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OPINIONS: go beyond stage IV or stereo?

3.9K views 63 replies 22 participants last post by  Jameson  
#1 · (Edited)
hey guys, I'd like your opinions, if you wouldn't mind sharing them.

My immediate plans are to purchase Nick's turbo inlet pipe, and one of MPs rare delivery pipe's that I have made arrangements to buy. And of course the clutch and headgasket replacement sooooon.

BUT, after that.....

Should I go for more power or look to other areas?

The power mods would be a td04hl18t/6cm2 turbo with volvo green injectors and a retune. That would be a stage 5 or so. Considering I am at stage IV now with 240/290 at the wheels, and I hope the new intake system puts me up to 250/300.

Now that would cost be say 250 for a rebuild condiditon 6cm2 turbo, plus $300 for the rebuild. I could sell my vig turbo now for about 250, so that's 300. Plus 300 for injectors, and 500 for the tune. So total cost is 850.

Call this plan A.

Plan B: Leave the power where it is now, and put money into my stereo. I have been thinking about this for a while. How much I do really depends on how I settle my headunit debate. I really don't like the look of many aftermarkets, but I know its not worth really good speakers if you're going to retain the quality-limited factory headunit. Rough plans for now would be a good set of Boston Components, and 6x9's, an amp for them, and a JL 12" w6 with its own amp. I want the sub to have a neat and tidy enclosure that is removable for track days or whatever. I plan on about 300 for the sub, 300 for its amp, 250 for components, 150 for the rear speakers, and 300 for that amp. So total there is 1300. I can do the install myself as well as the encloure, but plan on 100 for materials. So total is 1400 for plan b.

Plan C: Get new wheels and tires. I would get 18s for the summer and keep my 17s kingons with either good all-seasons or snow tires for winter use. The 18s I've been thinking about are the ones my car raced on. They are ronals, but I don't know the model. They're 150 per wheel. So that would be 600 for wheels, and another 500 for those tires. I'd need snows for the 17s, so another 500. But, I need new snow tires for my 15s anyways, but they're cheaper tires, at about 300 total. And I'll need new summer tires next year, and that's about 400. So all-in-all, the upgrade would cost me 900.

Plan D: Exterior bling-a-ling. I'm thinking mold in my body kit as well as cut down and mold the intercooler opening. That has been quoted to me with new paint at 750. And I want a viggen spoiler, and rear window spoiler. So from the lead on the spoiler I have, 300, and yankton's roof spoiler, 350, brings the plan d total to 1400.

So, I'd like opinions, or at leats maybe an order you guys would do these plans. Keep in mind my overall uses and ambitions for the car. It is at 120k miles now and I drive it daily over some less than perfect roads in downtown boston. It is parked at school a lot, or at work, at an attended lot. I go to school with a lot of rich pricks in expensive cars, so I do like to be able to show them up once in a while. But at this point, as long as they aren't faster than an v8 s4, evo, sti, or less-than-perfectly drive m3, I'm fine. I would like the car to get me through until fall of 07 when I plan to buy an SUV or something for winter use and to ease the miles on the Saab.

That should do it. I do value some of your opinons as there is some diversity here. People value speed, and looks, and overall quality pretty equally.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Well having gone down a similar road with another car, I'd probably go with B. You can easily take all that stereo stuff out and use it in a new car (or SUV) when you get out of school. When you get outta school you might find a better car and decide to trade your current one in...thats what happened with me. Also, forget about wheels/tires/expensive bodywork when parking at a college campus. I had near perfect paint and bodywork on my previous car that looked like absolute shit after 2 years in college parking lots...dents, door dings. Fuckin people have no respect for your property.

When you get outta school and have a REAL job then you can dump a LOT more money into the power/appearance stuff and hopefully have that thing garaged in the winter months. Who knows...maybe a GT turbo instead of the 18t? You could just add another option to do nothing and save some $$$ for the winter beater...thats my next purchase.
 
#9 ·
But what is your vote Jameson? You are one person in particular I'd like to hear from as you have a balance of some of these choices in your car.
 
#11 ·
No its on top of the 10/10 increse I get from the intake system I do anyways. My point is that the car will be at 250 and 300 at the wheels.
 
#12 ·
stromer said:
But what is your vote Jameson? You are one person in particular I'd like to hear from as you have a balance of some of these choices in your car.
The way I look at it.......a good stereo you are going to use quite a lot. You already have some performance and with that much more, you arent going to take advantage of it THAT often. If you do you are going to wind up with more problems anyway :p

So I am all about performance, but you have gone that route already. I say do the stereo this time around.
 
#13 ·
I love listening to music - but with 100000 on my car as of tonight, there is just to much creeking, cracking and squeeking for me to justify dropping 1k+ into stereo equipment.

Personally Im all about go...then show...audio falls at the bottom of my list and as long as my stereo plays and sounds semi decent - Im golden. I LOVE the looks of your car right now Seth, you know that, so I cast my vote for the new turbo/tune combo (and not just because I want to buy your TD-04 :D) OR getting your kit molded. Personally I think the kit looks fine from any distance, though having it molded would add the final touch to your car.

