yes, definitely.
In fact you can even drive it sometimes too

 

Anything is possable if you try, One of my old techs used to drive a blown small block 32 Chevy coupe as a daily driver in the summer months.

 

You just learn to feather the pedal in first and second gears....

 

Or mash it to the floor and cross your fingers

x2

I drove my stage 4 9000 daily for about a year till it became a summer only car.

Now I daily drive a 96 900 w/almost the same setup (tuning is a bit different). Its not bad at all as long as you keep the throttle reasonable in 1st and 2nd gear, otherwise you'll end up turning the tires to smoke rather quickly.

 

Or mash it to the floor and cross your fingers

 

If you have self control you can drive anything.

The car isn't going to just go all out all the time. The only reason I don't drive my Stage 4 Aero EVERY day when its nice out is because the SPG is just an easier car to drive, more comfortable over bumps, lighter clutch feel, etc.

No reason you can't drive it. Hell, I'd use a 400hp car as a daily driver if I was given the opportunity!

 

JK, true that (same w/ my spg vs. my stage 4 aero), and mcrowly, Im so happy I have winter/bad weather car. If fact its almost time to drive it around.

I guess the aero could be driven in the winter but...
1. it would suck w/any slickness
2. its best kept hibernating

 

what I do with my nordic stg 3 is unplug the bpc and run 87 octane in the winter. saves the winter tires, gas milage goes up, an the wheels will usually still spin anyhow.

I have a transmission being rebuilt at the moment, which has about 165k of use, the last 20k seeing use from a boost controller which I think is even worse than a staged tune because boost isnt limited in lower gears, and comes on faster. The upper syncros are very warn, especially 3rd. Shifter forks are fine, an so are most of the bearings (which are being replaced anyway because they are cheep).

I wouldn't worry to much about the transmission being able to take it. Just don't abuse it, avoid getting the wheels to hop, if you spin the wheels make sure both are (dont floor it with the wheel turned to one extreme).

 

My Aero drives fine in the winter with snow tires, but I didn't want to buy a third set of snows to put on the Aero this year, especially since the SPG just handles the winter so well anyway.

The real problem with driving my Aero in the snow is that it turns into a snowplow because of how low it is.

 

The real problem with driving my Aero in the snow is that it turns into a snowplow because of how low it is.

Yeah theres that plus all the salt and other crap that accumulates on the road during winter isn't the best thing when you're trying to keep your paint super nice.

 

thats what I was worried about but thanks for clearing that up.

mods plwease delete now?

 

If I lives in a non-salting state I would not hesitate to drive my Aero year-round!

Its amazing visiting my uncle in WA and seeing his rust free 1990 9000S. It even has body damage and missing a jarge chunck of paint - still, no rust, just bare galvinized metal!

mods plwease delete now?

No reason to delete! Its good to have these threads as a helpful reference for anyone in the future who is looking to have the same question answered! We're trying to build a knowledge base here

 

well I said delete because I mean HYPOTHETICALLY speaking what if I picked up a saab 9000 aero within the next few weekends? If I did that I would just make a new thread in general for any and all questions. All hypotheticall of course...

 

My Aero was from WA, no rust issues.

 

I know of someone who DD's a 800whp Eclipse.... I'm sure he de-tunes the car to a mere 500whp during the winter anything is possible.

 

Thats true (cue in kaylan lol) but at the same time I'd like to atleast try and have a balance between good reliability and good power. You know as they say "fast, cheap, reliable you can only pick two"

 

Reliability is all in how you drive the car.

If you can avoid doing burnouts, slam shifting, etc and change the oil & other fluids it should last a good long time.

 

Reliability is all in how you drive the car.

If you can avoid doing burnouts, slam shifting, etc and change the oil & other fluids it should last a good long time.

thats exactly what I wanted to hear! Now I musr ask what is the difference between sqr stg3 and 4?

 

I drive my AeroStg 5 when it's dry and cold, and soak up that nice cold air, it never runs better---- John

 

what about my question though between stg 3 and 4? Whats difference in gas mileage, boost? plug life? hmm?

 

what about my question though between stg 3 and 4? Whats difference in gas mileage, boost? plug life? hmm?

Gas mileage is mostly dependent on your right foot. I average about 25-26mpg around town and 30-31 highway in mine.

Plugs...mine chews through a set every 2500-3000 miles. Theres a definite dropoff in performance that tells you when it needs new ones.

Boost? Depends on your hardware really. W/the big ic, piping, etc on mine I see 25psi or so (only had a gauge on it once).

The real big difference between stage 3 and stage 4 SQR is the extra torque. If I recall stage 3 was 'designed' to work with (save) the oem clutch & pp, where stage 4 goes for maximum performance and as a result the oem pp & clutch suffer (almost instantly).

 

My Aero is still going to be my DD (I have a 79 I need to drive as well to keep in the best running condition possible) but I have to work on the street driving tune a little more... It only likes WOT right now. Its totally possible to drive a super fast car every day. It drives like it has 150HP until you get on the throttle! It has over 550 from the crank. My transmission isn't stock though. IMO a LSD helps a ton for DD.