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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone installed an oil pan on a 9000 with the engine still in the car? Is there some trick to getting it on with the stupid return tube in place?

I'm at my wit's end trying to get this thing back together.

Top and bottom-front engine mounts are disconnected. Engine is jacked up from underneath. I can get the oil pan on if the damn oil return tube is pulled out from the crankcase.

Help.
 

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pull the half shaft carrier out also on the back of the block and it will slide right in if the engine is jacked up..... also take out the top motor mount to allow more movment

edit i see you did the top, you need to undo the rear engine mount and actually take the braket off the engine iirc... i may have done this once with out pulling the bracket off but i know i did it easyest with it off
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
edit i see you did the top, you need to undo the rear engine mount and actually take the braket off the engine iirc... i may have done this once with out pulling the bracket off but i know i did it easyest with it off
How do I get that mount off?

I did what the shitty Haynes manual said, and I just can't get the damn pan in. Fucking oil return tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I mean the actual mount off the engine block, not the motor mount itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
nm...

Got it in there last night. Had to pull out the downpipe, oil filter housing, loosen the rear mount off the block, jack up the engine under the crank pulley (insert a spacer under front lower engine mount), jack up engine under the flywheel (transmission was off for replacement).

Luckily I was able to get most of the car put back together last night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything is back together, but now the car won't start. It turns over, but won't fire up.

Suggestions?
 

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DI cassette unplugged.... (I do this every couple weeks after having a top end apart).

Make sure the fuel pump is running. (at very simplest if you have no instruments to test it with, crank it a bit and pull a plug and see if you smell fuel, or even easier squirt some starter fluid or brake cleaner into one of the vac lines at inlet manifold and see if it fires for a second).

Does the tach needle bounce up a touch while you're cranking it? If not make sure you didn't get the O2 sensor and crank sensor plugs mixed up (or forgotten, or tore CPS harness out taking the downpipe off or something crazy like that).

Best,
Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
DI cassette unplugged.... (I do this every couple weeks after having a top end apart).

Make sure the fuel pump is running. (at very simplest if you have no instruments to test it with, crank it a bit and pull a plug and see if you smell fuel, or even easier squirt some starter fluid or brake cleaner into one of the vac lines at inlet manifold and see if it fires for a second).

Does the tach needle bounce up a touch while you're cranking it? If not make sure you didn't get the O2 sensor and crank sensor plugs mixed up (or forgotten, or tore CPS harness out taking the downpipe off or something crazy like that).

Best,
Drew
DI is plugged in.

Fuel pump works; I can hear it priming when I turn the key to the ON position.

I'm gonna go check to see if the tach. moves at all when I crank it. I didn't unplug the rear O2 sensor at all, but I did unscrew the front one, it's back in though. I didn't tear any wires while doing the work.

Where is the CPS sensor wire plug?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DI is plugged in.

Fuel pump works; I can hear it priming when I turn the key to the ON position.

I'm gonna go check to see if the tach. moves at all when I crank it. I didn't unplug the rear O2 sensor at all, but I did unscrew the front one, it's back in though. I didn't tear any wires while doing the work.

Where is the CPS sensor wire plug?
Tach. needle doesn't move at all. What would be related to that?

I can hear a buzzing immediately after I switch the key to the OFF position. Is that the DI cleaning the plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Car hasn't run since the beginning of June.... 2 1/2 months this time.

Could the gas be bad? I've had my car sit for a month and it fired up fine.
 

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Since the tach isnt moving, check to see if the CPS is still plugged in.

Also, grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where is the CPS plug, and what grounds?
 

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CPS comes of the front of the engine (og9-3s at least, I would guess this is the same). It goes up the side and plugs in on the 9-3's with the same bunch that includes the O2 sensors.

Remember, thats og93 stuff. Prob different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
CPS is plugged in, grounds are fine (as far as I can tell).

How long does it take for 3/4 of a tank of 93 octane gas to go bad? Could that be a reason???

If yes, is there an additive that can unfuck it?
 

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Gas should be fine.

My 3-door sat for much longer with out starting and was ok.

So many cars sits with gas for longer than 3-6 months. Might not be great gas, but its gas. Should at least start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
K. I was hoping it would be as simple as bad gas.

I have no clue why it doesn't start. I'm supposed to drive to NH Sat. and my car doesn't start.

Shitty.
 

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Go over the basics. While you say the tach isnt bouncing while you're turning it over. double check to see if you get spark/injectors are firing.

If no spark or fuel, then your CPS may be dead. Or there still may be a ground missing somwhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How can a CPS just die? I didn't unhook it throughout the entire process.

I'm sure there's fuel... I can hear the pump running, so wouldn't that mean that the DI is good too?, as I understand that if one is bad, the other won't work.
 

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I was thinking somehow you may have bashed it or something.

But since you're getting fuel, your CPS is good. But not necessarily your DI is. Cant hurt to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No clue where my multimeter is. Drat.
 
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