

Tomorrow I'll mess around with more stuff. But if anyone knows of common current draws from these circuits, please let me know.
 

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Go through everything attached to the two circuits at the individual device level (individual lock solenoids, dome light, etc.) and check the positive terminal input to ground resistance. When you find the low values you've found the device(s) that need fixin'. It sounds like you have a partial ground somewhere.

Alternately, if you have access to a good thermal imager and it's cold outside, put a battery charger on it overnight and then start looking at everything on those circuits with the imager; if it's bad enough you'll see the heat it'a making.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Ugh, I figured it was gonna be something like that.

It better be warm tomorrow. Also tonight, I did pop out the interror light switch, pushed down the ignition switch leads, sure enough that fixed the weird stalling/shutting off problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked everything on the Central locking fuse. That is, everything but the passenger side door motor, and the locking ECU it self. Seems to buried under the dash.

I narrowed down the drain on the other fuse to be sorta the two glow shift gauges I have. For whatever reason, they combined were pulling 80mA. So I connected everything back together sans the gauges and central locking.

I'll dig more into it when it gets warmer.
 

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I checked everything on the Central locking fuse. That is, everything but the passenger side door motor, and the locking ECU it self. Seems to buried under the dash.

I narrowed down the drain on the other fuse to be sorta the two glow shift gauges I have. For whatever reason, they combined were pulling 80mA. So I connected everything back together sans the gauges and central locking.

I'll dig more into it when it gets warmer.
You, or anyone else really for that matter, should put any ancillary/aftermarket gauges on their own fuse so that they are not causing a drain on any of the primary/standard componentry...That's why there are always extra slots in the fuse panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It has nothing to do with that.

Its a constant power line. Its always going to pull power no matter what. It was convenient to splice into the radio wiring, and no reason why not to.

I need to contact glowshift. I'm guessing(hoping) theres something wrong with the gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Meaning, the wiring is right there for it. There are no other constant powers around there.

And I'd like you to find me someone who doesn't wire up gauges etc, and NOT use power from the radio. Get off my ass about it. People do it all the time, and theres nothing wrong with it as long as it works. Which in my case is not so... because of the gauges attached to it.

Again, you fail to realize that I would still have this same problem if it were on its own separate circuit. It probably took me 5 more minutes to trace it down, then it would have if it were on its own power. That in of itself wasn't worth running an entire new constant power.
 

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My gauges are wired to the radio somewhere too.

No problems here. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When I have access to a quick jump/dont need my car, I'll reconnect them.

I bet its just the central locking sucking up the juice.
 

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Meaning, the wiring is right there for it. There are no other constant powers around there.
Cigarette lighter....

And I'd like you to find me someone who doesn't wire up gauges etc, and NOT use power from the radio. Get off my ass about it. People do it all the time, and theres nothing wrong with it as long as it works. Which in my case is not so... because of the gauges attached to it.
You're chatting with someone now, and, since you're harping at me like you are, that tells me that you're kicking yourself in the ass because you know you should of done it right the first time (probably thought of it at the time even) instead of half-assing it like many others have, but you caved and did it anyway, so look in the mirror, man, look in the mirror.

Personally, I have always been in the habit of running an independent circuit for any auxiliary componentry (be it in my home or cars) just as a means of preventing myself from having the sort of problem you're now, plus, it makes it extremely easy to trouble shoot a fault and I'm something of an audiophile and don't like to have anything mess with my music, but that's just me.

Again, you fail to realize that I would still have this same problem if it were on its own separate circuit. It probably took me 5 more minutes to trace it down, then it would have if it were on its own power. That in of itself wasn't worth running an entire new constant power.
We hold a different opinion in this regard, so let's just agree to disagree and move on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yup, life.

btw, your name doesnt happen to be Raul is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Glad you remember :)

But that circuit is fused!
 
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