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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
besides partsforsaabs.com where can i find stage 2 clutchs, and besides GS where can i find a light weight flywheels. does GS still sell clutchs i didnt see any on the website? i have been looking around for a fee days and have had zero luck, besides these two sites.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not looking for cheep parts just good quality. That might clean up my drivetrain slop and hold some stg 3 abuse. Looks like I'll just work with what's available. Thanks
 

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GS or JZW are about the only places in the US with reliable inventory in stock. There used to be more, but there's no money in it. The MapTun distrubutor seems to change to a new shop about every year - it was me for about 6 months, and I didn's sell a single item the entire 6 months.

If you search some of the UK or Swedish companies there are some more options, but the pricing is usually pretty close between all of them - margins are pretty low.
 

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I'm not looking for cheep parts just good quality. That might clean up my drivetrain slop and hold some stg 3 abuse. Looks like I'll just work with what's available. Thanks
Stock aero units work well I have stage IV+ and no issues in 35K miles...

Or try spec ( or any spec dealer) Spec Direct
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ill give nick, and john a call in the morning to see if they might be able to help out, otherwise it looks like i will be going with an OEM. ive only replaced a 93 clutch once, is it almost the same as a 95? drop the cradle take out anything in the way?



just for some second opinions, my clutch didn't go bad, my slave cylinder burst brake fluid everywhere. can i get away with ordering a new clutch & slave and keeping the old pressure plate?
 

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ill give nick, and john a call in the morning to see if they might be able to help out, otherwise it looks like i will be going with an OEM. ive only replaced a 93 clutch once, is it almost the same as a 95? drop the cradle take out anything in the way?

just for some second opinions, my clutch didn't go bad, my slave cylinder burst brake fluid everywhere. can i get away with ordering a new clutch & slave and keeping the old pressure plate?
Yes but are you running an Aero set up? differnet size than the LPT ( and much more sturdy)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I do not know, I've only owned the car for 6000 miles. I'm the third owner. It's a my00 aero with 124xxx clutch was replaced under warenty @ dealership in 2007 at 73xxx. Or so carfax claims. Vin leads me to believe its an aero but I could have been jipped by the carsales man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got my stock flywheel lightened from 27lbs down to 19lbs. Cost was about 110$ w/ resurface/balance
I havent heard of many people lighting the flywheel, or even many shopes that would do that. Isn't this done with the rotating assembly? Would I have to pull the crank out for.this? I need to replace the crank pully seal but I'm not trying to pull the whole car apart. How did you do this?
 

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I removed the flywheel from the car, removed the dowels from the flywheel. I dropped the flywheel off at the shop. I picked it up when they were done.

If the flywheel is balanced before (factory) and it's rebalanced after lightening, nothing else should be affected. Maybe on a race car it could matter.

The 9-5 flywheel is monstrous. The NG flywheels are 21lbs ish IIRC, so it's really not that light. I had the flywheel for a b204 build in a 9-5 wagon, but that car got flooded in Hurri Irene while the motor out and on a stand. I may get a chance to use it yet, but its going to be months at this point.

Also, there are lots of ways to tell if it's a real Aero. Post of photo of it for starters.
 

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Many machine shops will lighten a flywheel like Nick says ( had mine taken down 7 bls, love how it works.

You can have it lightened and balanced without the rotating assembly,if you get it resurfaced lighening adds only a few dollars more.

Balancing the rotating assemply is part of race balacing the engine, you don;t need to do all that, you can jsut do the flywheel

I would recommend a lightened flywheel and Stock Aero clutch and pressure plate ( whether your car is LPT or not)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Many machine shops will lighten a flywheel like Nick says ( had mine taken down 7 bls, love how it works.

You can have it lightened and balanced without the rotating assembly,if you get it resurfaced lighening adds only a few dollars more.

Balancing the rotating assemply is part of race balacing the engine, you don;t need to do all that, you can jsut do the flywheel

I would recommend a lightened flywheel and Stock Aero clutch and pressure plate ( whether your car is LPT or not)
does the lightened flywheel make that big of a difference, from what i can gather. the only plus to having a lighter flywheel is the decel of the engine is quicker. which would only really help in tight turns? the only time you would notice a change is when rev matching while down shifting. correct me if im wrong but wouldnt you loose power off the line with a lighter flywheel? ive been talking to our shops grumpy old parts manager guru and he was suggesting geting a even heavier flywheel than stock to help hold power higher in the R's?

im slightly more confused than before, the trade off between a lightweight and a heavy flywheel would be the amount of force of the engine in middle or high end of the R's?

so the heavier the flywheel the more tq transfer i will have at redline?
there for a lighter flywheel would help with midrange tq???

im extremely curious as to what would be the best fit for my set up. any and all input is greatly appreciate, bear with me if im missing the point.
 

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Heavier flywheel = more rotating mass = more drivetrain loss = slower time to build speed. A heavy flywheel would help if you revved the crap out of the car during a standing start, but the additional mass likely puts additional stress on the clutch.

The major immediate downside to a lightened flywheel is the mental and physical adjustment that the driver needs to make to compensate for the difference in clutch engagement. I stalled out a few times when I made the switch...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Heavier flywheel = more rotating mass = more drivetrain loss = slower time to build speed. A heavy flywheel would help if you revved the crap out of the car during a standing start, but the additional mass likely puts additional stress on the clutch.

The major immediate downside to a lightened flywheel is the mental and physical adjustment that the driver needs to make to compensate for the difference in clutch engagement. I stalled out a few times when I made the switch...
the heavier flywheel would only be helpful if i had a v8. over all the less weight the less stress, and the better off i am.
 

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The heavier flywheel is helpful to fuel economy and to smoothing out the variance of the engine when you're on and off throttle, but....

It's really, really heavy.
 

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Heavier flywheel = more rotating mass = more drivetrain loss = slower time to build speed. A heavy flywheel would help if you revved the crap out of the car during a standing start, but the additional mass likely puts additional stress on the clutch.

The major immediate downside to a lightened flywheel is the mental and physical adjustment that the driver needs to make to compensate for the difference in clutch engagement. I stalled out a few times when I made the switch...
The lightened wheel is barely noticeable all I could feel was easier acceleration off the line ( less "bogging") and easier low rev modulation.

The heavier flywheel is helpful to fuel economy and to smoothing out the variance of the engine when you're on and off throttle, but....

It's really, really heavy.
Really did not see any difference in economy on the lightened wheel but like you said its really really heavy so taking 7 lbs off is prolly about right. A lightweight flywheel is an issue tho diveablility is different for sure
 
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