Control arm bushings, rear sway bar bushings, top motor mount.

Strut brace will take some vibration out of the dash and keeps the front of the car from flexing as much. You'll notice some difference.

Welcome to tsl!

 

I have also had really good success with a poly transmission mount. Some people find the vibration it causes to be too much. I dont really notice it, and the vibration that is added goes away after the car is above 900-950rpm. It vastly improved the shifting as well.

 

For me the poly trans mount was ok...till I installed a non-oem clutch.

 

Hey there,

Here's the setup I have on my 9k Aero, and I feel it's the best medium I can find thus far:

-1 poly upper motor mount (the one on the engine, not in the dogbone, dogbone is OE)
-Poly transmission mount
-Poly control arm bushings (HUGE difference, no more torque steer!)
-Poly rear sway bar bushings (helps reduce understeer)
-Poly front sway bar drop link bushings (tighter front end, better steering response)
-Genuine Saab strut tower brace (tightens things up even more in the front, less roll)

Photos here:

http://saabpics.com:3000/gallery2/v...2/v/Chadwick/94aero/Repair/Suspension/?g2_statusId=xb1ebe6db&g2_navId=x1b4b10e2

The car feels much better and the handling is ridiculously responsive. The big item that made the handling what it is was the bilstein HD's... they almost make it too harsh, but the feeling is very alive and correct to the road. With the aero suspension kit, I wouldn't be too worried about overharshing things with poly, all you're going to do is make the car respond better and feel tighter.

I keep the drop link bushings, sway bar bushings, and control arm bushings on the shelf here at the shop, if you'd be interested in purchasing any feel free to PM me.

Take care!

-Chad
Stg4 9k Aero

 

Thanks. I was actually handed a tsl business card at a stop light by someone in a 900 after we linked up on the road for a little blast through the country. So it was a nice little Saab moment on the road that led me here.
It seems like nobody is recommending the front sway bar bushings, only the drop link bushings. Does the balance of the car improve more by just having the rear poly bushings?
Also, are all these bushings reasonable DIY replacements?

Thanks,
Andrew

 

The reason you don't want the front sway bar bushings is it negates any real effect you'll get from installing the rears.

All the bushings are reasonably easy DIY replacements.

 

I need all of the poly bushings for the motor/trans mounts.

 

There are only three. One on the alternator bracket, one on the passenger side inner fender, one on the transmission.

 

The poly trans mount makes a world of difference, shifting is greatly improved and I didn't really get any increased vibration. Maybe a little, but not enough to make me think it's a negative side effect.

Mcrowley is exactly right about the fronts, just replace them with OE rubber and they will be fine. In the hunt for the perfect under/oversteer balance, there's no place for them.

Take care,
-Chad

 

Thanks for the info. I was having trouble finding out why certain bushings were recommended and other were not. Looking at the Elkparts site they list engine upper torque arm front and rear bushings. Do I want the front one?

Thanks,
Andrew

 

You want the one that fits on the alternator bracket(upper motor mounts), if you do them both, it tends to create vibration. I had both and swapped the one out by the firewall with an OEM one. The bushings are interchangable. Recommend that you buy in the US, easier to ship and lower cost. Chad is listing them, kcsaab has them and the ones at eeuroparts also work just fine.

--Oliversexpedition

 

Yes, just the front one (alternator bracket).

There are other alternatives to ordering from elkparts and paying ridiculous shipping costs. Try kcsaab.com. Call and ask for Brad.