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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there such a thing? I see rebuild kits for older 9000 models, but have been hunting all day for rebuild kits for later 9000 models.

tia
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

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I would stay away from the Scantech.

Slave cylinder....I'd go with OEM if you can find one.
 

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Is there such a thing? I see rebuild kits for older 9000 models, but have been hunting all day for rebuild kits for later 9000 models.

tia
As far as i could find: NO kits for the later master cyls and the while Later slave does have a rebuild kit it's surprisingly pricey from the dealers (but it's Genuine parts)
It's proven 'better' to rebuild an OEM slave than fit an aftermarket unit
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I received a new master cylinder in the mail today, and I'll be messing with it in a little bit. Any tips/tricks to removing the old master cylinder and fitting the new one? I can't find the stupid Haynes manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nevermind... now I see the flex line is leaking.

Time to order that fucking thing too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, got the flex line in a while ago, and have been bleeding the line for the last 2 hours. From all the reading I've done on this site, and SaabCentral, the generally accepted way to bleed the system was with a pressure bleeder.

I don't have one, and can't get one.

So I bought the vacuum bleeder. It is the hand-pump MightyVac (sp?). It only worked at pulling out some air bubbles, and about a cup and a half of fluid. No pressure on the pedal at all.

Then I tried the trick with a long screwdriver, where you just pry the slave back a bit, then pump the pedal, and repeat. It's working.

However, I feel that I may have to replace the master as well. After pushing back the slave and pumping the clutch pedal, the first pump is very weak (low pressure) however by the third or forth pump the pedal has full pressure.

I'm gonna keep doing this till I fall asleep or give up due to hunger. I'm tired of driving a Hemi Grand Cherokee that gets 13mpg.


tldr; Even after replacing the clutch flex line (master to slave flex line) it is still possible to bleed the system without anything other than a long screwdriver.
 

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a cheap disposable plastic 2oz syringe makes for a Very good (imo Better) substitute for a Mitey Vac. Attach a hose the the end of the syringe and you can eithe: . You can also using a Wine making shop rubber bung with a hole in it's centre, fitted to the top of the Brake fluid reservoir, using the Syringe as an effective pressure setup.. Pressure bleed the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's mostly working now. I can drive, and shift. Hope I make it to work in the morning, and back at night in all the crappy traffic.
 

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for the clutch Ive gravity bled it with good success. all I do is get a piece of hose on the bleeder and the other end in a bottle of fluid. Once the majority of bubbles are out get a second set of hands; open the bleeder with the hose still attached and have your friend depress the pedal and keep it down. Close the bleeder and pull the pedal up; this has always gotten me a very good pedal feel
 
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