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Ruined big end bearing on tuned B234r

2.3K views 14 replies 12 participants last post by  mike saunders  
#1 ·
The bearing shells are totally and utterly shot on no. 2 rod only. This occurred while on a racing circuit. The car is running a GT3076r turbo and putting out circa 450-500bhp. Anyone heard of this problem before? I doid check the oil level (runs on Mobil 1) prior to taking it on the track and filled right up to 'max'.

Last year I threw a rod on exactly the same circuit:(
Any ideas/suggestions about the cause?
Thanks,
Alanb
 
#2 ·
I can see were this is going to go. Slowmotion never uses Mobil 1 ect ect
 
#4 ·
Last year I threw a rod on exactly the same circuit:(
Any ideas/suggestions about the cause?
Thanks,
Alanb
Oil passage issues? We did a CSE that had #1 and #2 rod bearing issues, PO decided that oil changes were optional.

What did the oil screen on the pump look like? I've seen some people use different screens/pickups to allow greater oil flow.

--Oliversexpedtion
 

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#6 ·
what did the oil look like when it came out? what weight were you using?

mobil1 cannot stand up to high heat for extended periods of time end of story. its been happening in circuit hondas also that see revs above 7k for extended periods...the mobil 1 just gives up and they drop out of the race with a toasted block.
 
#7 ·
I really didn't want this to turn into a anti-Mobil 1 thread. There are two good reasons why I don't think the oil is to blame:
1. The rod went last year (in a different engine) when I was using a different brand of oil
2. The shells on all the other rods are in perfect condition, suggesting a very quick, catastrphic failure in no. 2.

What I really wanted to know was whether the 9000 has any design issues which might leave no. 2 rod bearings more prone to being damaged.
Thanks.
Alanb
 
#8 · (Edited)
none that i know of,,, most people seam to agree that these motors are built like brick shit houses.........

then again, i toasted a 9k motor also,,, i spun all my mains at once, and 3/4 of the connecting rod bearings.

If i was to speculate the number 2 cylinder could see much different oil because thats the cylinder that sees the oil fresh from the turbo, and when oil leaves the turbo its really not oil anymore,, more of a thick foam (hence why the oil return hose is so large)

this oil (or foam) is much thinner, hotter, and less lubricating than normal oil which could result in failures like your talking about.

do you run an oil temp guage?? usually bearing failure has to do with your oil becoming to thin.. (think coolant mixed with oil)

Or having the number 2 fail twice could just be a dumb coincidence

one thing that ive seen done is to hook up an automatic trans cooler (stock equpt on auto 9ks) directly after the OEM oil cooler, (yes a trans cooler will handle motor oil) they fit very neatly under the rad, and will just help to bring your temps down even more.
 
#10 ·
Balance shaft oil is taken out of the middle main bearing. That might be some of it.

Watch the oil temps. We find the stock cooler will not handle the extra heat from double stock power. On the 450/500hp cars ont he dyno with enough fans to keep charge temp lower than on the street we get critical oil temp after 1-2 consecutive pulls.
 
#12 ·
Really sorry to hear Alan - that's a downer - hope it's easily fixable. I got a PFS radiator 2 years back and they ship the Auto ones by default now so has the autobox cooler section in it but blanked off. Guess that could be run in series with the existing one. (And that assuming overcooked oil is indeed the source).

Given your GT30 has a flow reducer on the oil input (looks pretty tight too) I suspect there is not much on the way of froth coming back down so upset the oil in the return.

What you need to do is run with 1.5litres too much like I did then there's plenty to go round... :roll:
 
#13 ·
A bit off topic, but I just had my rebuilt td 04/18t-turbo let go on my newly rebuilt stg 5 motor.I was seeing fine particles and a couple of thin round slivers in the oil and filter, none in the top end/cams. The shop who did the turbo is saying it won't warranty because abrasives from the engine ruined the turbo, which would mean bearings, but I'm thinking maybe the other way around. What are chances that I have bearing damage etc? Should I drop the pan& clean the screen? TIA John
 
#14 ·
If your seeing anything metal in the form of shiny silver like slivers you've probably had a bearing let go or have the beginning failure of a bearing. If it's failed you'll know becuase it'll sound terrible.....like a sledgehammer from inside your block.