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Interesting. Did they charge much for it? I'd be curious to see what my oil looks like...been running M1 10W40 High mileage for two years, but right now I've got Rotella 5W-40 I think? Sleepy7666 would know for sure...

So the place you used has seen some Saabs before then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i just used blackstone, its 25 bucks, add 5 if you want a TBN to see the degradation of additives.

if i get a chance ill send in my dads 07 9-3 M1. there is a lot of discussion on BOTI as to why Mobil 1 seems to constantly show extremely high iron levels.

either way that shit will never touch any of my engines anyway so.
 

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I really ought to look up some of that stuff and see what it all means.

Why the M1 hate? I haven't had issues, but I've also never had the oil analyzed. I had been wanting to try something new anyways...pretty happy with this Rotella T5 synth or whatever it is.
 

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So this oil analysis tells you what? I don't see before values? The only benefit I can see from oil analysis is the bottom section and to see if some bearings are failing (b/c the ppm would shoot up).

I wouldn't start hating on M1. I've used it before and probably will again. It's oil and I'm sure Mobil has more scientists/engineers studying wear properties than people using a $20 oil analysis.

I try and avoid the oil debates because it's hellishly complicated. Chemical composition doesn't give you the actual compounds that are present in the oil. One would have to 'burn' off the polymers (w/o oxidizing the metals), to see what the hell is actually in the oil. Also, are the detergents acting as sufficient surfactants because of some high metal content? I mean this is why oil companies spends/spent millions developing new formulas. Take this with a grain of salt because I'm sure a polymer scientist, who is familiar with oil development, could provide a more scientific explanation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
So this oil analysis tells you what?
actual zinc content, detergent content, and any fuel or coolant contamination, excessive metal wear etc.

Mobil 1 is no longer even an SM class oil, they voluntarily lowered there zddp content i favor of being able to be used in new factory cars for lower emissions to go with a quantity over quality business model. furthermore they have yet to come forward with an explanation as to why sample after sample comes back with alarmingly high lead content.

the worst part being there viscosity's do not hold up. but go ahead, run a plain m1 for 5-6k miles on a car with no warranty.

certain turbo companies have also started voiding warranties if they find out you run mobil oil, because it is destroying both journal and ball bearings after heat breakdown.
 

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I love these oil debates. I run M1 in either 15-50 or 10-40 HM, but I'd be open to try a new oil any time.

Saabkid37 - I get the whole "quantity over quality" thing. GM started making Dexron (red) coolant with the claim it lasted 100,000 miles just to land gov't support and funding in the interest of "going green". truth is, the shit has been proven to eat away at intake and head gaskets and will never last 100k miles.

Just an example though. My 04 2500 has near 200K and the head gaskets are fine and the coolant is cherry-ish red. ??

One time my buds and I drove a Cherokee 4.0 around a junkyard for 45 minutes with no oil in it at all and it kept going and going. We actually got bored and just left it. My 2001 gets regular 10-30 because im cheap and it'll sitill go 300k/ :cool:

The lack of Zinc in newer oils has also been the blame for many 4.0 engines wearing cams prematurely. As far as I know, the Jeep 4.0 was one of the last flat tappet cams in production.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the zinc content was originally a worry for the flat tappets, but in general is important to wear protection of the entire engine. i didnt do a tbn so i dont know how far the additives had broken down otherwise.

as an aside, porsche and bmw has dropped many weights of mobil1 from there approval list due to the changes (30 and 40 weights), 0w40 is the "european formula" and maintains an SJ rating ad is the only mobil1 that is porsche factory approved anymore.

scarily enough, the M1 10w30 which would be the most common weight used on a saab, is the most effected with all the changes.

my recommendation if you like M1 is to only run the extended performance and use a normal 3-5k change interval as those still have acceptable additive packages, personally it will never touch a motor in my household, as there are 100 better choices.

i was thinking of switching to amsoil, but they dont have a weight id like.
 

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I run the euro formulat 0-40 M1 but when it's scarce I have put in 5-40. Good to know that its inferior, I'll never put it in again.

I've been meaning to try royal purple which i hear is amazing, but too much $$$ and i cant find a 40 weight locally.
 

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I never had my oil analyzed with the ng900 but I switched to Shell Rotella 5w40 based on the overwhelmingly good oil reports on Bob Is the Oil Guy on almost every car it is run in and I can say it let my ng900 run noticeably smoother and was simply awesome.

I might even run it in the Z at some point but my current Redline 5w30 is one of the best for the VQ37HR engines as per bobistheoilguy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I run the euro formulat 0-40 M1 but when it's scarce I have put in 5-40. Good to know that its inferior, I'll never put it in again.

I've been meaning to try royal purple which i hear is amazing, but too much $$$ and i cant find a 40 weight locally.
the question is why in the northeast your running a 0 weight.

christian - yes the rotella has pretty good standards as some of the international diesel standards are tighter/more strict than gasoline.
 

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the question is why in the northeast your running a 0 weight.

christian - yes the rotella has pretty good standards as some of the international diesel standards are tighter/more strict than gasoline.
Totally agree. Being from CT I have never run anything less than 5w30.

I actually have been running RP for a few years now. I switched from M1 after all the reports of people having issues with it. I have never had an issue with it and after the first change from M1 to RP I found that it did a better job as tiny fragments came out in the oil and never again after that.
 

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What's wrong with running a "0w"? I thought that was just the rating for the winter months. Wouldn't a lower 0w allow you get oil flow up to speed quicker during a cold start this time of year? I know that once the 0w oil reaches higher temperatures, it has a tough time 'lubricating' (for lack of a better word) adequately compared to something of a higher weight. But, I don't see an issue for just normal driving.
 

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I've got a Blackstone bottle filled up from my recent oil change a couple weeks ago.

It's M1 0w-40 and came from my Viggen. The oil was in for 3000 miles, with 80k overall miles on the car. This was the first oil change I had to do with my Vig (recent purchase). I stuck it in my desk drawer intending to send it out, and forgot.... until I read this thread. It's going in today!

Did you do the TBN? Is that valuable (worth the extra $10)?? I'll be able to post my results when I get them back.....

The reason I used 0w-40 is that in my previous 9-3ss that what I always used with never an issue....figured the ecopower would be ok with it too. Damn i should start reading those looonggg oil threads.
 

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What's wrong with running a "0w"? I thought that was just the rating for the winter months. Wouldn't a lower 0w allow you get oil flow up to speed quicker during a cold start this time of year? I know that once the 0w oil reaches higher temperatures, it has a tough time 'lubricating' (for lack of a better word) adequately compared to something of a higher weight. But, I don't see an issue for just normal driving.
That was my reasoning as well, and the fact that it's a 40-wt compensates for the higher temps...
 
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