Congrats on the box of goodies

 

Excellent.

I need a set of Konis on my 900.

 

You only need the rivet for the passenger side!

Don't drill the hole out too big, 1/2" is TOO LARGE.

 

You only need the rivet for the passenger side!
Don't drill the hole out too big, 1/2" is TOO LARGE.

Champ, you're speaking of the 6-pt harness; am I correct?
Thank you for the tip - I will make doubly sure NOT to drill too much (hide spinning drill...)

I was quite surprised at how SMALL and light the subframe harness was. From the pictures, it looks rather large. Partly because I don't have a lift, and I don't get to look at the underbelly of my car so often.

The ARB looks like it can be installed in a matter of minutes. The instructions were a bit of a puzzle, but GS has gracioulsy applied their logo decal on it to indicate the correct orientation. This install should be easy enough, even for me

I really need to get a good set of jacks stands, now.
I wonder how many Saabists, here, are blessed with ownership of a good hydraulic lift in thier garage? (the scissor or pentagraph type)

In the meanwhile, I'm doing curls with the ARB (it's heavy), as I watch the local weather news in the Seattle area. Ice + inexperienced drivers in their over-spec SUVs... It's better than "Disney on Ice", for sure.

 

A lot of people do comment on the lightness of the 6-pt, but Nick says that due to the angles it has very high rigidity specs.

The ARB is very easy. If you're at stock ride height, driving back onto 2x4's should give enough room to get under there.

Start putting lubricant on all of the hardware while you wait for the rest of the parts!

 

2x4s, Lube, Penetrant... Check!
Thank you for the hints - even Champ's explanation of the plate bars make great sense.I think I made the right choice to order from GS and to consult you fine blokes here, at Saablink.

 

Eh just go and snap the bolts of the RARB as you won't need to reuse them since there is hardware provided.

 

Eh just go and snap the bolts of the RARB

Sure, with my pinky.
No problem

 

Lol. Nick seemed to make short work on mine after we snapped the bolt heads off.........Then again he did grab a mallet to break the bar free from the rust to the rear axle beam.

 

You just don't have to be nice to it. Yours Nahum was one of the more difficult ones in a while.

 

Hahaha. Yes we can thank the state of Minnesota and there road department for the salt they put down each winter. Carfax showed thats where my car started out at.

 

Got the final box last night.
No instructions for the open-ain filter. Pretty straight forward install, I presume? There is this part on the shield that is like a "tab" that is laser cut, but not bent out/in. Would any of you guys know what it's for? ...sorry - don't have pics at the moment.

All of the parts were neatly bagged, save for a few filter-mount screws and washers rolling around at the bottom of the box. No damage, all of the larger parts packed securely in the box. Even the decals & emblem were saran-wrapped to a piece of cardboard!

As Champ noted, there were three slide-in plates (total of 5 holes covered) and two rivets. I assume the one rivet is extra...?

All but the front suspension should be pretty DIY-able with minimal down-time. I am debating if I should do the front struts myself, or have the local indy (Scanwest) do them for me.

Now, to find the time to install all of the items - what a pleasant delimma.

 

There is a thread here with pictures of the GS intake install, my pictures show what mounts to it.

 

Steve,
I saw the pics - very clearly, too.
That's all I need. Thanks!!! Did you paint the shield? Looks pretty neat.
We need to meet up at the next SCS event. XXX next month?

Champ,
MAF rotated 180 - check.
I'll look into the front suspension - I just might try it to get to know my car a little better
Something tells me, though, that I will be calling the indy...

 

Pics James!


Steve - see ya next month. And nice sig... but I would recommend changing the license plate to "NO JOKE"

 

Pics James!

Joe,
Here you go - have at it: http://picasaweb.google.com/route246r/ModificationsForTheViggen?authkey=cnBnu-KnrgE

I'm pleased to report that the Intake and the Rack brace installation was relatively straight forward, thanks to the guidance from you all. Both the intake and brace went in, in one sitting, in less than an hour.

Took her for a spin, and I now see why people say that this is the first and foremost modification that needs to be applied. Flogged the go-pedal on a hill, and the floppy vert just goes STRAIGHT. I can almost take my hand off of the steering wheel. Wow, what blast not not have to worry about wrestling with the car during take-off.

