Yeah for some reason autozone employees panic if you ask for a specific part by name. Or they just give you a blank stare for a few seconds and start with the "What year..." routine.
You might be able to find them somewhere, often times they won't have the correct type in NGK application and will try to sell you a motorcraft because they have them in stock. To me, it's not worth my time going to what will probably be several different parts stores trying to find the correct plug, and perhaps failing in the end. Don't you have some other things you also need from eeuroparts that will amount to the free shipping rate?
And gap them at either the factory spec or what ever the tuner of the car recommended, regardless them being "pre-gaped" or not. Do not trust pre-gaped plugs, check em.
You can go to one of the local advanced autoparts and ask them to order them if they dont have them in stock, they usually come the next day. I usually go to the one on salem st in dover off rt 10. Theres also the one on 46 in denville.
I got the default ES and not ES-11's which I think is the gap of 1.1mm. I always find it a good practice to double check the gaps of any plugs I put in, pre-gapped or not.
I posted it on Bimmerforums first, so far no luck.
Found it via google:
When replacing the spark plugs it's important to check following:
- First Allow 30 seconds for the module to power down then remove the electrical plug to ensure your safety.
- Always use resistor type NGK spark plugs. All Saabs equipped with DI cassettes have been specified with resistor type NGK plugs
- Verify the correct gap at the electrode (1.0mm -1.1mm)
- Check For oil leakage from coil assemblies. This would indicate a failed DI assembly.
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