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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, I'm going to change the spark plugs and wires in my c900 n/a on saturday. I was wondering what kind would be best for performance? NKG if I remember the name right I've heard are good, or can I just get normal ones like Napa or Duralast and do they make a difference performance wise? How much are a new set of wires gonna cost me and what kind should I get? It probably doesn't need wires but I might as well do them, not a big job and I don't think it will cost that much. Should I gap them to 30/1000's? That's what I gap all my small engine spark plugs to on my lawnmowers/gokarts and stuff like that, small Briggs/Techumseh/Kolher engines. Thanks
 

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ngk plugs. -8-10$
bougicord wires-45-55$
bosch dist cap-5-10$
bosch dist rotor-5-10$

dont cheap out on things that will only save you 1$ seriously
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok, can I just do the wires and plugs? I don't really want to do the distributor and rotor. I haven't done anything with the plugs and wires in the 9 years my parents/me have had the car. The distributor cap was replaced last year when I have the ignition coil and CPS replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well, AutoZone didn't have an NGK spark plugs, it was going to be a two day wait. Next time I'll order them in advance and put them in. But I bought a set of 4 Bosch Platinum Performance plugs or something like that. The total was $9.69 for all 4 and I get a $8 mail in rebate. So pretty good deal. The old ones were gapped at .035/inch!! Very worn, I noticed they were NGK so I'm guessing the last time they were done it was at the Saab dealer where my parents bought the car about 8 years ago. So I gapped these Bosch ones to .028/inch and torqued them to 20 ft/lbs. Started her up, and it ran good, so I tried to rev it, almost stalled out but then revved, and then after that it revved fine. I think the computer had to adjust to the new gap, so that was the computer getting accustomed to it. Anyway, I'll put on new wires and distributor next week probably. I only had time to do these this week on Saturday.

Here's some pictures of the old plugs:


Look how far apart the gap is on the plug:
 

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After doing the cap and rotor you will probably need to re set the timing.
Is this something that needs to be done on all C900's? This is the first time I have heard of this.. Will the timing be that far off?

Cheers,
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm not sure, I didn't do the cap and rotor, just the plugs and wires, but now it has so much better acceleration, and doesn't hesitate under load, for a N/A at least, quite a good and necessary performance upgrade.
 

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Sean, go back to the auto parts store or a K-Mart, Fred Meyer, WalMart, etc and get the cheapest timing light they sell in the auto parts section. Read the directions included, and you are ready to set the timing.
Changing a cap and rotor should be an annual occasion- sure they can go for much longer, but the car will run better, you will make more power, and you might even learn something in the process.
I STRONGLY suggest you buy the bougicord wires as mentioned above and replace the ones you have. The next time you go to replace the plugs, you will likely rip the end off of the wire, leaving you pretty well screwed. Save the old set in the (likely) event that this happens the next time you are gapping your plugs.
When you replace the wires, change one out at a time so you don't get the firing order confused. Same goes for swapping the cap and rotor- line up the way the new cap will live on the distributor (small notch and big notch) and swap the wires across one at a time. Better yet, label the distributor cap and wires with their corresponding cylinder. Remember cylinder 1 is at the firewall.

Hook up your timing light to the #1 cylinder wire and battery leads, as directed by the instructions that came with the light. Get a wrench handy to loosen the bolts at the base of the distributor. On the driver's side fender, you will find a sticker that says what to set the timing at... I presume that your '90 has a vacuum advance capsule on the distributor, but I don't know for sure. Typically you will disconnect that vacuum hose (be sure to plug the hose somehow!) and you will run the RPMs up to 2000 (again, typically). An assistant is handy to hold the rpms where you need them, but you can always do it yourself by sticking something between the throttle stop adjustment screw and the throttle cam itself. Takes some trial and error, but you can make it work. Once you get this all worked out, shine the timing light on the little inspection port at the front of the clutch cover to see the timing marks on the flywheel. Sometimes the marks aren't clear; if this is the case, shut the car off and bump it a few times to get the marks lined up a the top where you can see then. A little love with a wire brush will help you see the marks much more easily.
Back to timing: note where it is at, versus what is indicated on the sticker on the wheel well. Are you a few degrees out of adjustment? OK, loosen the bolts on the distributor just enough that you can twist the distributor a bit. Slowly move it back and forth until you get the marks on the flywheel to line up where they should, then carefully tighten the distributor bolts back down, watching the timing as you go- it is easy to upset it when you are tightening the bolts!
This is a super easy job, and you will be amazed by just how much smoother the car will run, the improvement in your gas mileage, and the extra power it will create!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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You can open a checking account and use the debit card they send you.

Or I think 7-11 has those fake visa and master gold cards, where u buy it and put money on it like a gift card.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
so I can't just enter a card # from one of those prepaid debit cards on the website and order it? I have to sign up for a paypal?
 
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