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Discussion Starter #1
I've been reading what I can find on here and just want to confirm everything that I'll need and the order I'd do it in.



That's the worst spot on the bumper I picked up and I've read PerkJ's tutorial on fixing his front bumper so I should be good there.

Supplies needed:
1. 400 grit sandpaper
2. 800 grit sandpaper
3. primer with flex additive
4. adhesion promoter
5. scratch puddy

Steps:
1. Sand down entire bumper with 400 grit
2. Apply the scratch puddy and allow to cure
3. Sand down entire bumper with 800 grit via wet sanding
4. Spray with adhesion promoter
5. Spray primer and then sand again with 800 via wet sanding.

I would guess I could do this prep work for pretty cheap correct? I don't have the money for the paint but I could do all of this work to the one side skirt and the wing I have at the moment with the rear bumper in the meantime.
 

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Thats all that you need, it looks like you are all set and know what you are doing. I would say (im not sure if it matters to you) that you could even go to 1500 grit on the primer, just to make sure its as smooth as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So another question.

While I was glancing at Auto Zone I couldn't find any primer that stated it had a flex additive. Gut feeling says I need that in there along with the paint.

So whats a good brand of black primer that I can get in a spray can? Links would be appreciated. Paint as well just in case I choose to spray it to save money.

Next question is this. Self etching primer? What is "self etching". The can didn't really explain it. I had a choice of self etching or sandable primer.

For textured paint I'll be wanting to go black I think instead of the gray. What is a good brand.

Final question, and my gut feels as though it'll be a no, I've got a wagoner power sprayer somewhere that hasn't been used in years. Bought it during my eagle scout project 8 years ago and only used it to apply a maritime grade stain on some wooden benches I made. I cleaned it out as best I could with mineral spirits when I was done. Is this something I could use to apply primer and paint and still look nice if I bought the paint in primer in cans?
 

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Discussion Starter #4


Got started tonight. Storm rolling in killed my ability to work outside with the dual halogen stand setup. Not enough room in my garage to wet sand efficiently. The plan is to get the main areas first and then go back on the smaller sections.

Is it possible to go with a more agressive grit to speed this up without damaging the panel? Just curious.
 

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I did some body work the other day under my rear wheel well's with a dremmel tool with a tungsten bit to grind the rust out, then use about 5 sanding bits per side, changing from the tungsten bit to sand bit to make sure all the rust was out of it, used a rust --> primer converter, then sanding that shit off, then rough hand sanded, bondo, dremmel sand, hand sand, prime, wet sand, prime, wet sand, prime, wetsand, paint, paint, paint, 1200 grit sand, clear coat, clear coat, polish, wash, wax, wax, BEER x6
 

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I did some body work the other day under my rear wheel well's with a dremmel tool with a tungsten bit to grind the rust out, then use about 5 sanding bits per side, changing from the tungsten bit to sand bit to make sure all the rust was out of it, used a rust --> primer converter, then sanding that shit off, then rough hand sanded, bondo, dremmel sand, hand sand, prime, wet sand, prime, wet sand, prime, wetsand, paint, paint, paint, 1200 grit sand, clear coat, clear coat, polish, wash, wax, wax, BEER x6
usually you don't want to wax the paint right after you've finished the base and clear coats, the clear may be dry but it hasn't fully cured, and putting a coat of wax over top of it does not allow the paint to breath anc cure properly. body shops are able to wax immediately after they paint because they bake the paint and speed up the curing process.

also, i would not try to use a more aggressive grit to try to speed things up, with body work patience is key. and when wet snading primer i would not go any finer than 900 grit.
 

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Self etching has a chemical in it that will eat into the metal, and lots are zinc based. Great for small jobs.
Go here: https://www.paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/place_order2.cgi if you have the time and order their flex primer and the spray can with the color of your car,clear and sand paper if you need it. I have used this on my silver viggen, mirrors and a few spots on the front bumper and it matched perfect. What's great is that it's cheap, easy to apply and if ya screw up, just sand the clear out and buff.
Do not wash, wax or put a cover over the car until 3 weeks after you do any paint work.
 

