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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im having a PCV fist fight today...my engine wants to play games with me...so anyway, does anyone have any idea why my timing chain gears would make noise when the small hose attached to the crank case with the check valve is installed ??? When I remove the hose the gears quiet right down...WTF is the best words for this ;)
Hose # 9 on this page
http://www.thesaabsite.com/95/95emissions.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update...I am modifying the Crank Case Vent system and will add photos...I went with the 04+ system including drilling a hole in the oil pan and adding an extra vent hole...I may be the first to do this...can't take full credit I used the diagram from Angry Kitchen to modify the system. I already installed the 04+ Throttle Body
 

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I just installed update 6 kit and replaced all of the hoses (150$ per car as I had to get some of the hoses from stealrship)...why do u need the 04+ Throttle body out of curioisty. Also I doubt that PCV system will fix the low oil pressure problem. If u keep driving with low oil pressure ur engine gonna fry some pistons.

Also a good saab mechanic told me that one of the signs of oil sludge issues is when u take a hard turn left or right u can get the low oil light flicker warning, the issue occurs on all of the cars that had sludge problems. the wears the issue the easier it is to get the light on (in one of the cars they did it oil light would come on when he would accelerate, it had a TON of sludge...) of course this method only applies when ur oil level is not low...

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, I agree low oil pressure is dangerous...I already had an 04+ throttle body on my car...mine died recently...the oil pressure issues were caused by vacuum pressure blowing into the crankcase and pushing oil off the cams gears and chain...I must have had something messed up anyway I am installing a new timing chain set as soon as it comes in from thesaabsite...I will probably do the oil pump this winter, from what I understand the earlier oil pumps were outsourced by Saab and the build quality was really bad...seems to be fine so far
http://www.saabpros.com/saab/nines/articles/nines_290.pdf
 

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Oh really. Intresting read. Sigh if my oil pump goes out Im parting out my car...I wish it was external so it would be easy to replace but thats never gonna happen >.< just gonna pray mine doesnt go out >.> Good luck on ur pump replacment.
 

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Could u link me to a guide? I thought u had to pull the engine to swap it out ^.^ Well Im plannign to drop the oil pan at 100k miles anyway so I will swap out the pump and thermo then. but till then I want to install a larger oil cooler do you know of any guides for that ? Thanks.
 

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On a 2.3 9-5, it's directly behind the crank pully.
You can get to it through the passenger wheel well.
Remove the plastic belt cover, remove the crank pully bolt, (impact wrench and 27mm socket) remove the pully, remove the snap ring,(need a large pair of snap ring pliers) grab the oil pump cover with pliers, wiggle it out, then use some stiff wire to get behind the pump gears and pull them out.
Replace the gears and cover with new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I did the seals last year in the winter...other than the mess caused by all the sand built up under the car...it was really easy. Try and keep everything really clean...dont stress too much about sludge...if you pull the valve cover off and it is clean, you probably dont have sludge, if you know the common person you know why the engines had sludge problems...idiots that change their oil every year...

http://www.serioussaab.co.uk/Procs_pages/proc_pages/p_chain.html
 

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@cking 1975. U gonna swap the timing chain with engine still in the car! you defently need to post pictures as you work through that!

@gbest. I ran 20W50 regular oil with 3k mile changes for last 20 k miles my father did oil changes every 5-6 k on regular 20W50 oil for 10k miles and we have no idea of how oil was changed for 46k miles of the cars life. So chances are there is sludge. but hopefully its not gonna kill the car untill I have to do the clutch. Oil pressure gage and possible oil temp gage gonna go in soon too so I will have better idea of how the cars oil system is doing. I plan on eather saving-up 2000-3000$ and giving the car a shop that I trust at about 100k miles (its at 74k right now) and making them do a clutch change, possibly oil pump change and oil pan drop to clean out any sludge and some other things. or doing it myself. all depends on the money and if I have a place to do it at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The only timing chain job I am doing is rolling in a master link chain, replacing the tensioner, and the top nylon guide...my engine has 160K miles on it and these engines are cheap so that is insane to pay someone 1200.00 to pull the engine to replacing the timing chain, guides, clean the oil pan, etc...you can put the chain in without removing the engine, but that looks like you could damage motor mounts or something else on the engine pushing it to the side with a 2x4, in addition I am tired of beating my body up for this car :)

I bought my car with 85K miles on it back in 2004, and it did not have any sludge build up...if your car had 46K you probably dont have sludge...why did he use 20W-50 ? I really recommend 0-40W Mobile 1 Synthetic for cleaning out the engine...I would not worry too much about the oil pump, pretty much all these items fail when the engine oil turn to tar (so to speak)...pull the valve cover and if you do not see any tar or burnt oil, your engine is fine...also you can let the car idle and stick the tip of the screw driver on the valve cover and put your ear to the other end listen for anything that sounds odd, like excessive chain noise, etc...
Do you see the dark appearance of the top of the head..not good...burnt oil do to lack of oil pressure/flow in the engine...basically baked oil is whats for dinner...


This is pretty normal for an engine with 50K+ Miles...you will almost always see a little burning on the cam gears...not sure why other than they may getter hotter than the rest of the parts in the upper head...
 
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