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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it's 6:40am.... I haven't left for school yet cause the 9000 WON'T Start - PLENTY of crank - just no gas.... crud. I'll hafta mess with it later (ISO-HEAT) or DRY GAS perhaps.... I'm waiting for my buddy to pick me up now. This SUCKS. I want a block heater. :evil: :roll: and it's not even in the negatives yet.... still 11 degrees out there! Damn Swedish car and not likeing cold - what is that?!
 

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Mine seems to be the same way lately but here it is -10. Block heaters are 26 bucks from the saab catalogue. I got one but havent installed yet
 

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ha, finally happened to you. time to get some dry gas ;) I don't think it's swedish cars that don't like the cold, I think it's the jetronic LH 2.2 that doesn't! :x
 

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Rob, a block heater is a little sealed coil that fits into one of the pre-cut openings in the block. (looks like a tiny version of those immersion heaters for tea) You plug it into an outlet in your car and keeps your oil from stiffening up too much.

It was -3 when I pulled into my driveway at midnight....I hope it starts when I need to leave for work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well - I checked the "Won't Start When Cold But Cranks" information on my schools "On Demand" Mitchell software and it says it could be 1 of 3 things - Mass Air Meter (replaced not long ago) the Cold Start Injector (I have one on an 87 9000???) or the Temperature Sensor in the block. When I get Home I will try and start it - if it fires up I am going to get a bottle of ISO-Heat into the tank for starters. Then I need to check the Cold Start equivlant if there is even such a device on my Saab (I didn't think there was) and Lastly I will unplug the Temp sensor and see if it starts and runs Rich (if it does then It's prolly the sensor not knowing the engine temp or thinking it's too cold....) Anyone who has more ideas/input would be helpful I don't want this to become a random issue every time it gets cold out. Anyways - That's it i guess for that.
For the block heaters - are there any that run off the cars Battery and don't need to be plugged in?? I don't really have an easy way of plugging one in if I had one installed (No driveway or garage) Thanks!
 

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you plug a “block heater” into the house, a 12 volt battery could not generate enough power to run one for more than about an hour and still start the car in the morning. there is no CSI (cold start injector) on any car with Bosch LH injection. The other thing it is talking about is the "NCT sensor" that is what feeds the ECU the information about what the current temperature of the engine is. I highly doubt that's the problem either, but it is worth a shot I guess. I have never been able to figure out exactly what my cold start issue is, and I have checked all these things. Read up in the bently on the info about checking the NCT sensor, if it's not putting out the correct resistance, time to change it. here are the things I would check-

Spark (make sure it is strong)
check to see that the injectors are firing using an LED plugged into one of the injector wires (MUST be an LED, not a small light bulb)
replace NCT sensor - this is located between the 4 runners on the intake manifold so it can sense the temperature in the center of the cylinder head.
Check ALL grounds and battery grounds including engine to body and battery to body grounds
jump the fuel pump relay, make sure it will run
listen for the fuel pump RUNNING WHILE CRANKING

if all these things are working, your wire harness is all that's really left that could be shot. What I think happens is that water gets into the sheathing and corrodes the wires. When it gets wet the water freezes and makes the resistance low enough that 12 volts can travel through the bad parts into other wires. this must REALLY confuse the ECU... so anyway if everything *seems* to be working but it still won't run, might be time to go get that 90 9000 ;)
 

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Mine starts fine, it was three degrees this morning. Its wierd though Ive never had that problem with any of my cars. Even my c900.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah - well got hom from school - went straight over to the car - got in and she fired right up like she should.... I think it IS the NCT sensor. I'll change it out for a known good one once I have one. Till then I'll just keep some hot water on hand to dump on it when it drops below 25 outside I think :p That might work....
 

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On my old Turbo Diesel mercedes I had a very cool feature and that was a built in block heater and a retractable coil cord that came out from under the passenger side bumber about 6 or 8 feet so I could get it to a plug or extension cord easily. Can't say I ever needed to use though being in Southern california. I will gladly trade you guys in the cold place 30 degrees of heat from here today for some of your cold weather!!! The SID in my 9-3 was reading 93 today on the way to work!! Too damn hot!! :oops:
 

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over here on the coast it's even colder when i went outside this morning before heading to school it was 4 degrees outside! 4!! with windchill weather.com said it felt like -10 degrees wtf! But my car started fine btw
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ugh - she did it again.... too damn cold to start,! I just "re-awoke" so I'll go mess with it again soon. I decided since the car didn't want to start - I wasn't gonna goto class :lol: (Like I had a choice)
Weather right now is 14 degrees (3 with the wind chill) :shock:
 

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I have a quick question. Is it possible that the fuel lines could be frozen ever? Cause when I start my car in the mornings, it's so slow to turn over, and then fuel gauge on my dash goes up and down real quick as I am trying to start it...Maybe I need to replace my fuel filter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i think it has something to do with that - but i do have a new fuel filter too - less then 20,000 miles on it. I need more Alcohol in the tank - i'm gonna pick up some "dry gas" today and put it in the tank - once it warms up - that seems to take care of it if it's in the tanks/lines. I can get a gallon for about $2.50 once i have a container to have filled up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well i had replaced the NTC sensor - and it helped - now if it's 15+ outside without a windchill she'll start on the first key turn, but with the windchill factors being below 0 - I still have no chance! If you haven't guessed it I'm now sitting at home rather then driving to school.... a familar scene for the two PA Saabers here. Damn Damn Damn - I want to know why it does this rather then throwing parts at it "guessing." It MIGHT be the engine harness - or in my car's case - the entire harness. Reasoning - over the years of wear, water has seeped into the wire casings and caused a ground/low current or no signal when frozen. Plus having a car which leaks like a damn barn is never good - and when the car has carpet pads which SAVE the water instead of drying out a car's floor - this only makes things worse. As we should all know Saab ran the harness inside the car along the floor.... bad idea when leaks are prone.... :oops: :roll: :evil: Rant aside - car cranks and crank and cranks it's heart out, but just can't get that engine to fire. BLAST! I'm going back to bed - it'll warm up and then start and I'll be on my way to work. :shock: :evil:
 

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wind-chill has nothing to do with temperatures objects that don't generate heat drop down to ;) when you have 15 degree wind hitting something that's 15 degrees at 50 mph, it will get down to... yes, 15 degrees :lol: when it hits something warm like a person they loose heat faster so it "feels" colder. Just letting you know, wind chill factor does not affect cars, only ambient air temperature will. last night it really didn't get below 20 at all, so it's getting worse.

having said that, it just seems to me that the NCT sensor was indeed NOT the problem as I originally thought. worth a shot anyway... so yes, I don't know what to tell you except this seems to be a VERY common problem with LH 2.2 Volvos and Saabs. I am gunna try replacing my wire harness today and see if that corrects my problem.


I am reduced to deducting that it has to be the wire harness because every other part in the car is new :lol:

warmer days are on the way ;)
 

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Hope you guys didn't do one of those "cool" free mod tricks to your car...bypassing the anitfreeze/coolant line on the throttle body housing.., pulling the insulation from the hood...you know the simple free mods to improve hp. :shock: :shock:

I'd say that fuel is either there or it's not...and after starting the car would probably just stumble and quit running completely.., but never hurts to replace the filter.

Just another thought, but any chance that the slow cranking is relative to vicosity rating of the oil used in the motor. Maybe looking at the specs of the oil will also help...or might be time to change it. Of course the starter is also an obvious reason.., but a frozen motor would most likely lead to a bad starter.
 
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