The intake is quite the heavy breather! I can even hear the recirc. valve. Sounds an awful lot like the atmospheric BOV that I had in my '93 c900t, but less deafning.

There is a very curious, faint, fast ticking sound that started up after the modifications. It goes away during accel. Need to figure out what it is, because I know it's going to drive me mad. Can't hear it with the bonnet open and the motor running - the sound is much more evident inside the car with the windows closed.

More pics to follow, as the installation fest continues.

 

The ticking you hear is the Evap Purge valve (also known as the thingamabob from your pictures ) that goes on the tab that you bend out of the heat sheild.

The stainless part transmits the noise more than the stock one. It's totally common, and nothing to worry about.

I had the some sound on my old 9-3, as well as a few other people.

 

Impressions of the Rack brace and intake (cont.)

The ticking you hear is the Evap Purge valve (also known as the thingamabob from your pictures ) that goes on the tab that you bend out of the heat sheild.

The stainless part transmits the noise more than the stock one. It's totally common, and nothing to worry about.

I had the some sound on my old 9-3, as well as a few other people.

Palmer,
I was driving to work this morning, and it was driving me crazy.
The sound is most prominent above the dash; pop my head below, into the footwell, and the noise is so faint that I can barely make it out. I thought it might be the 10mm soket that I dropped in the engine bay, rattling, but your quick/clear/concise explanation put my mind at ease. Thank you so much.

I'll have to think of a way to isolate the thingamabob with some kind of dampening material. Currently, the rubber bits must be worn out and the plastic may be contacting the aluminium shield. The noise sounds akin to a jackhammer in a distance... tikatikatikatikatikatika...

Now that I know that it is benign, I'll just turn up the volume on the news radio station (AM 1000 in Seattle area). ...after $1500 in performance/accessory parts in ONE SHOT, my FM radio privilages have been temporarily suspended.
...or drive with my head in the footwell???

The sound of the intake is louder than expected.
The diameter of the MAF sensor inlet is MUCH larger than that of the c900t that I had (as is the compressor), so I had somewhat of an idea that the sound would be loud, but not THIS much :shock:

Steve,
I printed out your pics and that of Nick's on GS' Gallery albums.
That was all that was needed. The rotating of the sensor was the only interesting part.

The rack brace is quite a marvel of an item.
A simple design to take up the slack that SAAB left out in design/production makes a world of difference. The results are none short of stunning. It's a different car, altogether. ...and to think that I still have the 22mm ARB, 6-pt harness, and the Koni package to install... Woohoo!

I can live with AM radio for a good while :twisted:

 

Find that 10mm socket yet?
;-)

 

Sonic (your avatar),
Nope. It's probably rolling around on the interstate somewhere...
If not, I really want to find it because I hate gaps in my tool box, and heaven forbid, if that socket finds its way into the belts... :shock:

Kind of like rubber washers. It made a positive difference!
Got the bolt washer setup going and crushed the rivet into the frame and done!

Word,
Sounds like a good plan. Did you apply rubber bushings (for a lack of better term) for all 3 anchoring points? I found that the supplied washers were a bit soft, and the first one I tightened is now crushed/warped; left it as is. I suppose another way would be to use some inexpensive dynomat type of material to really quiet it down (vibration = sound). The bolts that secure the MAF sensor might benefit from some dampening, too, if the owner is creative and sensitive enough towards the induction "noise", which I think is rather, uh, cool

I will definitely mimic your method of slightly tapering the rivet.
I was worried about the rivet not staying flush, but is seems the fit is so tight that the rivet won'y scoot out of the opening to cause it to be loose?
Did you raise the car on a lift, or just use stands? What I am curious about, is the amount of room you have/lack to swing a hammer around underneath.

Thank you all, for your pin-point tips. This project is turning out to be much more pleasant than I initially thought. Saab, what a great culture

 

For my intake I had the same issue. I was able to resolve it a little better by isolating the heat shield with rubber grommet dampeners between all metal on metal fasteners. Kind of like rubber washers. It made a positive difference!

For the record the 6-point was relatively easy for me once I got the hang of the crush rivet socket/wrench setup. I tapered the end of my rivet (see huge pliers) to allow the to slide into the rectangle slot easier I also filed the slot a bit. This let me press the rivet in position then just used a hammer to pound it the rest of the way into its place. Got the bolt washer setup going and crushed the rivet into the frame and done!

