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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been using my sub setup for the last 2 years in my car. I have a basic understanding of how my system works, as I installed it myself. All of a sudden, my woofer wont work with my amp set up. This is how I have my setup, can someone figure out what I am doing wrong this is driving me insane.

I have RCA connected to the back of my Alpine head unit to my 500/1 JL amp
Remote from the head unit to amp
positive connection from battery (fuse is good)

Power goes to my + cap input
a 2nd wire goes from my cap + to the amp +
A ground goes to a bolt under the felt in my trunk to - amp
a second wire goes from differnt bolt to - cap

Speaker wire goes from amp + to + on woofer
" " - to - from amp to woofer

My JL amp green power light turns on when the car is turned on, turns off when the car is off.

I tested the RCA signal by putting on headphones and touching the 3.5mm to it, i could hear music from both, to rule out the RCA connection

Tested the woofer from home audio connection

heres where stuff didnt work

3.5mm to RCA input AMP to speaker FAIL
another speaker connected to amp FAIL
new speaker wire

Does anyone know what I am doing wrong, or what else to test? Where is the best place to connect the ground? I am currently behind the 6x9 on a metal bolt. Any suggestions for a better ground?

Thanks for your help in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I solved it.

I went to a car audio shop, they said the signal wire from the head unit gives off a little juice, and thats why the amp was illuminating. They said it could be from 3 things, either a bad ground connection, a blown fuse, or a short in the system. I asked if they thought if there was a short in the + if the wire would have been shot, they said no, the fuse would have blown if there was a short for more than a few seconds. Upon further investigation, I checked my fuse, it was intact, checked the + to a piece of frame for a split second, saw sparks so i knew it was connected and not fully shorted. I then tried to touch my + wire to my - wire to look for sparks. The sparks were not flying like the frame. I took off the negative, and found oxidization all over the connector and the bolt. This was making a bad connection, allowing minimal power to go through the wire, since the connection was so bad. I repositioned the - onto a new bolt, and sanded down about an inch diameter around where the bolt was going in, sanded down the bolt to make a huge contact point for my 6 gauge wire and loop ring contact. I then re stripped my wire for some fresh steel. My system is bumping again.

This is was just so frustrating since my power light was coming on at the amp and there was no sound. It was driving me insane. I assumed all my connections were perfect. Never assume anything.

Thanks for the self lesson SL.
 

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Congrats on fixing it. Systems can be a pain in the ass, it took me almost a year to get mine fully completed the way I want it to sound. Not skimping out on components is very important ie. bigger gauge > small cheepo gauge. Not sure why you need a cap though. I have 2awg from my battery to a distribution block in the trunk, there it splits to an 1800w Kenwood mono and again to a 1000w US. Amps. I don't experience any clipping, or lights dimming what-so-ever and this system is loud!

Anyways, as you learned, the ground connection is VERY sensitive and critical to your system performing correctly. Almost every problem I've encountered has something to do with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
mhess,

You are very lucky. I have 6g wire coming from the battery, and when it goes directly to the amp without a cap, the SID dims, and the lights dim as well. At only maybe 25% volume and 25% sub control. The cap lets you hit 90% vol and 75% sub before it starts dimming the lights a little. I have a JL 500/1 and a 1 farad cap. I feel like the JL is 500 RMS, as a 1 farad cap says it good for 1000 watts and some of these cheapo advertised 1000 WTATTS PWOER! are 900 peak on a good day, 200 rms.
 
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