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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, anyone who has ever had this issue, please chime in. So I' sitting in Pittsburgh traffic for like an hour. (Frickin tunnels!) but as soon as I got out of them and got into town as soon as I parked my car started to overheat.

Popped the hood and fluid was coming out of the cap. Didn't see it anywhere else. I also noticed the fan wasn't on. ?? So, (DON"T EVER DO THIS!) I reached in and flung a fan blade with my finger and BAM! the fan come on, (boy was that stupid) and the temp came down like normal. I added fluid and i started and made sure the fan came on. It did, but then I got a check engine light. ??

I let it sit for the time that it took me to eat dinner, etc. Checked and no leaks, fan came on, all good except the check engine light.

I drove home 60 miles and the car ran GREAT! I mean it was like i got an extra couple of horsepower. (weird)

So at this point I'm thinking the temp sensor is going bad and the car running better is just cause the temp is a lot cooler (58 degrees) then it was this afternoon (75)

Anyone ever have this issue or symptoms and have them related to each other?

I unhooked the battery to reset and see if the light comes back on. If it does i'll go to advanced auto and get it tested for a code...

On another note I absolutely smoked some ricer in a Mitsu eclipse.(Wyotech school is close by) It was all pimped out with a wing, ground effects, exhaust etc. The car pulled up next to me and this girl in the pass. seat was pointing and they all had big smiles on their face?

I thing they must've been called me a yuppie or something, but got a rev of the engine from them while they laughed. I lol and then the light turned green and he took off chirping tire. ( I couldn't resist)

- He got about two car lengths ahead and I floored it with TCS on (and I swear the car never ran better), It just kept trying to hook-up fightintg to stay on the road (I love torque steer) I shifted into second and he might as well have been sitting still. The Viggen just flew by with ease.

(It felt really good) I shifted into third and just kept it pegged till I hit red-line with them fading in my mirror. I slowed about a mile ahead till he caught up, but when I looked over, they weren't smiling anymore. hahaha They all had this "holy Sh!t" look on their faces.
 

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They all had this "holy Sh!t" look on their faces.
Just went through this with an RSX the other day.

Anyways, when my thermostat went, my car overheated, coolant exploded out of the cap, just like your car. I got a check engine light, voltage light, every light you could imagine.

Someone else on here had coolant pouring from the cap, I mentioned thermo, and bam there was the problem. Usually the car will NOT overheat right away, but all of a sudden when it does, it shoots way up. It is weird that your's ran fine after however... how long did you run it afterwards?
 

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Combo car trouble/War Story thread. I like it. I hope this isn't one of those times where "It was running great, even better than before!" Then two days later we see a "Dearly Departed" post... I'm always nervous when something mysteriously fixes itself.

Wish I knew more to help you out. Nice kill, btw. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am almost 100% sure it was the temp sensor malfunctioning causing the fan not to come on and throwing the check engine light.

Connected the battery up today and she ran fine. I have almost 80 miles on since it happened, so i'm hoping it was just a weird wire loose issue or something. I'm going to order a new sensor (only like 15 bucks) just in case, but I checked all the wires, hoses etc and nothing obvious. The fan came on and off as expected multiple times, so......

I really think the performance gain is just from the cooler air. It's been hot the last couple of weeks, then to get a cool night was/ is fun.

I pulled away from a 5 series bemmer today and got the look at the next light. These things just pull like crazy and the front end dances around, it's so fun...
 

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Keep an eye on the fan, I'm concerned because the fan didn't start until you pushed the blade.

So that tells me it had power so the sensor wasn't involved.

Sometimes a motor can develop 1 open winding in the internal wiring.

Everything runs fine and you never know there is a problem until the fan stops on the bad winding. Then it will not restart until it's moved off the bad winding, like you did when you pushed the blade.

I've seen this more with starters but the theory is still the same.

I suppose you could disconnect the fan, meter the leads and check for an open as you slowly rotate the fan. That might confirm this theory.

Anyways, I wouldn't trust that fan motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Keep an eye on the fan, I'm concerned because the fan didn't start until you pushed the blade.

So that tells me it had power so the sensor wasn't involved.

Sometimes a motor can develop 1 open winding in the internal wiring.

Everything runs fine and you never know there is a problem until the fan stops on the bad winding. Then it will not restart until it's moved off the bad winding, like you did when you pushed the blade.

I've seen this more with starters but the theory is still the same. I suppose you could disconnect the fan, meter the leads and check for an open as you slowly rotate the fan. That might confirm this theory.

Anyways, I wouldn't trust that fan motor.
I initially thought that too, but would the check engine light come on for a bad fan? I will be watching it like a hawk, so we'll see. -

On the classic, you can jump the fans on at the fuse box or relay??, (I forget exactly how), anyone know if the 9-3 has a way to do this? I'll try a search when I get time, but that might be the way to check the motor. If it doesn't come on, then use a jump wire to see in the motor works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Found this....

Testing

The fan can be tested with the engine on or off (but preferrably off), by removing first the "Fan Low" relay, and putting a test lead, or a heavy wire jumper between relay socket contacts #30 and 87. A heavier than normal wire or test lead is required due to the large fan current. The fan should now run on low speed even with engine off. The same test can be repeated with the "Fan High" relay. Use Fuse Taps (from RadioShack etc.) or similar flat contacts in the relay socket to avoid damage to the socket.

 
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