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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I taken on a job, after a lot of nagging from the owner. I'm not so happy to do it, but at the same time interested in to be updated on a "modern" engine. I did a lot of engine jobs in the 70.s, up to the 90.s. So after reading a lot on the internet on headgasket, and timing belt job on a 3.0 V6, I ordered timing belt kit, headgasket kit, waterpump, and new headbolts. I also today oredered the tool kit for the belt. I was hesitating about ordering the tool, since I never needed any special tool before for timing belt job. I ordered it any way, since everybody said it was necessary. After i ordered it, I talk to a guy, and finally I got an explanation why it is soo needed, (except that it makes the job easier) There is a danger, that, when you remove the belt without the loking tool, that the cam makes a snapping move due to the force of the valve spring, and since the valve steem is so tiny on a 4 valve engine, that force is enough to bend the valve, if you have bad luck . I been only doing 2 valve/cylinder engines, and I don't think you can bend those valve steems so easily? I saw the job description here at TSL, for the timing belt, and it seem's a lot easier then what Chilton, and the note that come with the belt kit, say's how to do it. Thank's a lot for that. Any special knowledge about this job from you guy's who have already done it, is appreciated.
 

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1+2 & 3+4 cam sprokets are the same, 2 of the same for each bank that is. Make sure you put the Dowl on each cam back where it came from. This will make sence when you dissasemble, Look closely for the Number to designate where it goes on dissasembly, Lots of Cadilac & Saturn guys know how to do this too. The engine variant is common to those brands also but the belts and Marks are specific to the brand your working on. The Marks on the belts that is. Some belts have Both sets of marks for Saturn or Saab. This gets confusing. I've done the Belts on the Saturns too do to the lack of dealers now. Make sure you have the "Correct" parts for your application. Aftermarket stuff Can Screw you over and waste the valves too if you get it wrong.
 

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This job is really not as big of a deal as it's made out to be. The tool kit is nice to have, but the only tools I use out of it are the cam locks. The cam gears threw me for a while the first time, but as Harvey said pay attention to the #'s or mark them before removal. I generally line it all up, set the tensioner, roll it over a few times by hand, reset tensioner, start the car, reset tensioner. just out of curiosity, why headgaskets? Did this car drop the belt? Do the t-stat while you're there
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Blow a coolant hose, stopped at a local shop, that first refused to even look at the car, because it's a SAAB. (that's why he nagged on me) Finaly they changed the hose, he drove a couple of day's then blow a second house and this time he did not stop in time, overheated. The engine is pushing out coolant by the reservoir. Another shop said it is the head gasket's, I have not checked it out yet, but it sound's right. I do the thermostat, and all bad looking hoses while i'm there. Sometimes you can read to much about a new job, afterwards it's just another engine. I scanned in the doc from Chilton, how to set the timing, I put it in my profil, if anyone is interested. It's crazy complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your help, I feel more convinced that this is going to be less complicated then what I thought for a while. In Sweden we always said this is an Opel engine, here the people I talked to say it's a GM engine? Well Opel is GM, so it's all true? The timing kit is from Continental, the German tire manufactorer. I trust them. Maybe I should do the serpentine belt as well, even if it look's good?
 