 

Route246, Are you the guy who had the Silver Vert Vig last year at XXX? Didn't you also have a old 900SPG that was pretty much slammed?

Glad its going well anyways.

 

Champ & Word...

I hear they are hiring at Bentley or Haynes
Your description is quite easy to follow.
If I ever get out to the twin cities, I'll buy you two a PBR

head of the bolt first: metal washer, rubber grommet, ____ , rubber grommet, metal washer, and finally nut.

Word, you think like I do. I now have a very clear picture in my mind. So clear, that I may have dreams about this, tonight :shock:

Again, thank you all, for the tips and I look forward to reporting back with the install results. However, I am still straddling the fence on the shocks...

 

Good to hear Route246. I hope all goes smoothly for ya!

Also FYI I had to grind down the metal sleeves that the bolts to hold the MAF in place slide through to use the washers and grommets. You can also just buy longer bolts.

 

How is this going / did this go?

 

Champ,
Haven't had the opportunity to get "in there". I'm a loser, yes
My mind automatically switched to "ah, what's a little ticking - wait till it warms up" mode. Temps have been hovering right around freezing lately. Really - I'll get to it when the temps rise around here; it's quite painful to be in the garage, now.

Moose,
You're quite right. I lost a 10mm in my c900t as well

Thanks for checking into this thread.
I'll post updates when (not "if") the working conditions in my garage improve a bit.

Besides, I still have Koni shock/springs, the 22mm ARB, and the 6-pt harness to install. There is NO WAY I'm going to lay on the freezing concrete for so long!

 

Oh you sissy! I took out the entire interior in my '91 to fix the ignition in my garage when it was in the single digits fahrenheit!

Cardboard boxes laid out, or those little dollies you lay on work quite nicely!

 

Sounds good!

 

Way to call him out Champ!

Route246 I understand it maybe hard to live-up to us "tough and gruff" Minnesota types. But, glad to see you make the effort to belly-up to the table.

Keep us posted.

 

Way to call him out Champ!
(snip)
Keep us posted.

Alright. The ticking is GONE :shock:
I did two things. Used some old sleeping bag padding foam to dampen the intake shield, and to give the evap valve a pillow to rest on.
http://picasaweb.google.com/route246r/Intake?authkey=o4GjKKGZaNo
I am starting to think that it was the valve alone. I tried both the bolt-dempening and the valve-pillow at the same time, so it's hard to say if it's just the valve touching the shield...

In any case, it's MUCH quieter in the cabin.

Thanks for the nudge, lads! If it weren't for you all, I'd still be pulling my hair out at stop lights

 

While I have your attention, Champ & 'Word, what do you think of these wheels?
I have the original Vig5-spokes, but not mounted on tires.
You think I should change?
http://www.pbase.com/route246/image/90502990

These are the blings that came with the car.

 

You didn't ask for my opinion, but I'm going to give it to you, because I'm a big jerk and I have a big mouth.

Saabs of yore seem to have a general blocky shape. Ive never been a fan of busy wheels on an understated car, it takes away from the appeal of the simple design that flows so naturaly. Its the same kind of hate I have for old Lincoln Conti's with 100 spoke wheels and other flash. The less spokes and flash the better.

I'm a big fan of the Volvo Pegasus wheels myself.

 

They wouldn't be terrible if they weren't chrome. I just dislike chrome for no real reason. Think it looks dumb.

To me they look like you are trying to hard!

 

Get them powdercoated to something else!


Are they actually chrome? They don't look all that shiny...

 

Are they actually chrome? They don't look all that shiny...

They ARE powdercoated. Well, sort of. They're Brake-powder-coated
Here they are, in full bling glory... http://www.pbase.com/route246/image/73233333

I try to keep them a little dirty, becasue like Champ, I'm not a big fan of vision-altering bling, myself. But they were on the car when I took delivery, so here again, my lazy old butt hasn't gotten around to getting better skins for the Vig5-spokes...

So now I need to go get tires mounted on the 'spokes and get a wash...
I'll keep the blings for winter use...

 

Oh no wonder...

Mine never made any ticking, and I see now that the tab yours is resting on is angled where as mine was straight so it never touches the shield.