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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,
Been having a little trouble with overboost so going to check out the turbo. But I was thinking I might as well rebuild the turbo and fit a forge wastegate actuator. I thought while I was rebuilding I might as well upgrade to a 19T as this thing will be getting tuned a little further down the track.

My question is will I have any issues running the 19T on the stock tune?

Only reason I ask is cause I want to do the turbo, dump pipe and exhaust before I get a tune. I got quoted $2300 for a stage 3 tune but I think this included the abbott racing s/s exhaust.
 

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Hey guys,
Been having a little trouble with overboost so going to check out the turbo. But I was thinking I might as well rebuild the turbo and fit a forge wastegate actuator. I thought while I was rebuilding I might as well upgrade to a 19T as this thing will be getting tuned a little further down the track.

My question is will I have any issues running the 19T on the stock tune?

Only reason I ask is cause I want to do the turbo, dump pipe and exhaust before I get a tune. I got quoted $2300 for a stage 3 tune but I think this included the abbott racing s/s exhaust.
Not sure of how it will run on a stock tune, but it most certainly wont be living up to its full potential. 2300 for a tune is completely retarded, do not pay that for a tune, even if it is a tune + exhaust.
 

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yeah base boost otherwise too much air and some melted pistons
 

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the stock tune will back it down as soon as it sees knock. and probably doesnt ask for more than 11psi.

But, 2300 for a tune it bogus, i know many people who will writes software for 1/10th as much

mike
 

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I know that on T7, you wouldn't have as much of an issue b/c it requests a certain airmass on the stock tune, so even with a different turbo your airmass would remain the same. T5 on the other hand relies on psi if I'm not mistaken so you would be requesting the same psi as your stock turbo, but you would end up with a much higher airmass which will lead to knock. Mike D is right, you'll have knock maps to keep you safe, but they're not meant to be relied on.

So stick with base boost like others said already :p
And you could buy brand new exhaust whether it's JT, JSP, or GS brand new for far less than 2300. What's a tune from JZW cost for t5? $250?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Cheers for all the info guys.

I probably wasn't very clear I just was wondering if I could drive the car on the stock tune with the 19T until I get it tuned or if I'd have to get it tuned right away.
So thanks for that info.

I originally got quoted $3000 for Filter, Abbott racing exhaust and tune but he said he may have a computer that fits my car so then it would only be $2300. I still thought that was expensive considering my last car a V8 I had a full twin S/S exhaust system incl headers and 300cpsi cats, handcontroller for the stock ecu and full custom dyno tune then a second tune 10,000km's later for $3000.
I had a read through ECU project and decided to download T5 Suite so was going to use it to go up to a stage 3 tune using the wizard.

As for my overboost issue its either sticky wastegate or BPC but I thought why not rebuild the turbo, Fit 19T wheel, new cartridge and front housing, Forge wastegate actuator and new BPC and all new silicone lines. Then I know everything is good to run more boost.
I'm going to take off the head and check everything out first this weekend and replace the head gasket as I'm sure its never been done.

I know its not the place to ask but am I able to use any Trionic 5 ecu in my saab if I put a custom .bin on it? Like If I were to say put my stock aero .bin onto an ECU I got from a CSE would it work fine?
Reason I ask is I'd rather keep my stock ECU stock that way if I stuff things up I can just plug it back in and be back to normal.
 

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Yes I'm 99% all T5 ecu's are the same except for the actual bins on them. I know that's the case for T7, so I am nearly certain you will be fine. I never owned a T5 car so that's my 1% missing certainty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cheers! Well I guess theres no harm giving it a go. saab 900 and 9000 parts can be pretty cheap in Aus. Most Aussie Saab drivers don't know bugger all about mechanics and spend small fortunes for new and used parts and repairs.
I got quoted $600 to change the front wheel bearings so bought the bearings and did it myself and cost $230.

Theres self serve wreckers here and the cars are pretty much untouched and they're prices are quite reasonable so a computer is only $25 plus the free extra seat and headlight relays, fuses and seat heater switches that fit in your pockets.
 

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Well if you enjoy 'wrenching' But your Stock '04' is good to 280 hp
Check the thing for play in the shaft.. before.. 'deciding' it needs a rebuild :)
A Forge wastegate actuator is erm.. 'Shiny'
Rare that a wastegate flapper is sticky. Likely your BPC is dying.
Not cheap for a new one.
OEM hosings to the BPC valve are sillycone.. But not brightly coloured therefore not nearly as good.
A DIY ECU reflash 'could' cost you $0 ...just some time following the excellent instruction at the ECU project forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What's wrenching? I guess 280HP will be alright but I've come from a 430hp car so the 225hp if it still is even at that seem's a little dull well very dull.

The shaft has a little play doesn't go forward or back but a little side to side although doesn't touch the housing. I just thought 130,000mile old turbo would be better to rebuild before winding up the boost as the seals would be getting pretty worn.

I couldn't see the value in the Forge wastegate either unless mine has seized which I don't think is the case as it only hesitates sometimes.

What do you mean the BPC housing is silicone but not brightly coloured? I know you're cracking a joke but can you get coloured ones or something? Elkparts have a BPC for $350 new.

The DIY reflash was actually $179 thats for spare ecu, power supply, IDC connectors to solder to the ecu, packet of terminals to connect to ecu port and the usb-can adapter.
Bargain if you ask me if I can tune it right.
 

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Yes I'm 99% all T5 ecu's are the same except for the actual bins on them. I know that's the case for T7, so I am nearly certain you will be fine. I never owned a T5 car so that's my 1% missing certainty.
not true, T5 ecus come in a few shapes and sizes

mostly, 16mhz vs 20mhz, and t5.2.
there are also different chipsets, but those do not matter... untill its time to flash
if it makes you feel better, ive only owned one t5 car, and it was a classic 900
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
not true, T5 ecus come in a few shapes and sizes

mostly, 16mhz vs 20mhz, and t5.2.
there are also different chipsets, but those do not matter... untill its time to flash
if it makes you feel better, ive only owned one t5 car, and it was a classic 900
Isn't there a T5.5 as well? On ecu project for bits you need they recommend a spare T5.5 ecu.

Is there a way to disguise which is 16mhz, 20mhz or T5.something? Probably will have all the info on ecu project I'm guessing will look there.
 
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