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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so today i did all the checks i could without a computer diagnostic. the check valves had around 70 ohms resistance and then later i checked them again and the one attached to the bypass valve was an open circuit. the vacuum lines were all checked and seem to be holding. i took the tb off and cleaned and checked the resistance between 7 and 1 and got anywhere from 10 to 500 ohms, not linear. the tcs fuse had power before the car was started but as soon as it was running it went off, i jumpered it and heard a relay click and a small hesitation in the engine then no difference. There is no ABS light on and i disconnected the wastegate line just to check the boost, it pushed out like 20 psi in no time at all, i didn't dare do a pull at that pressure but it sure feels nice to feel 10 psi after driving it around at 3 all the time. after all the checks today it seems to be idling better and has slightly better throttle response, but its still a dog. So what can i do next, should i start throwing parts at it or does a mechanic have to calibrate it or what? thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
so today i took my car to the mechanic, he scanned it quick and said it was the safety valve, he reset the tcs code and told me that if i leave cruise on it will calibrate it every time you turn it off. and the ac pumps again. so until the new valve is in i have a trouble code but its not running in limp mode any more :D
 

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IF I remember the Solenoid TCS valves are like 30 ohms when healthy?
Many more ohms when hot = junk. The Fender one (cruise control) is identical to the firewall mounted one, except for the mounting tabs.
Try swapping them to see if that helps. It's unlikely both solenoids died on the same day.
 
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