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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A buddy of a buddy is selling a TD04 turbo off a WRX for $99.

The car has 85,000 miles and the turbo is working fine, the guy is upgrading to something bigger.

Does the TD04 off a WRX fit a SAAB, especially a 95 900 SE? What would be involved in making it work? Clocking, intake, exhaust, oil lines, ...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies. I'll pass on the WRX turbo then.

Should find a Subauru guy who wants to turbo his n/a and sell it to them - or a Honda guy :)
As a former Subaru guy, I can say most of them know that it's always better to either drop a WRX engine or sell your car and buy a turbo than to turbocharge an n/a car (same as in a SAAB, I guess).
 

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Thanks for the replies. I'll pass on the WRX turbo then.

As a former Subaru guy, I can say most of them know that it's always better to either drop a WRX engine or sell your car and buy a turbo than to turbocharge an n/a car (same as in a SAAB, I guess).
You sure can Turbo an n/a Saab - base boost! You can run 6psi safely on an n/a motor by just adding a turbo and the needed components! Very reliable too - just enough boost to get it out of it's own way usually. It's a nice upgrade from slow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
You sure can Turbo an n/a Saab - base boost! You can run 6psi safely on an n/a motor by just adding a turbo and the needed components! Very reliable too - just enough boost to get it out of it's own way usually. It's a nice upgrade from slow...
That's true, but a factory turbo engine is always best, unless you are willing to upgrade head bolts, internals, etc.

A Subaru n/a isn't that slow. I remember driving my Forester with the 2.5 n/a engine and beating two WRX on a stoplight race. One had a boost leak and the other wasn't tuned to run on Alaska's lower grade gas and was knocking at WOT, so he was driving part throttle. The 2.5 n/a engine drinks 87 octane all day, so I had a blast (literally) beating the turbo cars :D It does put out 175 hp in n/a trim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
It's not that we run lower grades like Colorado's 85 octane, it's our highest grade that is low... The highest grade we get here is 90 octane, no 91 or 93 octance. So cars like a WRX that are required to run 91 or higher must get an ECU tune.

Subaru however has stopped denying warranty claims for turbo cars that run on 90 octane, since Alaska is such a big market for them. The greater Fairbanks area has less than 80,000 people but it is Subaru's third largest market in the US, per capita. Subies are everywhere here.
 

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The greater Fairbanks area has less than 80,000 people but it is Subaru's third largest market in the US, per capita. Subies are everywhere here.
I get it - but if I was there and saw it - I'd swear I was in a Hitchcock movie or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I get it - but if I was there and saw it - I'd swear I was in a Hitchcock movie or something.
Yep, just to have an idea, check out our local Craigslist for Subies for sale: http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=subaru&catAbb=cta&srchType=A&minAsk=&maxAsk=

Compare with the same search for SAABs, which is meager (the 9-7x is a scam): http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/search/cto?query=saab&srchType=T&minAsk=&maxAsk=

There's a good amount of older Loyales and GLs, one in a while a Brat or Justy pops up.

Cool beater Subie of the week is this Loyale Wagon Turbo for $1100: http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/1916973728.html

Here's a red Justy, beater with a heater, for $400: http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/1864343062.html

For my first year in Fairbanks my beater with a heater was this:


I bought it with a punctured radiator, broken headlight, dead battery and rebuilt title for $150. Fixed it all, drove it for a whole year, including bringing a few loads of fire wood one mile uphill, sold it for $1500.

Who needs a pickup truck?


Our arctic road warrior was this 08 Forester, but due to my wife being laid off we sold the new Forester, bought her a 03 Forester.


I kinda need four wheel drive as this is my driveway in the winter: 300 feet downhill in the snow. This pic was taken halfway down. The garage is on the left, the house a bit downhill to the right. Something tells me I'll have to park the SAAB uphill in the visitor's parking spot and run an electrical wire up there to keep the engine block warm. Hopefully with new studs on my winter tires the SAAB will make it all the way to the top without a hitch.


I miss my Subies. Maybe I'll call that guy selling the Justy...
 

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I kinda need four wheel drive as this is my driveway in the winter: 300 feet downhill in the snow. This pic was taken halfway down. The garage is on the left, the house a bit downhill to the right. Something tells me I'll have to park the SAAB uphill in the visitor's parking spot and run an electrical wire up there to keep the engine block warm. Hopefully with new studs on my winter tires the SAAB will make it all the way to the top without a hitch.


I miss my Subies. Maybe I'll call that guy selling the Justy...
If you put studs on, you will be more than set. I drive my 900 NA during the winter with studded snows, and it will haul through and up just about anything. My friend has a driveway similar to yours, expect it is about half a mile uphill, and it a sheet of ice most of the time. One time I had "all seasons" on, yeah what a joke, spun and slid all the way back downhill. With the studs, I climb out of it on the snowiest day. Non turbo certainly helps with hill/snow driving however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you put studs on, you will be more than set. I drive my 900 NA during the winter with studded snows, and it will haul through and up just about anything.
I got some 185/65-15 Gislaved Nord Frost 5 on steelies for the winter. This week I am putting new studs on it, it seems snow should be here in a week or so.
 
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