T-7 boost gauge install.
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yeah... i figured, but the autozone here doesn't have them and there are no other decent parts stores
I like the mounting cup over the pod as well.
I actually made mine out of a steel bracket and a perfect size vitamin bottle
I just cut it in half, drilled some holes in the bottom, and painted it black. There is a thin line between genious and retarded... I'm pretty sure I crossed it somewhere during this install.
Yes you can get a t-fitting to fit in place but the problem is that you can't get a rubber fitting sleeve for the nylon line to be held in the t-fitting like you do with the autometer. What he rigged up with the plumbing fittings will work perfectly fine for him.
My only gripe with the faze gauge was its lighting aside from its ricer look. However I bought it being on the cheap at the time.
i dislike the rubber sleeve that you put the nylon tube in on autometers. it dries out and starts cracking and under boost will blow it to peices basically. i had it in the car like that for about 1.5 years and had to replace it about every 2 months. i ended up sealing the nylon tubing to the rubber sleeve with super glue around the top to help not blow the line out but the rubber itself would break. i finally got around to getting a vac tee and using silicone vacuum line from the gauge to the source. dont have to worry about a thing now.
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Sleet - How did you do this? I want to use regular silicon vacuum tubing directly from the boost gauge into the engine bay.
Many people do this :
I would imagine that this would cause a leak between the vacuum line that the 1/8 plastic fitting. No?
Ok there is a bit of updating that needs to be done here due to some misinformation.
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The above grommet highlighted in yellow does not "exsist" in cars with the hydraulic clutch. That is the location where one of the mounting points for the hydraulic clutch pedal has a nut and bolt going through the firewall. Found that out after I ran into some other issues trying to prep for the prosport gauges.
So since the normal wiring loom that most of us send wires and what is to tight to get the prosport sending wires through because they already have the terminals on them what are other locations to attempt getting them through the 9-3 firewall?
The above grommet highlighted in yellow does not "exsist" in cars with the hydraulic clutch. That is the location where one of the mounting points for the hydraulic clutch pedal has a nut and bolt going through the firewall. Found that out after I ran into some other issues trying to prep for the prosport gauges.
So since the normal wiring loom that most of us send wires and what is to tight to get the prosport sending wires through because they already have the terminals on them what are other locations to attempt getting them through the 9-3 firewall?
Well I hadn't thought about it. Should probably edit that pic palmer with the clutch cable location and hydrualic location.
The nut on the engine side of it pretty much covers up the entire location. I will deffinitely have to get creative on this one.
The nut on the engine side of it pretty much covers up the entire location. I will deffinitely have to get creative on this one.
Is that a instrument lighting rheostat on your image?
Mine looks different and GREEN/WHITE should be the right wire to tap into... diagram
Edit: Green/white for OG9-3, grey/white for NG900
Mine looks different and GREEN/WHITE should be the right wire to tap into... diagram
Now for wiring.
The best choice for wiring your gauge would be to tap into a dash switch back light. You want to do this so your gauge will dim along with the other lights on the dash.
You want to find the GREY and WHITE wire on the back of a switch, like this:
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Edit: Green/white for OG9-3, grey/white for NG900
Just put a BSR boost gauge from GenuineSaab.com into my 2001 Viggen Dash.
Instructions here were very helpful--thanks!
Put it into the headlight hole and relocated headlight switch to lower dash panel straight below.
Was easy to tap the green/white for power at the rheostat -- this keep the gauge light on with dash lights--stays on with "night dash" button engaged.
You'd have to tap one of the night gauges to make it go off with them.
Also got autometer yellow bulb covers (I swear they snipped the tips off the baloons clowns use to make baloon toys for these FYI) as this help the gauge look green to match my 9-3 Viggen color.
Instructions here were very helpful--thanks!
Put it into the headlight hole and relocated headlight switch to lower dash panel straight below.
Was easy to tap the green/white for power at the rheostat -- this keep the gauge light on with dash lights--stays on with "night dash" button engaged.
You'd have to tap one of the night gauges to make it go off with them.
Also got autometer yellow bulb covers (I swear they snipped the tips off the baloons clowns use to make baloon toys for these FYI) as this help the gauge look green to match my 9-3 Viggen color.
Nope. Not correct. The night panel feature is all controlled on the BUS system via the SID and DICE. All the gauges and display panels are controlled by microprocessors that when they recieve the night panel "on" via the bus are then shut off via each microprocessor.
In order to make Night Panel work with any gauges that are aftermarket you'd need to make a Saab CAN BUS listening module (A SCAB module). This is something I'm going to be working on once I have a job for my prosport project. The general idea is laid out below in a flowchart.
Thought I'd just make a comment about the line that you are specifying to tap into. I read the whole thread but if I missed something sorry...
You said to tap into the line that comes off the manifold basically, right next to the FPR, and not the line that comes off the BPV. Lets just say your line pops off It can happen, like when I was with JZW tuning my 9-3 driving it full throttle repeatedly. Then don't you lose fuel pressure? Your the line from you BPV will read max boost when you hit max boost, which is what you really want isn't it? Im just saying if that line pops off you are in trouble, it happened to me, nylon lines arent the best. If I am wrong please correct me.
Joel
You said to tap into the line that comes off the manifold basically, right next to the FPR, and not the line that comes off the BPV. Lets just say your line pops off
It can happen, like when I was with JZW tuning my 9-3 driving it full throttle repeatedly. Then don't you lose fuel pressure? Your the line from you BPV will read max boost when you hit max boost, which is what you really want isn't it? Im just saying if that line pops off you are in trouble, it happened to me, nylon lines arent the best. If I am wrong please correct me.Joel
Problem i J930 is that if you use the line from the BPV on the T7 car you will not be able to see any vacuum readings as the solenoid that controls what the BPV line sees will be closed.
You should tap the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body/manifold (don't know its exact source as I have T5) that supply's that solenoid so that you can also see vacuum and not just boost.
You should tap the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body/manifold (don't know its exact source as I have T5) that supply's that solenoid so that you can also see vacuum and not just boost.
I agree on that issue. I first had my line tap in the manifold->solenoid line. When my awesome nylon boost gauge line popped off my T fitting and I had a leak my boost was going crazy. It looked like the boost needle was moving with the right foot, no lag. *And I am not 100% sure about what happens if you lose vac at that source, but its probably bad being right next to the FPR.* can someone clarify?
When I moved the line to my bpv I was very disappointed at what I saw as I would never see vac and the boost needle was jumpy and inaccurate. That is unless it was under full load, then the boost reading was right. At the time that is what was more important to me.
When I moved the line to my bpv I was very disappointed at what I saw as I would never see vac and the boost needle was jumpy and inaccurate. That is unless it was under full load, then the boost reading was right. At the time that is what was more important to me.
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Im having this problem^Ok there is a bit of updating that needs to be done here due to some misinformation.
![]()
The above grommet highlighted in yellow does not "exsist" in cars with the hydraulic clutch. That is the location where one of the mounting points for the hydraulic clutch pedal has a nut and bolt going through the firewall. Found that out after I ran into some other issues trying to prep for the prosport gauges.
So since the normal wiring loom that most of us send wires and what is to tight to get the prosport sending wires through because they already have the terminals on them what are other locations to attempt getting them through the 9-3 firewall?
any suggestions?
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5,079 Posts
Remove the fuse box and youll see the grommet then stick a pen cap or sometin similar through it and then get under the pedal assembly and youll see watever u put in there sticking out and thats where the grommet will be
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i just went through the brake boot thing SO MUCH EASIER
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Or that lol
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