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On cars here, if the car is unknown to us we replace the tensioner pulley and brackets too. Too many times we only did the belt and less than a year later the idler bearing goes bad and the customer is pissed and wants it done free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I bought the kit, so I have everything. I will check the torque of the bolts, but will still do the hole job. He talks about driving this car another 10 year's. I said:that's a long time! (and it's a friend of a friend)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok. Has started with this job, and wow...there's a lot of sh.....t around this engine. The little coolant left in the engine was mostly mixed with oil. My suspicion now is that this guy have been driving around for a long time with a leaking oil cooler, and that was made ALL coolant hoses mushy. I hope it is possible to buy all hoses, there is a lot off molded hoses, that can't be replaced with generic one's. Right now I'm building a bracket to lift up the engine from underneath, so I can remove the right engine mount. I put a picture here later, if that would help anybody.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
1+2 & 3+4 cam sprokets are the same, 2 of the same for each bank that is. Make sure you put the Dowl on each cam back where it came from. This will make sence when you dissasemble, Look closely for the Number to designate where it goes on dissasembly, Lots of Cadilac & Saturn guys know how to do this too. The engine variant is common to those brands also but the belts and Marks are specific to the brand your working on. The Marks on the belts that is. Some belts have Both sets of marks for Saturn or Saab. This gets confusing. I've done the Belts on the Saturns too do to the lack of dealers now. Make sure you have the "Correct" parts for your application. Aftermarket stuff Can Screw you over and waste the valves too if you get it wrong.
Yes it made sence when I took it a part. The sprockets are marked (closer to the bolt) with either 1 or 2, or 3 or 4 for the front head, where the dowl should be, and then they are marked the same way (1 or 2, and 3 or 4) around the outer circle, to know which mark to use to time the camshaft. The timing belt is on and it was easy. Well everything is easy when you expect hell. Better this way then the opposite, when you expect an easy job, and it turns out to be hell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
While I'm remembering it I will write down here how I put the Timing belt on. Locked the camshafts with the loking tool, front head easy, because the cams did not "flip" from the right position, they were perfectly still spot on. Rear head harder because the cam's wanted to "flip", I had one finger on a wrench trying to hold 1:st cam in position, holding the loking tool with 2 other fingers (getting ready to push the tool in).
While doing this with my left hand, my right hand was moving the 2:nd cam in position. This was the hard part of it, a third arm or a helper would have been nice. Then moving all 3 pullye's in a position where they are "furthest away" from the belt. (Make sence I hope). Next install the belt, I never had cared about the marks on the belt. Someone might jump on me for that, but that's the way I do it. I thinks it's harder to install the belt, if you have to think about, NOT only to get the belt on there right, if you also have to think about which specific cog on the belt, has to be on a specific cog on the sprocket. Ok, the belt is on, and luckily all is aligned, and I start with adjusting the upper (middle) pulley. I move it slowly with the wrench that come with the tool kit, until it almost moves cam 2, tighten. Move on to front lower pulley, turn it until it almost starts moving cam 4, tighten that one. Go on to the tensioner/pulley, and move that one with an allen key, until the 2 marks are aligned on the tensioner, tighten. Take out the sparkplugs, and move the engine carefully 2 full turns, check that mark are correct, on all cam's, and check the tensioner. Probably you have to aligne the 2 marks again on the tensioner, turn the engine 2 full turns, check the tensioner again. After this I left the car overnight, and when I come back this morning I turned the engine again, and one last time I had to align the marks on the tensioner. I guess it stretched a little during night. This is something that you shouldnt' have to do, but since I had to leave the car overnight anyway, I just went ahead and did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also the washer for the front pulley in my kit was to thin, had to use the old washer. Read just now that the marks on the tensioner should not be aligned, one of the marks should be 2 to 4 mm above the other mark, (harder tension) . I guess to take up some slack, during time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, the car is up running, was rattling from the lifters to begin with, original oil was low so I top it up with diesel oil. (I read here that dieseloil can clean them up, I heard about ATF can clean them up to) After a while when the rattling was almost gone. I change the oil to fully synthetic, and now its quiet. Run it a little bit longer and tempgauge was on the rise. Was going to drive the car home before I give it to owner, but now I had to take it in to the shop again. Checked the temp on the head with an IR temp meter. Perfect: 210, ok, so we have a bad tempsensor. No wonder the other shop said it was blown headgasket! What would you have said if a customer comes in and say's " I have a car outside and it is overheating, my tempgauge was showing way in the red, and then it blow coolant by the cap, and the coolant is mixed with oil now" Unless you are familiar with SAAB's oilcooler and that their tempsensors go bad now and then, you are of course thinking of only one thing: Headgasket. Well, well, I probably did not have to change the head gaskets........but now it's done, and I get paid....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
By the way. usautoparts.net sent me first a sensor! instead of a waterpump. After complaining, they sent me a second timingbelt kit! Lucky that the water pump is on a Cadillac and on a Saturn so Oreilys had one. So now I have a timing belt kit for sale. Anyone interested?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update on the temp sensor. It was air in the coolant connector between the rear and front heads, the sensor is mounted there, and there is also a bleeder plug. The car was sitting overnight, and when I was going to testdrive it further, I looked at the coolant tank and it was low, filled it up with 1 and half quart, and a 15 min hard test drive later, the gauge was liked glued to the middle. So...so far all is well and good. Need's a shifter cable soon, going to put in that, and while I'm there, change the coolant again. Also see if I can flush out moore gunk. Thank's everybody who helped me with advice for this job.
 
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