Saab Link Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been having some TCS problems as of late, with it intermittantly going into LHM. So I decided to give a shot at cracking opening the TB and cleaning it. I was looking for bad wiring and to clean the brushes/commutator.

First the plastic case of the connector side has to be removed...held on by 4 phillips screws.


Next the cover on the linkage side is removed. These screws were fairly difficult to remove. Ended up cutting a slot in the screws and using a flat bladed screwdriver. Afterwards, the little bar linking the motor is pulled out. Then there are 3 screws holding in the motor. These were also a royal pain. Got two of them out using PBblaster, but I had to drill the 3rd out.


Then pull on the connector side...it's snap fit into the case. The motor will follow. The motor and TPS are all held together with 4 screws. 2 small torx screws hold the TPS on the end of the motor shaft and 2 long phillips hold the motor together. When you pull it apart, there are some shims that sit between the commutator and bearing at the back of the housing. All in all the brushes looked good, but I cleaned them off with some paper towel.


Here's a random shot of the TPS...just screws to the back of the motor and the shaft fits into the semi circular cutout.


Here's a pic of the commutator. Mine had a bunch of grooves that I sanded off with some fine sandpaper. Other than that, not much to see except lots of wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
385 Posts
Nice photos !
I'll bet you didn't find anything amiss though. Did you :)
Invariably the TB insides always appear pristine., just like in your photos.
One has to meter the thing at all it's pinouts and combinations thereof.
In the hope of discovering faults with the innards.
It's all in the TCS 'manual description sheets.
Which is available on the net somewhere, but memory eludes as to exactly where at the moment.
On mine I found the readings a bit off due to wear in the tiny plastic bushes that the cad plarted connector rod fits into , your 2nd photo. Slop was barely noticeable but enough to mess the OHm specs. I bent my rod infintesimally untill the readings were in spec.
TCS subsequently worked and still is, a year later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just found the worn commutator, the rod was still tight. I've driven the car a few times and no LHM yet, but I'm gonna drive it a bit more and then get it recalibrated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
385 Posts
Great! IMO I wouldn't get it recalibrated.. It's only 'actually' required if you swap out the gas pedal potentiometer gizmo. TB 'cleanup' Is Not a valid reason to recalibrate.
Frankly a recalibration often messes things up.. badly.. (don't ask) as the memories in the ECU are getting old and semi reliable.
Don't 'fix it ' if it ain't broke... you may(likely) regret it .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Just a couple of quick notes on commutator repair.

If resurfacing by hand (as opposed to a lathe) always use sandpaper and never emery cloth. Emery will leave behind conductive residue behind that can bridge the bars. Or so I was told years ago.

The mica insulators between the individual commutator bars need to be undercut so that the upper edge is below the suface of the adjacent bars. A hacksaw blade can be sharpened and shaped like a hook to shave the micas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The reason I want to recalibrate is because in the quest an earlier idle issue I found the pedal sensor had nearly come off its pin. In conjunction with this, I figure it wouldn't be a bad idea to recalibrate.

Cool info chengny...I used the sandpaper because that was what I had, but good to know for future reference.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top