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Thats all that you need, it looks like you are all set and know what you are doing. I would say (im not sure if it matters to you) that you could even go to 1500 grit on the primer, just to make sure its as smooth as possible.
900, and especially 1500 paper on the primer is overkill and dangerous because it could present adhesion problems during the actual painting because it will make the surface too smooth...remember, you're painting plastic. If I were nahum, I would wet sand two coats of primer with 600 and leave it. You get smoothness and gloss in the quality of the clear coat. Wet sanding the clear coat after it's cured with 1500 or 2000, then doing compounding, then wax= glass/mirror/orgasm finish.

Just for reference, during the prep for my viggen bumpers, I did the following:

1. Wax/grease remover. Sprayed with prepsol and cleaned thoroughly.
2. Sand entire thing with 320, making sure to get everything level
3. Clean again, dry, a coat of high build SEM primer over the entire thing.
4. I used an autobody product called Kombi putty to fill in tiny scrapes or flaws. You can use whatever filler you like though.
5. I sanded the entire thing again with 320, making sure the tiny fill spots and primer were all level.
6. Wash, clean, dry. One coat of high build primer.
7. Wet sand with 600 wet grit.
8. Clean, dry, add final coat(s) of primer.

My process was long and some steps could probably be combined, but I was anal. I also did not have to use an adhesion promoters. I'm sure you would if you sanded as fine as others suggested though. Remember, prep is insanely important though! My results speak for themselves too, the bumpers turned out like glass.

Is it possible to go with a more agressive grit to speed this up without damaging the panel? Just curious.
I used 180 or 220 on areas along the bottom of my bumpers that had some scrapes BEFORE I started spraying any primer to speed up the process. Sanding with 320 or 400 in areas like that will take FOREVER and you'll go through tons of paper. As long as you sand the area thoroughly afterwards with 320-400, you shouldn't see any sanding marks whatsoever. Also, good high build primer helps alot.

Good luck nahum.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nearly done with the skirt......ran out of paper here at 3:30 in the morning :mrgreen:




All I have left is the mounting rail and the very underside where the lift points are. Not looking forward to the lift point sections. I'm beginning to realize that I'm going to need lots of paper when I do the rear bumper.........Enjoying the work though.

Also earlier in the day......



Points to whomever figures out what was parked on my passenger side. Every saturday night in Noblesville the car guys come out and park on the square. Its nice considering that the local ice cream parlor is right behind my car across the street :mrgreen:. The full wash and wax took my afternoon up.
 

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Damn.. I was liking the yellow and black schema after it grew on me. Leave the Yellow on the spoiler and strip it with black a la PaSaabs strips on his car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That wing will probably get hit last. Part of the reason for it is because it won't separate from the deck base and also snapped an extractor (but I was pretty sure the extractor was deep enough in that it shouldn't be holding any part to the base).

Sadly no progress tonight on anything. The woman decided to complain about me wanting to do what I wanted to do instead of spending time with her family for fathers day...........I mean I am a dad too......where was my time ;).
 

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Discussion Starter #12





Ok, so final question on this skirt. Do I have to absolutely get all the paint off this rocker before priming and paint or will I regret not getting it all down the road. For whatever reason the lower section of the rocker goes through the sand paper pretty quick and its coming off slow as non other in this section. Will it be fine to apply the primer over this old paint. In the end this section of the rocker won't be visible unless the car is under a lift. Still need to clean it with mineral spirits but I don't have any of that or the primer on hand so its not a concern yet.

TIA. Rear bumper time.
 

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no, you do not need to remove all of the old paint, just as long as you have feathered the edges well enough where it will not show through your primer and base coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
paint the car to match the wing spoiler!

;)
Ha if I was going to do that I was thinking something along the lines of Brawn GP. Pretty sure a white viggen with acid yellow accents would look pretty sweet.

Don't get me wrong, I love MCY viggens (well the color in general), but if I was going to be going through all the work just to do that then I'd do something custom.
 

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Still need to clean it with mineral spirits but I don't have any of that or the primer on hand so its not a concern yet.
Mineral spirits is oil based, so I don't think you want to use that as a cleaner/degreaser for automotive paint, unless you are going to use wax and grease remover before applying any paint/primer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Doug. Came across the wrong thing then in my search. Will switch to something else.
 

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In the words of borat, "niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice."

As for a cleaner, prepsol works great and is pretty cheap. I've also used lacquer thinner before as well, but never on plastic, so I'm not sure how well it would verk.
 
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