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I dont need a head gasket but when I finally do would be nice to know where to get a steel reusable head gasket from what Ive heard talking to car clubguys its well worth it in the long run.
 

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The key to getting stock gaskets to work (or any gasket for that matter) is proper surface finish and perfectly flat and parallel surfaces. Deck the head and block with modern carbide cutters. No grinding, its too rough.

no the cometic are crap.
Good if you o-ring it first. Try and use it without and not so great...
After this we went back to stock gasket and it held fine. Power was in the 500whp at that time. Pretty spectacular, dumped all the water in about 1 sec on the road.
 

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Holy jeebus, $204 USD + shipping + VAT for one of those from Abbott? No thanks....

Any machine shop that is still cutting sealing surfaces with HSS shell mills or fly-cutters is asking for trouble - Valenite holders aren't even that expensive...
 

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nick is 100% correct about the head/block finishing.

i usally dont have a block finished when i do an HG mostly because the motor is still in the car.

however getting the head decked/hotanked only runs around 80$ at a local machine shop. and its worth every penny. ive pulled heads due to exhaust studs and had them decked out of good practice, (IE not for a currently blown gasket) and they untrue even with the good HG.

with proper surfacing the stock HGs have no trouble seeing 400whp

its cheap security when your pulling the head
 

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Yes there is some corrosion/rust around the water holes, thats why they took 0,2 mm off it. But still a bit pitting on it but its very flat! Maybe when the engine is out again i do it then. Not easy to weld on that black stuff so first you need to grind it out.

BTW: Whats purty!?:D
 

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Purty is slang for "pretty". It's the way people who live in the southern US pronounce the word. Just realizing you are from overseas. It was a compliment on how nice the motor looks. :)

I always just use an epoxy product called JB Weld on any pitting-- it does the job.
 
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