-Ryan
 
#14 ·
I like my car to be balanced. You really don't have to invest too much to have a decent sounding stereo system. You can even keep the stock sound system if you want and still get exceptional sound, though if do opt for one get a good one not some flashy pile. I recommend alpine, higher end that gives you 4v pre outs and a nice 5-7 band equalizer. I'm an audiophile.

Here is a site that I got my subs and amp off of:

www.allcarstereo.com

Right now I have:

2 Alpine Type S - 10'' Subs ($75 each)
An Alpine V-12 Amp ~300 Watts RMS ($220)
An Alpine head unit I can't ever remember the model number lol ($300)

Going to Install:

Alpine 6 1/2'' Type R Components in door ($140)
--Tweeter in the A-pillar or the Mirror cases
Alpine Amp MRP-T220 ~40 Watts RMS x 2 ($85)

Wiring, Dash kits, ect = ~$200

Total: $~1,075 for a much better than average ricer/luxury car sound system

It's not competition grade, but you can crank this system and you won't hear distortion.
 
#15 ·
Well, do you like to rock out?

I love to blast my music on long trips and love the rumble of the subs, it gets you in a good mood.

But personaly, I think you should go after the rare commodities....like roof spioler, pedestal spoiler , black pearl grille, Cf shift knob......Cause that will set you apart.

your already at stage 4, thats enough to keep up with the big dogs, so why not look good doing it?
 
#16 ·
i'd go for more power, you can only listen to the music so loud or it ruins the quality of the sound, with most subs it drowns out the high end. i'm the kind of person who would rip out the stereo. the best way to listen to music it through a good stereo at home! also Plan D sounds pretty cool
 
#17 ·
Well my ÂŁ0.02 would be go with plan A :cool:as you dont want a stereo to drown out the sound of the engine:( must be showing my age loud music or faster car???????? car wins
 
#18 ·
I am not familiar with your car but if you do not have any suspension stuff done I would do that. Rear strut brace, 6pt subframe brace, front sturt tower brace, & all the poly bushings to reduce torque steer & finally springs/shocks. Again, I do not know what you have done to the car

Been told great things about the inlet pipe & delivery pipe.

Thus I would do a A/B combo

inlet & delivery pipe with new speakers. When $$ is willing then add a amp/head/sub if you want it at a later date.
 
#19 ·
I agree with GM - although I guess you've already got suspension and brake upgrades?

Plan B thereafter. You don't want 6*9s. Get some good quality small ones, with separate tweeters, an amp and a sub. 1*10" in a sealed enclosure with a high quality driver in it is light (ish) and can make the mirrors bounce if you need it.

Add a head unit if you feel like it.
 
#20 ·
Well,the -18t will bring you up by how much power and torque?I think it will make you like 340 bhp.If that isn't enough then do the stereo and spoiler or whatever and wait on the turbo till you can get the one you really want/need to make the power you're looking for.
 
#21 ·
dont even bother with rear speakers at all. If you want to listen to music, your in the drivers seat. you want a front stage.

At a concert do you face backwards to the stage? no, rear speakers only mess up imaging. So save your money there. The reason the sub can go in the back, is because bass is more omni directional, you cannot really tell where its coming from.

Get a nice componet front set, an amp for those and then a amp for the sub.

Or if your crazy like me, BI-Amp the components and each speaker gets it own amp channel.

I'd say get your HG issue sorted and your clutch, and then see how you feel about your stage 4 power.
 
#22 ·
Honestly Seth, I'd say shoot for the power. $850 for where you'll be in the end is sweet.

Stereo technology changes everyday, so what is the best now won't be the best tomorrow. That end of modding cars is all about keeping up with the joneses.

Your car looks awesome as it is now. But the the viggen spoiler might be that 'finishing touch'; its something I have thought about for my car too.

So, I would have to say part of A and part of D. If your numbers are right, you should be able to that and not break the bank at $1200 or so.
 
#23 ·
yup, do the power part. A
thats my vote. you can never have enough power. the amount of weight from a stereo system will kill any and all weight distrubition thats good about the car. the stereo in our cars are fairly good to start too, and wouldnt you rather listen to the engine???

and yes, a vig spoiler would look sick on your car and be a very good addition. and like blue said, you can do power and the spoiler at the same time, and not break the 1200 for the stereo.

my $0.02 is power, power and more power. plus a new tune is a lot cheaper for you than me, so i say part A & part D

Nick
 
#24 ·
the stereo's suck in our cars, at least my viggens stereo sure does. It's definantly worlds ahead of what my SPG came with but still crappy compared to a nice aftermarket system. Then again, not everyone can tell the difference between stereo stuff :)

I do completely agree though, adding a big heavy sub box drastically changes the weight distribution of the car thus I would do what someone else stated, just get a single 10 or 12 with a great amp & sub & it's all most people need. This really does not add a lot of weight, probably not a lot more then a spare tire actually :)